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The transmission has nothing to do with it. It's the ICE itself that has a Specific Fuel Consumption curve. All internal combustion engines do. All transmissions are intended to allow the ICE to be moved around the SFC curve whilst delivering the required torque to the road wheels. CVTs significantly increase the options. HSD improves things further as it has the potential to offer complete freedom by making road wheel torque independent of the ICE. You can see this on a standard hybrid on the energy flow monitor sometimes. While maintaining a steady 60mph on a motorway the ECU will toggle between (ICE->wheels & battery) and (ICE->wheels)+(Battery->wheels) every minute or so. If it were more efficient to just use the ICE then it would. Instead it's almost as if it's trying be a series-hybrid but the small battery and lower power of the motor mean it can only approximate that. I'd assume that the PHEV is capable of the same but given the greater power available from the motor I'm not sure if such blending is useful. But there are several series-hybrid models on the road that mostly or even exclusively use the ICE purely to regenerate the battery. Thus whilst it sounds odd to go ICE->generator->battery->motor->wheels it is clearly an efficient way to operate for some vehicles and it seems unlikely that Toyota, with all its hybrid expertise has produced a vehicle for which that mode is available but offers poor efficiency.

Snap!! I do it all the time too. From what I have read, I believe you are right. (since the system stops looking for the key after a short while) 🤣🤣

Apathy

...all the more appalling... 😡

Farage was the only one who talked any sense to them!! Sadly, you need to be rude to force them to listen to sense!!

Car cannibals stripping the cars for chop shops, repairs to damaged vehicles, etc, due to parts shortages. Last year the Yaris, Fiesta, Corsa and Clio were all likely candidates. This type of crime is increasing.

Oh that's easy to explain! (why they are all so "well behaved") It's because they are all in a nice gravy train with mega perks alongside their bloated pay packet and so they are happy to simply rubber stamp approval to anything the commission put forward for voting on!!

Actually, having just used the built-in NAV for the first time in anger (as a try out) I am sort of changing my mind a bit towards it. If you zoom the map right in (and yes, it remembers between power cycles) and change the compass to direction of travel instead of constant North, it works quite well; albeit without displaying buildings or terrain, and, the turns in the HUD work well too!

Empathy

I am after a 69801-28020 Regulator for a Toyota master surf / lite ace Driver front door Can you help pleaseI have tried amayam as i tge part is on their web page but no longer in stock in japan . Any help be brill

That is absolutely shocking! Mindless morons who should get a job instead of doing crime like that!!

Topic moved to the Yaris forum.

Mine used to do this until I had the CVT oil changed. Then it was fine. I have been told it's a problem with the solenoids in the gearbox and the easiest cure is a reconditioned box at about £1200. As mine is ok for now I'll leave it.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cd1v7jn99gko 🥲

What sort of driving do you do for that? In the just over 2 years I've had mine I've only recorded a max of 430.

Hi All, Sorry, I am not car-savvy, hopefully someone has more insight... I had my radiator replaced on my 2003 Camry XLE (SKU: CSF 3143 Radiator). After 40min of driving though my car did not overheat, when I checked under the hood, coolant had exploded/splashed out. The reservoir tank did not deplete. From what I read, the radiator cap might need replacing, but it feels pretty secure and I felt pressure taking it off....not easy to take off to mention. Do I need to get a specific model ? Could there be something else? Secondly... the heat is only working on the driver's side, which I am guessing could be a clogged heater core? Thanks!

Quite likely, but I would expect that Toyota will already know this and incorporate it into the design of the hybrid engine control. If it is more efficient to run the engine at higher revs and/or higher torque and use the extra power to charge the battery then the hybrid control will likely be optimising this already in HEV mode when it is running the engine. In HEV mode, the engine is generally off at lower speeds/torques, the engine starts up when more power is required and while it is running it is used to charge the battery, so presumably running at a speed/torque combination optimal for efficiency. No it's more complicated because in HEV mode there will be periods when the engine is not running at all because there's little demand for torque to the wheels. Putting it into 'charge mode' forces the engine to run continually, so there's a question of how efficient is the engine during those periods when it's running mostly or purely to charge the battery, during those periods when it would otherwise have been shut off. The battery will likely have charging power limits to protect it, along with other possible limits in the transmission system, limiting the power input, so there's a separate question of can the engine still run at decent efficiency if all or most of the power is going to the battery? Or is it more efficient to charge the battery at times when the engine is running to also supply torque to the wheels, so at a higher total power, as in HEV mode.

Hardly do much motorway driving now and the fuel consumption figures are really amazing. During the summer and autumn months last year, I averaged 70 -72 mpg. However, throughout the winter which also included long periods of not being driven much, consumption fell to 64 mpg. In the last month I’ve increased my mileage substantially and after refuelling to day I’m now getting 74 mpg.

That may apply with a car with a conventional ICE and gearbox, however as other point out, not in a RAV Hybrid nor many other Toyota hybrid products.

As in push the car forward by hand? I've not tried yet but can have a go, in the not-too-distant future. Since I'm technically minded, what are you thinking? Thank you, R

Might have used some of the kit you trained with.

I thought all 2.0 had lithium packs.... Ive not really investigated it just assumed.

My 2.0 ts normally shows about 520 on range and the most I've pushed it to is 530....or winter about 480.

My 2L TS currently has an overall average of 51.8. It has only done around 400 miles and about 300 of those were motorway / dual carriageway. According to the app short local journeys in traffic are now returning 68-75 mpg