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Anyone seen this? Not a great situation really. https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/askhj/answer/189428/my-new-hybrid-keeps-showing-low-battery-warnings---should-i-reject-it-

Check engine. mounts.

Hello. I have just bought ( second hand ) a navigation module with the following specs: Type: BE 7718 / Version: ECE / HW:G / SW 4.5.0L I have connected to my toyota touch 2 main unit ( Last firmware ) but it does not recognize it . I have checked all the cables with a multimeter for any errors. Any help ? Thank you.

1998 toyota corolla 4efe (1332cc) engine, manual transmission, vibrates at idle (600rpm) 35000 miles . This vibration can be noticed inside the car, is this normal

I would assume Toyota UK / Europe is having some backend IT issues. The new vehicle order tracker isn't working until your vehicle arrives at the dealership, the recall checked can't decide if your vehicle has a recall or not & now the My Toyota app has thrown its toys out.

General shortage of staff in the repair trade, most modern youth just don't want to be mechanics any more & as the older ones retire it gets harder to fill the positions to replace them.

Same with me about a 3 week delay. (service + MOT so that might have also impacted) When I had the DC/DC converter upgrade the app counted that as a new service date so when the car went in a few weeks ago the ago was still saying I had 90 days to go.

Yes, but not all of them. I've usually gone into the My Toyota app and the support section, then noted that I've lost a trip. However, I've had situations when for whatever reason the internal SIM/DCM does not record my starting point or arrival point. For example the app has not recorded the first part of a two part trip (where I've stopped for a break) So according to the app I must have time travelled the first section.

I look at my my Toyota app everyday I like to see the mpg on the journey the times I was in ev mode etc I also like the feature that tells you on the journey where you saw a beautiful woman however this only seems accurate on a sunny day

It might be the engine mounts that need changing. I don't know if they are considered a weak point on the IQ.

I've had the usual not logging in or data missing but this specifically, after accepting my usual log in, wanted the car details confirmed. Whatever, it's working fine now my frustration at the time was not providing any assistance on what was needed to complete the process. As I said the next day it was easy, log in, add the car reg, app confirmed the car was already in my account and went off to get my data.

It did happened to me a few times...

Hi When you start from cold the car will start the engine to warm up and to provide heating to the cabin. All you can do is to make sure you have your heating ON and cabin temperature set at least 20C° or preferably at 22C° with ac ON and in Auto mode all year around. For engine coolant temperature don’t worry, the car can work at any temperature and even if you well below middle of your gauge readings it’s still ok for your engine.

here is another exhaustive video comparing thin vs thick oils: data reveals that thinner oil gives slightly more performance but also a lot more wear. i keep my cars 20+ years so id take longevity/reliability over performance anytime

Hi everyone, I have a 2007 Toyota Mark X, and the other day i started it and it immediatly died on me. After inspecting the cause, i figured out that I was not getting spark to none of the cylinders due to the IGF wires measuring 0.17 volts with ignition ON and 0.3 volts while cranking. (Supposed to be 5 volts) Every fuse inside the cabin and under the hood was checked excluding the hidden high amp fuses. I don't know what else to check. The voltage was measured directly from the ecm pins. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have the same situation as you, tell me how to find the USB1 and USB2 files for updating - I pray.

Dont forget the licence plate lights too - there are 2 on the 2016 Yaris, and the dash / instrument cluster lighting too Without the dash lighting would be 6 X 5W bulbs = 30W, times that by 24 Hours = 720W draw. Divide that by the voltage of 12V = 60Ah, plus the dash lights, say an extra 30W, that would be 120Ah. The average car battery is usually around 50Ah, so it would be very easy to deplete the car battery by leaving the side lights on. Back in the olden days, cars used to have parking light setting that turned on just 2 external lights - usually on the drivers side, front and back of the car, so it would only draw 10W, which would take 20Ah to run for 24 hours, so that would not deplete a normal battery. I would charge the battery back up with a battery charger, rather than jump starting it and relying on a short drive for the alternator to charge the battery, which would take over an hour's drive. However, once a battery has been allowed to fully discharge, its capacity will diminish, as lead acid batteries do not like being run totally flat.

@Agent Orangethank you mate appreciated yes its a wicked car lol really nippy too when u chuck a bottle of redex in it lol 😆

Topic moved to the Yaris Cross forum.

Hello Darren - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.

Thank you for useful ideas & offers of help. It's much ,appreciated & will see whether any of it works out

Interesting. Check out Vak_service on youtube, really knowledgeable guy on these MMTs, made loads of videos on nearly all the faults this gearbox can have.

I purchased the car with the problem Silva1kr

I have chr 2021 1.8 excel. It has usb point in boot and it is connected and live in ready mode. Not all models have it.

Rods74 slightly off topic but did the car give you any warning before it did this? Was it driving fine beforehand?