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@Agent Orangethank you mate appreciated yes its a wicked car lol really nippy too when u chuck a bottle of redex in it lol 😆

Topic moved to the Yaris Cross forum.

Hello Darren - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.

Thank you for useful ideas & offers of help. It's much ,appreciated & will see whether any of it works out

Interesting. Check out Vak_service on youtube, really knowledgeable guy on these MMTs, made loads of videos on nearly all the faults this gearbox can have.

I purchased the car with the problem Silva1kr

I have chr 2021 1.8 excel. It has usb point in boot and it is connected and live in ready mode. Not all models have it.

Rods74 slightly off topic but did the car give you any warning before it did this? Was it driving fine beforehand?

Thank you for your advice. I've noticed that the gearbox ECU has a two-digit number. Is it necessary for these numbers to match on the replacement?

Hi all, got a 2011 C1 (same car as the aygo, citroen owners club wasn't much help) which developed a problem in first and reverse gear recently at extremely low speeds. With no pedals pressed and the car 'creeping', it jerks quite badly, making it quite a hoohaa to park without looking like a learner. It never did this before and its something that's developed fairly recently. Using techstream and a VCI cable, I've already scanned for fault codes. Two codes came up: P0900 Clutch Acuator Circuit (Hist), and C1541 Vehicle Speed Signal (Current). Cleared the P0900 code and drove it for a few days, rescanned, and the code has not reappeared. Not cleared the other one because it comes up as current. Is this whole problem just down to a calibration issue? If it is could someone outline the EXACT procedure for doing this in my car's current drivable state? I have not changed any part of the gearbox mechanism including the acuator. All procedures I have found seem to be unclear about the steps before the calibration. I'd rather get it right first time rather than ending up with a car that doesn't drive at all. The car drives bang on in every other gear and the clutch still pulls well at 101000 miles. Its just the problems outlined that let it down. Thanks for all your help.

You mean the new one? No, not a drop.

Ok thanks Derek, let's see if the garage has sorted me out but if not another avenue to try, many thanks

I would say depending on the mileage. Cars with higher miles and those who were kept idle for long hours will eventually start burning oil pass 140k miles mark. Some earlier others later. The best way to tell if it’s an oil burner is to look tile pipe end, who doesn’t burn oil has clear and rusty exhaust end and those who burn oil has black and oily exhaust, no signs of rust but black soot matter

Update on the power steering saga. After stripping down the dash I removed the power steering ecu but then couldn't find anyone to check it for faults or recondition it . After finding that new ones are now discontinued I took a chance and got a cheap used one and put it in. Rather than refit the entire dash I plugged in the instrument pack and tried it. No difference at all but I did notice that initially the steering didn't seem too bad but after you'd travelled a few miles it got worse, presumably as the electrical components warmed up. Next I unplugged the ecu and also removed the power steering motor which I unplugged but left behind the dash and tried it again with no power steering whatsoever. Obviously the steering was ridiculously heavy at low speed but at higher speed it was apparent the stickiness in the straight ahead position had gone. I then took out the motor properly and on initially spinning the output shaft found it sticking and notchy but after spinning it around a few times it freed off. I refitted it, reconnected the electrics and tried it again. Steering is now OK. Will run the car for a little while before refitting the dash properly but the issue did seem to be attributed to the EPS motor. Don't know why the motor had partially seized up but for the moment seems to be working as it should.

I thought we did well when we bought a 2018 Yaris Hybrid a couple of years ago with 17,000 miles. A tyre fitter was telling me that tyres have a year of manufacture on them when we had a puncture on our old Pug 206cc, never looked myself to be honest. The tyres were 4 or 5 years old but loads of tread left but there were signs of cracking starting on the side wall so replaced. Its been SORN since the start of covid, must get it sorted.

I just removed the alternator - without removing wheel or drive shaft! It IS a tight fit, I agree...but: The distance between drive shaft and bridge is the problem. But instead of removing the drive shaft, it is possible to lift the engine just enough to get the alternator out - if You have access to a crane. Just remove the big vertical bolt on the body side of the top engine mount. Then Attach the crane to the mount and lift. There is just enough flexibility in the other three mounts to make enough room between bridge and drive shaft for the alternator. It has to be oriented just the right way (plastic end first) - but it will come out!

Thank you for the information Paul

That’s great news thank you so much for the info

This is mine after a good run, very warm idle. Would appreciate some comparison with other 1.0 autos IMG_9202.mov

Hello, I have bought a second-hand Aygo and would now like to update the system. The current parameters are as follows. Model ID: 13TPDAEU-EA01 Hardware no.: 86140-0h010 Sam ID: AEAICJPBOB Audio: 830 OS: 0621 Could I also get the link to the software?

Hi Linn, intermitent faults are always difficult to trace, yes the switch will be out of view so if it was me I just put a new switch in and try that.

Apparently 40k mile oil changes are bad for the engine...

Its a UK 012 code battery & normally they will be around 52 Ah

For anyone that wants to order a new Yaris Cross be a wear that the Yaris Cross brochure currently available on the Toyota website is still dated December 2022 & the information is very out of date The May 2024 pricelist currently on the Toyota website give's a better idea but a Toyota main dealer should have a 2024 model year briefing guide for the updated Yaris Cross with the correct specification information in.

I never had one of those, did want one quite badly back in the 70s. I liked the shape, and my gfs brother had one, and it seemed a bit nippy, and well built. And you always knew when one was coming in the dark with that lovely touch of the illuminated badge .