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Miguel, just noticed your Toyota is shown as still looking. Can you change your profile to match your car?

@FROSTYBALLS This is what I get if I click that link. I once migrated to another forum along with several others because of the activities of a moderator called Red Yaris 54 despite being a moderator myself and producing most of the tech bulletins on the RAV4 forum. We could not get the attention of Steve to resolve it so a member formed a different forum. Did he remove my message privileges because I am no longer a moderator and no longer have a message facility yet I do on the sister Lexus Owners Club.

I am testing this in my car. I commute to work 50km (each way), mostly highway (avg. speed 60km/h because of traffic), using ACC, with uphills, downhills and traffic, so it should be the perfect testing environment for this. I will let you know the results once I collect enough observations. If anyone wants to test it on theirs, that would be great. From what I investigated there is very little feedback online as to how well this works. In another forum one driver reported 10% increase in efficiency for a Toyota Sienna, but his sample was just a few trips. P.S.: If you want to test this, you need to make sure that in the Sat Nav settings "Predictive Efficient Drive" is enabled. If green leaves are popping up in the screen, it should be enabled.

Job well done. Do like your improvised gearbox trolley jack. Thanks for the cross member tip. Hopefully wont need it, but useful info nonetheless.

Yes,for pedal height only.

Peter, not saying that at all, just saying that you need to know about things that would make it a suitable car. To exaggerate: can it do regular motorway journeys and carry two large dogs!

The best way that I can sum it up Beverly, is that I can definitely feel that there is more torque available under my right foot than there was with the 115. It is a lot more "eager" and the regen braking is more intense also which makes sense. (if you increase the toque of MG2, it follows that in generator mode, it will offer more resistance)

All the best to you Rob,enjoy your new car mate!.

Does anyone know if the Swace/Corolla has clever headlights that can adjust for driving in France or do I have to use the stickers?

Yes, but other owners opinions/impressions can't be a bad thing. Others on here post their opinions/reviews of a car they own or have just bought. So why shouldn't Rich do the same? e.g. I like my car's C.V.T. but others hate that transmission. Some say the Aygo X rear doors don't open far enough which depends on what, if any, are going to use the rear seats. Some comment on the paper thin steel of the body shell. I don't like 18/17" wheels, I would prefer, say 15/16" wheels with a larger profile tyre. I like it's higher driving position and allegedly comfy seats etc..

I'll look into that, is it just the for pedal height and not adjusting the transmission control select cable?

It seems that there has indeed been a change in the way that the AHB system operates. When I had a firm delivery date for my car, and being new to Toyotas, I looked at a few Youtube videos to get an idea how everything worked. IIRC, AHB operation was as you describe. However, the AHB system on my car definitely works as I have described above, i.e. AHB switch 'on' and stalk in the low beam position. This from my car's manual: 2024 Corolla Hybrid Hatchback Touring Sports - Owner Manual Using the Automatic High Beam system Press the Automatic High Beam switch. Turn the headlight switch to the or position. When the headlight switch lever is in the low beam position, the AHB system will be enabled and the AHB indicator will illuminate. Turning the high beams on/off manually Changing to the high beams Push the lever forward. The Automatic High Beam indicator will turn off and the high beam indicator will turn on. Pull the lever to its original position to enable the Automatic High Beam system again. Changing to the low beams Press the Automatic High Beam switch. The Automatic High Beam indicator will turn off. Press the switch to enable the Automatic High Beam system again. Temporarily changing to the low beams It is recommended to switch to the low beams when use of the high beams is inappropriate or when the high beams may cause problems or distress to other drivers or pedestrians nearby. Pull the lever rearward and then return it to its original position. The high beams will illuminate while the lever is pulled, however, after the lever is returned to its original position, the low beams will remain on for a certain amount of time. After this, the Automatic High Beam system will operate. As a by-the-by, I have also found that it seems to work very well. So far, I don't think that I have ever needed to intervene and I don't think that I have been flashed by anyone for being too slow to dip my lights.

Do you think that I dreamt up the spilt figures!?

I imagine it's the same as when you sell or px a car to a garage. There's a special process so they don't become the next keeper and that honour passes to the next actual 'user'.

Many years ago I did a distant learning course and one exercise was selection of a car from 5. First we had to divide the criteria into essential and desirable. We were given facts about each and facts that the buyer required. One essential criterion was to carry his golf clubs. We were able to eliminate 2 cars immediately. Of the 3 remaining only two met the other essential criteria. From the 2 remaining we had to list the desirable criteria and prioritise these. While the conclusion was entirely objective a real buyer would probably reject French over German and Chinese over Japanese. It's clear that some people write to Andrew English in the Telegraph to get his ideas from a few essential criteria. They then just need to sift the desirable ones.

Do have comparable figures for previous models, or indeed competitor models? Do you have projections from Toyota for the split between private and fleet/business customers? Without both of those you are just guessing it was a miscalculation.

No it's no sarcasm. 😉 Simply iPhone has no microSD slot. So you should save your music files in internal iPhone memory.

Peter, other's opinions are subjective and wholly dependent on what you need from the car. The Aygo is simply too small for our needs. The Corolla was not ideal either and we prefer the Yaris Cross by a mile.

Thanks @Cyker, if it was normal slave cylinder I wouldn't be panicking. I literally was dreading taking it all apart because of internal leaks in the concentric slave. Stuck camera in the inspection hole, sigh of relief seeing that it was dry so I continued to go back and forth, doing the manual bleeding. (Had to use normal spanner as my flare nut wrench was too fat to turn) !Removed! nora, took me almost 2hours and it's now driveable. What a bleeding, never done that much pedal pushing, would a pressure bleeder help? I had to top up with dot4, the reservoir was greenish, but new one is like light brown I think. Then it was coming out murky. It's now apparent the break fluid is dirty and need a flush....that's job for another day. I've driven a shirt distance, pedal is super soft, changing all gear ok. Not sure I'd need to bleed more? I did it till there was no bubbles, then each time I open the bleeder, not much came out. I've torqued everything to spec, unfortunately there are some sort of creeking noise and knocking noise over a slighest bumps. I struggled to take the drop links off, !Removed! #@£#@# design with allen key in the middle, tried channel locks as the allen key rounded off, still could not take it off. I am pretty sure they are shot. Had to remove the front crossmember sub-assembly as I could not maneuver the gear box out, looks frightening but its quite easy and then no need to waste time removing engine mounts/brackets, just remove the centre bolts. Totally forgot that I tucked away the rear mounts, should have installed that before raising the gear box, what a struggle to get that in place after, it didn't look it was possible to come out, took it out from top and place in position. One broken cable clip and maybe dented head shield. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, lots revisits is steps, probably because I was forgetful.... I don't think you should do it on your own like I did due to last minute

Quite. In my cases it was 3 days for KF and a day for Halfords. The waiting rooms were perfect for a mechanic popping in for a quick change and not having to change his overalls. Beverages were non-existent but plenty of magazines if you wished to read about tyres.

Hi Viskam and welcome to the forum ! Yes it's normal, mine behaves the same as yours, at 100 kmph in fifth gear, it has 3000 rpm. My first intention was to change the pair of fifth gear pinions in order to get lower rpm, but I've got used with it and I let it be...

I would say the clutch is slipping based on what you describe. The revs will of course increase with speed but it should be a progressive increase, if the revs suddenly start increasing and the road speed does not then the clutch is slipping.

A good chance to recharge the 12V battery 😉

Too early to say. I know my dealer got a delivery date off the computer.

Ouch 🤕. That's a fine example on why I'm contemplating either a Space Saver or full alloy wheel. However, if your journey was a "local" journey, I may have been caught out anyway, because I'm intending to only pop it in the boot for longer journeys, so maybe I'll rethink that part of my plan😂