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Another thought, wheel bearing, they growl! Would be unusual on a modern 5yr old car unless big miles or hard driven. Easy clue is if the noise changes on bends (as driving around a bend loads the outside wheels). This is another reason to identify the cause sooner rather than later. A completely failed wheel bearing can cause loss of control.

Hi. I'm getting a rattling/thunking noise from what sounds like inside the steering wheel. I had the airbag off the other week and checked for any looseness but there wasn't any. The steering feels fine too. Is that the steering rack?

Landi and Romano have a license for installing LPG system on hybrid cars, with a fine tuning and tests this is an important point: the installer must be an expert one with the LPG system, not a generic mech

The problem with lpg is that you need to find a real expert to do the tuning. Most of them just setup auto tune and off you go. There was a case where installers drilled a head in 1.5 hybrid to put the injector for the BRC installation without owner consent. Results? The car was vibrating randomly and the mechanics blamed everything else. The owner eventually landed in the shop 350 km away but got the car serviced as it should be. I don't know which installation they put but they got rid of BRC. It was smooth from there on.

Hm, the formula needs adjustment - now it just consumed 53.7kwh instead of 64.8 from 20-100% - difference possibly from a warmer battery from more recent drive and warmer weather

Could be many things and impossible to diagnose on a forum. However, you have no warning lights, and if it isn't affecting performance/driveability; if it was my car I would be thinking: If the noise varies with speed but not engine load/acceleration, possibly something as simple as a stone stuck in a brake caliper (especially if the noise started suddenly). If the noise varies according to acceleration/engine load, possibly an exhaust leak. Joint, cracked pipe, cracked manifold (which wouldn't be good). Sorry to say but I would get it looked at. A stone stuck in the brakes might free itself (driving forwards and backwards repeatedly can help this) but most issues won't cure themselves and are likely to get worse.

I was just swoping wheels around and I thought I'd use 2 spares to speed things up till I realised one didn't fit.. DOH!

oh I agree that the cars do live on, I still check the health status of my previous cars on the MOT check system (my first 2014 Aygo for example is still living) all I need to do is remember the reg numbers which is not difficult with photos lol.

My new 2024 TS doesn't make that noise. Sounds like something squeaking/loose. IME, if you take it back to the dealer, the first thing that they will do is take out everything that isn't standard or that you have put in it (and I mean everything, in the car, boot, the lot). That is something that you can do yourself and may save you a bill. If it doesn't help I would suggest taking to a dealer as something might need fixing. It doesn't sound like a normal noise.

Doesn't happen when it's idle at traffic light. It's when i start accelerating and go up the gears then it happens. As you mentioned happens with speed.

Just filled mine up... 499 on last tank. 😁😁😁

Is the noise constant or vary with speed or change according to throttle position/engine load?

I thought all 2.0 had lithium packs.... Ive not really investigated it just assumed.

Hi Tahir,In modern vehicles equipped with ABS (anti-lock braking system), there are typically ABS sensors at each wheel. These sensors detect the speed of rotation for each wheel. Most systems have sensors for all wheels, so both front and rear wheels are covered. Additionally, the sensors are usually identical for left and right wheels but may differ between front and rear wheels due to design variations.Do you have a scan tool, if so see if this brings up any fault codes. If you are not able to do the investigation work and repair work yourself IMO I would ask a mechanic to fix this for you.Hope this helps.

Are you trying to push it with someone in the car pressing the clutch? You should be. Engine off, clutch down , first gear. Can it be pushed?

Ah! As far as I can tell, the wheels on E210 Corollas haven't changed since 2018, maybe before. It doesn't look like the Prius ever had the same CB and PCD (smaller in both measurements). In this case, I think that I'll trust the supplier, up to point, and just check the CB and PCD measurements of the spare. Should be 60.1mm 5x114.3mm respectively, I believe.

modern cars like to throw a fit if something isn't just so - I had the issue yesterday because I didn't shut the door properly also if you are not in ready mode the car will turn itself off after 15 minutes

Το πράσινο καλώδιο 3 ακίδων από την παλιά μονάδα είναι το ίδιο με τη νέα μονάδα 5 ακίδων (3 ακίδων). αν κόψω το παλιό βύσμα και το συνδέσω σε 5 pin, το αποτέλεσμα είναι το ίδιο??? My car dont have city pack, no maps, only radio, hybrid battery charge and Consumption indicator

Hi everyone. *Big* update simce my last entry. I HAVE GOT IT WORKING 😁😁😁 I gave up for a while but then I decided to try again. I needed a Valeo key fob 736716-A Tried to reprogram using the methods described. Worked 1st time. I am sooooooooooo happy it works. You wouldn't believe my jump for joy that it worked! My grey key did work for remote reprogram if anyone else wants to know. Thank you guys for the awesome help!

Only mentioned it is I tryed my spare from my gen 3 prius only to find bolt spacing is different to my corolla... I wouldn't have given this a second thought as most manufacturers stick to the same size for decades

Many thanks, MikeSh, for your helpful suggestions.

As I stated above the Black box is the DCM, the cable is a USB connection - the small plug is data and the 5-pin plug is 5v power the cable will plug into your existing DCM the 9" smart connect was an option from 2021 onwards on the normal yaris

Hi, On engine 1AD-FTV Are these cylinders order 1,2,3,4 from the timing side of the gearbox side. I ask because I have just installed 4 x injectors and coded them as cylinder 1 being from the timing chain side. Car now runs fine but has new fault code P1601 injector correction value fault which indicates incorrect compensate codes entered? Also still smoke with strong smell of fuel. What have I not done? Or what do I need to do? Thanks in advance.

Nope. Just normal regular local driving