2.2 D4D Stalling Problem

[RT3X]

Hi all,

I am hoping that someone will be able to help with a fault that has recently developed on my 2005 2.2 D4D (150), 93k, with full SH (Toyota up to 70k). Runs and drives fine, averages 50mpg plus on Total Excellium, doesn't smoke or use oil / water. The engine will always start immediately whether hot or cold, the problem is it only runs for a second or two then stalls. It can then be started again but will not keep running unless the accelerator pedal is pressed. Sometimes it starts and runs without stalling, but only about 25% of the time. When starting hot the revs need to be kept at about 2k for 10 seconds otherwise it stalls again. Cold starting only needs 2 - 3 seconds before taking foot off pedal. Garage has so far checked the crank and cam sensors, fuel pressure is constant, fuel system / air leaks ruled out with separate supply direct to pump, and there are no fault codes showing. Have booked it in with Toyota for a diagnostic check, but don't want to do this unless forced. Searching the forums has revealed a few similar cases which have lead to new injectors being fitted. Any ideas? Jon

[igormus]

Hi all,

I am hoping that someone will be able to help with a fault that has recently developed on my 2005 2.2 D4D (150), 93k, with full SH (Toyota up to 70k). Runs and drives fine, averages 50mpg plus on Total Excellium, doesn't smoke or use oil / water. The engine will always start immediately whether hot or cold, the problem is it only runs for a second or two then stalls. It can then be started again but will not keep running unless the accelerator pedal is pressed. Sometimes it starts and runs without stalling, but only about 25% of the time. When starting hot the revs need to be kept at about 2k for 10 seconds otherwise it stalls again. Cold starting only needs 2 - 3 seconds before taking foot off pedal. Garage has so far checked the crank and cam sensors, fuel pressure is constant, fuel system / air leaks ruled out with separate supply direct to pump, and there are no fault codes showing. Have booked it in with Toyota for a diagnostic check, but don't want to do this unless forced. Searching the forums has revealed a few similar cases which have lead to new injectors being fitted. Any ideas? Jon

hello

- fuel filter

- SCV test

- EGR valve

do not buy injectors SO FAR

cheers/Igor

come back with results first

[RT3X]

Thanks Igor,

The SCV is showing 2.1ohms at 23 degrees, filter was taken out of fuel circuit when tested with separate supply, and disconnecting EGR makes no difference. Is there anything else to do to check the SCV?

Cheers, Jon

[igormus]

Thanks Igor,

The SCV is showing 2.1ohms at 23 degrees, filter was taken out of fuel circuit when tested with separate supply, and disconnecting EGR makes no difference. Is there anything else to do to check the SCV?

Cheers, Jon

ok Jon

you'd compare 2.1 ohms with tech manual. if you will have minor diference with manual's-- then SCV must be changed. it seems they play with you.

cheers/Igor

[RT3X]

Any pointers on where to find the tech info / values?

Thanks again, Jon

[igormus]

Any pointers on where to find the tech info / values?

Thanks again, Jon

we'd ask for support PETE (t-spiritpete) -- he must to have it on files. he seems to own the same car.

PM to him

cheers/Igor

[t-spiritpete]

Any pointers on where to find the tech info / values?

Thanks again, Jon

we'd ask for support PETE (t-spiritpete) -- he must to have it on files. he seems to own the same car.

PM to him

cheers/Igor

Hello Igor how's things with you in the Ukraine?

The info I have does not cover the 2.2d4d but I believe most of components are similar with the 2.0 d4d.

The best thing I can do is to provide this link ;) so that Jon or anyone else can download the full manual and study it in full detail. The avensis manual 2003-2007

http://rapidshare.com/files/133295761/Avensis_2002_T0_2007__Manual.rar

Any problems with this then PM me for help with getting the manual up and running.

Best regards Pete.

[RT3X]

Hi Pete thanks for the manual link. Looks like the SCV should have: "Resistance: 1.5 to 2.3 ohms at 20C (68F)", so 2.1 is within tolerance.

Can the SCV be within range but still not function correctly? I have also spoken to Feather Diesel at Leeds, who fit a lot of these valves (mainly on Mazdas...) They quoted around £175 plus fitting and "regenerating" total £305 plus VAT! And there's no guarantee that's where the problem is - any further comments or suggestions much appreciated.

Cheers, Jon

[igormus]

Hi Pete thanks for the manual link. Looks like the SCV should have: "Resistance: 1.5 to 2.3 ohms at 20C (68F)", so 2.1 is within tolerance.

Can the SCV be within range but still not function correctly? I have also spoken to Feather Diesel at Leeds, who fit a lot of these valves (mainly on Mazdas...) They quoted around £175 plus fitting and "regenerating" total £305 plus VAT! And there's no guarantee that's where the problem is - any further comments or suggestions much appreciated.

Cheers, Jon

Jon

When engine stalls -- it means SCV cuts off fuel suction line (the only SCV is responsible to stop the engine) or fuel filter is blocked or fuel pressure sensor does not work (screwed in in the rail edge with wire) or somewhere an electrical signal is lost (to the same SCV; pressure sensor etc). It is the diesel and can only be stopped due to an ellectrical signal losiing of SCV burning out. I do not consider an issue with central starting lock/key. By the way how dos an alternator live? have you tested his voltage? THe less voltage the SCV stem starts to dance inside and cutting off fuel line. Cheers/Igor

PS -- Pete hi Matey + thank you for prompt feedback with manual -- I understand we're all not dealers and some info is out of our files.

Cheers/Igor

[avalanche]

Hi all,

I am hoping that someone will be able to help with a fault that has recently developed on my 2005 2.2 D4D (150), 93k, with full SH (Toyota up to 70k). Runs and drives fine, averages 50mpg plus on Total Excellium, doesn't smoke or use oil / water. The engine will always start immediately whether hot or cold, the problem is it only runs for a second or two then stalls. It can then be started again but will not keep running unless the accelerator pedal is pressed. Sometimes it starts and runs without stalling, but only about 25% of the time. When starting hot the revs need to be kept at about 2k for 10 seconds otherwise it stalls again. Cold starting only needs 2 - 3 seconds before taking foot off pedal. Garage has so far checked the crank and cam sensors, fuel pressure is constant, fuel system / air leaks ruled out with separate supply direct to pump, and there are no fault codes showing. Have booked it in with Toyota for a diagnostic check, but don't want to do this unless forced. Searching the forums has revealed a few similar cases which have lead to new injectors being fitted. Any ideas? Jon

Check this warrenty about AD-motors (D4D D-Cat)

58534538-Oil-Consumption-Egr-Clogged-Extended-Warranty1-1.pdf

[cmia]

This is the problem with the fuel pump control valve.

You need to replace the entire pump as the control valve is not avalible seprate.

[RT3X]

UPDATE

Thanks for all the advice and info folks.

The garage have now tried a fitting a new SCV, and it has made no difference!

Is the next thing to get the injectors checked?

I don't think the fault relates to HG probs as there is no oil or water loss, and the EGR was quite clean and working OK. Plus I don't believe my car is a D-CAT model.

Cheers, Jon

[RT3X]

Dear cmia,

"This is the problem with the fuel pump control valve.

You need to replace the entire pump as the control valve is not avalible seprate."

The SCV on the pump is available, and has been fitted.

Is the control valve you mention something different?

Cheers, Jon

[igormus]

UPDATE

Thanks for all the advice and info folks.

The garage have now tried a fitting a new SCV, and it has made no difference!

Is the next thing to get the injectors checked?

I don't think the fault relates to HG probs as there is no oil or water loss, and the EGR was quite clean and working OK. Plus I don't believe my car is a D-CAT model.

Cheers, Jon

hi Jon

As far as i ve caught you the engine starts well -- i would not calibrate injectors unless we find a reason.

SCV -- they are two on the pump -- have you tested both? If both are in order; engine starts well -- check with alternator feeding voltage to exclude an alternator from the issue chain. I have some thoughts but firstly checj with alternator. Cheers/Igor

[RT3X]

Hi Igor

AFAIK there is only one small SCV on the pump (I've tried to attach a picture). It is different to the earlier 2.0 D4D with the 2 large SCVs. I will ask the garage to check the alternator output - is it possible to have this fault with no other symptoms? There are no issues with flat Battery or starting.

Cheers, Jon

[cmia]

It is the single small one that sits on the HPFP.

its about 40mm by 15mm

also no dealer kit avalible for SCV

[RT3X]

Further update...

I have been to collect the car now, so that it can go to the diesel repair specialist next week. Changing the (single) SCV on the HP pump didn't cure the problem BUT they do need to be calibrated when they are replaced on this engine, so I am hoping that will cure it. Will report back with outcome next week.

Jon

[cmia]

I dont see how they are going to calibrate it, when the ecu software is locked and is only read only....

can you get a part number of what they replaced?

[RT3X]

Just to update anyone who has been following this - I have got my car back today with the fault cured.

The diesel specialist had at first said the replacement SCV needed to be coded. He then couldn't find any information on coding it so wasted time investigating what else the problem could be. In the end he took it to Mr T and between them they managed to get the SCV coded, and the car now runs spot on. Toyota had told the original garage that the first thing they'd do would be to fit upgraded injectors before even looking at anything else(££££'s), so I suppose it could have been much worse.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions put forward.

Cheers, Jon

[cmia]

Just to update anyone who has been following this - I have got my car back today with the fault cured.

The diesel specialist had at first said the replacement SCV needed to be coded. He then couldn't find any information on coding it so wasted time investigating what else the problem could be. In the end he took it to Mr T and between them they managed to get the SCV coded, and the car now runs spot on. Toyota had told the original garage that the first thing they'd do would be to fit upgraded injectors before even looking at anything else(££££'s), so I suppose it could have been much worse.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions put forward.

Cheers, Jon

only dealers can calibrate or code into ecu

[Nicktu]

Hello every bodies!

And thanks a lot for all info to solve my Toyota with the same problem.

About coding ECU, I only release the Battery in ten minutes and connect  it again. The ECU will reset by it self. Now my car runs normal as it was before the problem became. 

Best regards