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Key Programming, Again! (Sorry)


mikey-t
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Hey all. I've just purchased a 2008 t25 TR 1.8 petrol (which i absolutely love) that only came with one key, not sure if its the master or not. I've purchased a key from eBay and i am having some difficulty trying to program the immobiliser to work with the new key. I know its been covered in depth and have read more threads on the subject than I care to remember but a little clarification would be very helpful.

I have got the unlocking to work but no matter how many times I try the key sequences for the immobiliser it just wont recognise the new key. Like a few others I get the 2 blinks followed by three blinks of the security l.e.d then back to the standard flash. Does anyone know what the 2 blinks then the three blinks actually means? I have tried erasing all the keys then adding keys numerous times for a couple of hours but with no joy.

Some threads say that certain transponder chips just wont work with certain cars and its just the luck of the draw, if this is the case how would I know exactly which key to purchase from eBay? I don't just want to keep buying keys on the off chance it might be ok for my car. Thanks for any suggestions.

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May have got a bit further if anyone is interested. I tried the programming sequence again today but instead of inserting the new key I just reinserted the old key. With a slightly different sequence of 3 blinks then 1 blink of the L.E.D after a minute it stopped flashing.Now im assuming the 3 and 2 blinking sequence means the new key is not compatible. I also found this on a website.

Type of transponder chip used T4 Transponder (Texas ID4C) T16 Transponder (Texas Crypto ID4D-60)

T31 Transponder (Texas Crypto ID4D-67)

1997 1998 1999 2000 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Avensis

It looks like toyota changed the transponder chip mid 2005. My new key says it was manufactured mid 2004 and the car is a late 2008 model so according to the above chart, I have different transponders. :( Does anyone in the business of autolocksmithing know if this is correct? Cheers all.

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All black two button remote keys are master keys. They are required as part of the dulication procedure. If you only have a grey 'valet' key then you're sort of stuffed. They cannot be used to duplicate the key on the vehicle.

Keys (excluding the remote aspect) can be 'cloned' off vehicle by auto-locksmiths. They operate by storing the coding on a Battery operated memory chip which should last years.

My knowledge is a few years old so things may have changed. What is certain - if you loose your key you will have to pay up to £1000 at the dealer for a ecu change. Toyota charge £155 for a fully operational remote master key (assuming they can use yours for the duplication process).

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Thanks for the reply gazza, Ive managed to source a key which has the T31 transponder which is the same as whats in the master key that came with the car, for £15. Ill just remove that chip and try it in my second key that has a T16 in it. Cheers all.

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There is a guy in Blackpool who can sort you out a key had one done for my Aygo for £60.

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  • 6 months later...

Hey all. I've just purchased a 2008 t25 TR 1.8 petrol (which i absolutely love) that only came with one key, not sure if its the master or not. I've purchased a key from ebay and i am having some difficulty trying to program the immobiliser to work with the new key. I know its been covered in depth and have read more threads on the subject than I care to remember but a little clarification would be very helpful.

I have got the unlocking to work but no matter how many times I try the key sequences for the immobiliser it just wont recognise the new key. Like a few others I get the 2 blinks followed by three blinks of the security l.e.d then back to the standard flash. Does anyone know what the 2 blinks then the three blinks actually means? I have tried erasing all the keys then adding keys numerous times for a couple of hours but with no joy.

Some threads say that certain transponder chips just wont work with certain cars and its just the luck of the draw, if this is the case how would I know exactly which key to purchase from ebay? I don't just want to keep buying keys on the off chance it might be ok for my car. Thanks for any suggestions.

Hey all,

Not a strange question at all.

I've got an avensis t25 2005 1.8 lhd mt.

I received 2 keys.

-1 remote fob key (black 3 buttons) which is master key. *(WORKING)

-1 grey valet key *(Was working)

Today I received my blank and exactly same remote transponder.

Went to locksmith, put the things together.

For theft prevention I erased all remotes and transponders.

Then I tried to add my new key (black 3button) to immobilizer. FAIL!

Then different method (1 turn and 1 doorslam less) for the (previously working) valet key. FAIL also!

Same 2, 3 blinks as yours.

I was so only able to add the new key remote to the car locking mechanism.

As stated above must not be true because my grey valet key was working. I'm just not able to add it again. (*same for new key)

I've read all the instructions on this forum.

Can someone help me out here?

Tnx!

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Little update,

Remote fob purchased from eBay has a faulty transponder in it.

I managed to re-add the valet key again.

Is it possible to take the transponder from the valet key (cutting through?) and place it in the valeo 3 button remote?

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I used this procedure.

I tried a couple of methods on here with no success.

I then found one that works for the Corolla E11 facelift, with the two buttons on the key.

I also tried it on an 05 Rav4 and it worked also.

So here goes, this is just a guide, and should not be undertaken by somebody who does not feel confident in doing so. I also take no Responsibility if you decide to turn your car into fort knox if you decide to mess it up.

"Programming New Keys"

STEPS:

1. Begin by sitting in the driver seat with all the doors shut.

2. Insert your working master (black) key in the ignition.

3. Very Quickly, turn the key from "LOCK" to "ON" 5 times. (You will end with the key in the "LOCK" position) [the 5 on-offs just need to be < 1 second each (you can hear something switching in the engine bay after 1 second switched to on - you've probably just got to beat that).]

4. Immediately, open and close the driver door 6 times very quickly. (End with the door closed)

5. Immediately, remove your working Master Key and insert your new Master Key

6. Turn the key to the "ON" position and leave it there while you wait for 1 minute.

7. After the minute, if you want to program another key, just remove the first one and insert the next one, turning it to "ON" and leaving it in position for 1 minute.

8. When you are through programming keys, just take the last one out, open and then close the driver door to lock in the programming, and your done.

Programming Sub Keys (Grey) is done the same way except you turn the master key 4 times before you open and close the door 5 times. Then insert the sub key, turn to the "ON" position, and wait your minute. Finish by removing the key and opening and closing the door 1 time as before.

Linking your Key to car locks:

Better to start with confirmation mode first to know that how many keys are already programmed to it.

Here's the info (I have only tried and tested the "ADD" function) :

There are four different programming commands when setting up or verifying your remote transmitter, they are:

A. Add mode, used to add a remote to your Prius that is not currently registered.

B. Rewrite mode, used to erase all previously registered remotes and allow you to begin again the programming process.

C. Confirmation mode, used to verify the number of remotes that are already programmed in your Prius.

D. Prohibit mode, to prohibit all remotes from operating the door locks.

All four modes start with these instructions:

1) Make sure that the key is not in the ignition, the doors are unlocked, and the driver's door is open.

2) Very quickly, without turning, insert and remove key from the ignition twice. (leave key out)

3) Close and open the driver door twice. (leave door in open position)

4) Again, insert key into the ignition and remove it. This time only once. (leave key out)

5) Close and open the driver door twice, then close the door.

6) Insert key into the ignition and leave it in the LOCK position.

A. Add mode:

A1) Turn the key to "ON" for 1 second, then turn back to "LOCK".

A2) Remove the key.

A3) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK" and 1 second later "UNLOCK" (just listen)

A4) On your remote, press the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously for 1 to 1½ seconds, then let go.

A5) On your remote, IMMEDIATELY press unlock by itself.

A6) You’ll get one of three responses:

R1) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" once. The remote is accepted. If you want to program another remote, immediately proceed to step A4 with your second remote, otherwise open the driver’s door and the remote is registered.

R2) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" twice. Either you didn’t use the same remote in steps A4 and A5(not likely), or this remote was already registered.

The timing was off when you pressed the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously and then UNLOCK by itself. Immediately press the two buttons together and the unlock by itself again. Keep trying until you get the locks to signal once that you have been successful. Then if you have another remote to program, quickly press its' buttons as before, until you hear the locks signal once. When you are finished, open and close the driver door to lock in the programming.

R3) If no response, go back to step 1 near the beginning of these instructions.

B. Rewrite mode:

B1) Turn the key to "ON" for 1 second, turn back to "LOCK" for 1 second, then back to "ON" for 1 second, and finally back to "LOCK" for 1 second

B2) Remove the key.

B3) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK", 1 second later "UNLOCK", 1 sec., "LOCK", 1 sec. "UNLOCK". (just listen)

B4) On your remote, press the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously for 1 to 1½ seconds, then let go.

B5) On your remote, IMMEDIATELY press unlock by itself.

B6) You’ll get one of three responses:

R1) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" once. The remote is accepted. If you want to program another remote, immediately proceed to step B4, otherwise open the driver’s door and the remote is registered.

R2) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" twice. You didn’t use the same remote in steps B4 and B5(not likely).

R3) If no response, go back to step 1 near the beginning of these instructions.

C. Confirmation mode:

C1) Turn the key in 1 to "ON" and back to "LOCK" in one second intervals for a total of 3 times.

C2) Remove the key.

C3) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK" and "UNLOCK" in 2 second intervals. (just listen and count each set)

1 Set = You have 1 remote registered

2 Sets = You have 2 remotes registered

3 Sets = You have 3 remotes registered

4 Sets = You have 4 remotes registered

5 Sets = You do NOT have any remotes registered

D. Prohibit mode:

D1) Turn the key to "ON" and back to "LOCK" in one second intervals a total of 5 times.

D2) Remove the key.

D3) You’ll hear the doors "LOCK", 1 second later "UNLOCK" 5 times. (just listen and count each set)

D4) This will erase all previously registered remotes and cancel the wireless door lock function.

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Thanks, that's what I used also.

I managed to add the grey valet key. I cut it open and removed the transponder and placed it in the fob bought on eBay.

Now it's working.

What I'm asking myself is, how to determine the type and make of transponder that works with my 2005.

Also, I only have one master key. What's the difference in transponder chip in my valet and master.

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  • 4 years later...

Both my remote keys do not open the car as from yesterday. I put fresh batteries in them both and still nothing. The keys are transmitting as I can hear them on the operating frequency when I tune in. Is there a way of getting this to talk to the car again? Model is Avensis 2.0 D4D 2004. Thanks.

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