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Keith276

toyota yaris wheel bearing

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I need to change at least one rear wheel bearing on my 2009 Yaris.

I was wondering if anyone can recommend where to get one from, as there seems to be so many different prices for the same part.

Thanks.

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Moved to the Yaris club.

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The genuine Toyota hub/bearing and ABS sensor unit was quoted as £356 by my local Toyota dealer for our 04 1.3 Yaris a little while ago when I did one of mine. Therer are lots of pattern spares on e bay for around £28-£40. However I bought one which fixed the ABS problem I had but then had an MOT advisory for play in the (new) bearing. After much hassle I got a refund and ordered another from a different supplier. I fitted that one and there was play in it, again more resistance to giving me a refund.  Different makes but both faulty. I eventually bought from these https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/carpartsgermany2016?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

It is a very easy job although the 4 shoulder securing bolts need a long socket extension to get at and soaking in penetrating Oil helps to free off these very tight bolts. By the time I had done it 3 times I could get one off and a new one fitted in about 1/2 an hour. You need a tiny flat screwdriver to push down a plastic tab that holds in the sensor to the hub. Good luck with it

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Sorry for the late reply. Thanks very much for your detailed response which is a great help to me and no dounbt saved me a lot of messing about.

I will order the wheel bearing from where you got your third and final one from. I will have a go at doing it myself, but i bet i won't be able to undo the bolts holding hub in place because of rust.

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It is best to remove the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber and then just push the shocker sideways out of the way. You can then get at all the bolts easily. With a 8" socket extension you can tap the socket onto the flange bolts to getit  well seated. One of mine I used a not so good ring spanner at first and rounded off the nut head on one of them. I got out of that by hammering on a size smaller socket. I bought a set of 4 new bolts from Toyota for £8-9 as a couple of them were a bit rounded . If a bolt head became rounded you could alway use a blunt chisel or screwdriver and hammer it bearing on the flange which is afair bit bigger than the nuts. Only 4 nuts and good access with the shocker loose. Good luck with it, dont forget the penetrating Oil it does make a difference.

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The bolts that hold the hub bearing in place are accessed from the front of the hub between the brake shoes on my Yaris.

I removed the brake drum and removed the hub bearing bolts without much trouble. It took me an hour to free the hub bearing from the car though.

There was one small area where i could place a socket behind the flange of the hub and against the disc holding the brake shoes. I then wedged a chisel between the top of the socket and the back of the flange and hit the inner side of the chisel with a hammer (the hammer swinging from inside the wheel arch area outwards). That knocked the hub bearing away a little on one side, so then after a few hits downwards on the wheel bolts, the hub fianlly fell free.

 

I bought the hub bearing from the seller you recommended and its fine. No play and no noise 🙂

So with the job done, thanks again for your help 👍

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I am pleased that you got it done ok but I am totally confused about your holding bolts direction. The bearing hub bolt holes are threaded and the hub fits against the back plate that carries the brake shoes so how can bolt heads from the brake shoe side tighten up unless someone has fitted ordinary bolts with nuts on the back (other side) of the brake plate. The proper studs have a smaller head for a 10mm socket but then have a bigger forged flange and would not be longer enough to take a nut ont he back.

Just puzzled.

keith

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The outer flange that holds the actual wheel bolts has holes in it, so you can turn the flange to line these holes up with the bolts further back that are holding the hub bearing in place.

The bolts go through the threaded holes in the hub bearing, through the disc plate that holds the shoes and into threaded holes in the wishbone.

 

This video here is about brake shoes, but its the same model Yaris that i have and in places throughout the video you can see the 14mm bolt heads that hold the hub bearing in place. The bolt heads have two lines that look like a number 11 on them:

 

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Thanks for that I was puzzled- different to mine as the suspension mount on mine has clearance size holes for the bolts and the bolts go through from the back to bolt up into the tapped holes in the hub. Mine is a French Made Yaris but I am surprised if that made the difference. Live and learn!

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I wish I read this before I bought my bearing, but these after market bearings have good reviews

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-YARIS-Mk1-1-0-1-3-1-5-REAR-WHEEL-BEARING-HUB-ABS-SENSOR-1999-2005-NEW/171248077419?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D8403a83dd89a4a88929f3baeb92e5a37%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D333083509506%26itm%3D171248077419&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

Not sure whether to change the bearing as I only have a mot advisory and it is not noisy even though I have ordered the part. Just curious about the best chisel to use to remove the bearing after hub nuts are taken off and torque settings for the hubs as this can affect the life of the bearings, is it 160nm?

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Sorry to say that the faulty bearing I had was from Car Spares Direct, your seller. Even though their address is shown as Great Portland Street, London their returns address is in Essex and is the same as several other e bay motor spares sellers including Bahuha who I also bought a faulty bearing from.

Yours may be fine just be sure when you fit it and you have the wheel on that you try it for play-you cannot feel the play with the bearing in your your hands, you need the wheel radius leverage for it to be felt.

Getting the bearing out is as follows. Loosen the bolts but do not remove them. Use a lump hammer to bang loose the bearing, one side then the other and then the opposing two bolts. The bolts have special large flanges that the socket bears on. This will only work if your bolts are at the back. If they are inside the brake drum (as the original poster) then I am not sure, but he descibes how to do this on an 09 Yaris.

The torque for the hub nuts is 38ft lbs or 51NM so not incredibly tight.

Good luck with it-my experience of these things is that it is better just to do it at a convenient time, without the pressure of a pending MOT and when the weather is kind, also if the bearing is bad you can send it back as you could just put the old one back on for a while.

 

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I guess there is nothing to lose as I want to try something more interesting than servicing. My confidence is increasing I just changed the yaris rear wiper, though I needed an impact wrench and a wiper pulley to do it.

I was aware that a small percentage of their bearings car spares direct where bad but most people seemed happy with their bearings. So the hug nuts are low torque and come out from the back. The bearing they gave does not seem to have been returned, looks excellent and sparkly. Haynes book has no info on bearings but a lot on breaks:

 

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The only way to get experience is to do stuff but if you take your time and dont rush and break things it will be fine. Just be sure to safely block up the car as well as jacking it up. Also you need a tiny flat screwdriver to prise a little plastic tag down in order to pull out the ABS sensor plug. If you look at the socket on your new hub you can see where the plastic clip on the plugs fits, which helps to get the right spot. Good luck.

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"I was aware that a small percentage of their bearings carspares-direct where bad but most people seemed happy with their bearings. So the hug nuts are low torque and come out from the back. The bearing they gave does not seem to have been returned, looks excellent and sparkly. Haynes book has no info on bearings but a lot on breaks"

You cannot trust e bay about feedback - I left negative feedback for my faulty bearing from carspares-direct and the way they tried to hide behind the terms of the e bay listing to avoid a refund. Eventually I got e bay to force the refund but without the return postage. This showed as negative feedback on carspares-direct feedback and my feedback left for others for a couple of months and then just dissappeared! Note they do not accept refunds after 14 days apart from the qualified mechanic nonsense.

See below their Terms at the bottom of their e bay site:-

Warranty
Returns

IMPORTANT WARRANTY INFO: Warranty is ONLY valid if the item is fitted by a fully qualified mechanic. We will ask for a letter from the mechanic with the business letterhead for proof.

We will need a full report detailing how the part has been diagnosed as faulty and without this letter we are unable to make any warranty claims.

The length of warranty varies on the items we sell, but all start from date of purchase(please keep proof and date of purchase recorded and safe).

There is NO WARRANTY on items that have been fitted incorrectly and we don't acceptclaims for labour on faulty goods that are returned.

NOWARRANTY CLAIM ON PARTS THAT HAVE BEEN FITTED BY NON QUALIFIED MECHANICS

Please use a trackable return service and keep the receipt.

Our warranty will only cover a replacement for any faulty item, and not a refund. No refunds can be issued after 14 days from the purchase date and may ask for the item to be return for inspection too.

Our warranty is limited liability for product only and doesnt cover labour /fitting / inconvenience / car hire/ breakdown charges or any other damage.

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I wish I read your post before, spending more time on the avensis forum as I had to change a mirror unit. I just hope it is OK...🤕

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I found all the torque values and some stuff on front hub bearings:

#

 

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15606159364215678669592489976398.thumb.jpg.b2508b6383e1305e47b964e853288d02.jpg

 

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I got the drum off, though I had the handbrake on a couple of hold on springs fell out, not really sure how to put them on, spring very tight?

So I then took of the hub nuts, no problem. But the hub is really stuck tried to hammer the nuts but not enough space behind the wheel.

Then I put the wheel on, and hammered it with a dead blow hammer till very tired.

So no luck, I do not know what to do next is there a tool I can use.

Wife has her driving test next week, she is not happy. 

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I think you have to put the hub nuts back on but do not fully tighten them and leave say 4/5 mm slack. Use these with a socket extension on and a lump hammer to work from side to side. These bolts have a big flange that the socket bears on.

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The hub had a lot of rust at the back, I had to remove the rust from the hub nuts using a larger socket and then turning it before the correct size was fitted.

I think I must be doing something wrong. Maybe you will have an idea  about what I am doing wrong:

 

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15611241787457614673060196037254.thumb.jpg.c8c11fab859014350cd7c9dacb0f57ba.jpg

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Update day 3 of working on car

 

I did a 2 day crash course on drum brakes and managed to get the 2 springs back on, maybe a little crude and unorthodox my way but the brake is working. Though I still have the old bearings they seem to have gone quiet. Even painted the drum silver with some car paint. So the car is ready for the wives driving test.

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Hi, Try coming at it from the side, using a wedge of sorts, between inner and outer flanges, It looks like your hitting the inner flange, which is part of the axle beam.

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