Rear Demister

[vmax1]

My rear demister has decided not to work. :(

The switch on the dash works OK and lights up. I've checked the fuse and it's OK.

Before I start dismantling the tailgate, is there anywhere else that I should look first?

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Geoff

[Starensis]

Your rear screen operates via a relay. Your switch on dash supplies the feed to switch relay to provide power to the screen.

First of all, check if you have supply at screen ( use 12V tester ). One connection is an earth the other +ve.

Check this out first & let me know what you get. Also let me know your model & year.

[vmax1]

Your rear screen operates via a relay. Your switch on dash supplies the feed to switch relay to provide power to the screen.

First of all, check if you have supply at screen ( use 12V tester ). One connection is an earth the other +ve.

Check this out first & let me know what you get. Also let me know your model & year.

Bear with me, electrics is my weak point. If my Clarke meter is to be believed then I'm getting 25.5 Volts when making contact with a bands across the screen. This can't be right can it? Where should I make contact?

It's 1.8 GS - 1999.

Thanks.

[Starensis]

Your rear screen operates via a relay. Your switch on dash supplies the feed to switch relay to provide power to the screen.

First of all, check if you have supply at screen ( use 12V tester ). One connection is an earth the other +ve.

Check this out first & let me know what you get. Also let me know your model & year.

Bear with me, electrics is my weak point. If my Clarke meter is to be believed then I'm getting 25.5 Volts when making contact with a bands across the screen. This can't be right can it? Where should I make contact?

It's 1.8 GS - 1999.

Thanks.

Across the 2 wires ( disconnected ) which connect to the screen should be 12 Volts. You will get a spurious reading with them connected to the screen.

If you do not have 12 Volts ( with engine running & switched on ), you will need to check for +ve across Rear defogger fuse in Dash relay block which should be a 40 Amp. If you have +ve 12 volts at fuse then your circuit from switch to fuse is OK.

Try this & let me know what you get.

[vmax1]

Thanks Starensis,

I'm off on a shopping trip today but I'll try this when I get back if it's dry.

I assume that I need to take the trim off to access the connectors as I can't see them as is.

Regards,

Geoff

[purvesh81]

The boot trim come off easily enough, watch out for the screw where the handle area is (on the inside)...just pull after that, watch the clips!

[vmax1]

Thanks Gents,

I found the problem as soon as I popped of the trim panel.

The connector on one side of the screen has become detached. Can this be re-soldered with ease or should I be looking for a "professional" repair here?

Regads,

Geoff

[vmax1]

Thanks Gents,

I found the problem as soon as I popped of the trim panel.

The connector on one side of the screen has become detached. Can this be re-soldered with ease or should I be looking for a "professional" repair here?

Regads,

Geoff

I can't repair it and a professional says he has had limited success due to the loading on it. He has suggested a new screen! Yipes! Looks like I'll have to use my door mirrors for the next month or so.

Geoff

[vmax1]

I can't repair it and a professional says he has had limited success due to the loading on it. He has suggested a new screen! Yipes! Looks like I'll have to use my door mirrors for the next month or so.

Geoff

Someone has suggested some type of electrical paint to reattach the connector. Has anyone had experience with this?

Geoff

[EastLondonGuy]

I can't repair it and a professional says he has had limited success due to the loading on it. He has suggested a new screen! Yipes! Looks like I'll have to use my door mirrors for the next month or so.

Geoff

Someone has suggested some type of electrical paint to reattach the connector. Has anyone had experience with this?

Geoff

I have got the identical problem on my 2003/52 1.8VVTi 5 Dr (last of old shape). Light for rear demister turns on but it does not clear the rear screen.

[Starensis]

If the connector tag has become detached from the glass, you can have a go at soldering back on as this is what the Glass Manufacturers do, hence it falling off.

I have soldered quite a few, however, not sure how long they last.

Have you checked your insurance? You are usually covered for replacement & all you pay is the excess.

If you can get it changed for £50 excess, do it. If not, try soldering.

[vmax1]

If the connector tag has become detached from the glass, you can have a go at soldering back on as this is what the Glass Manufacturers do, hence it falling off.

I have soldered quite a few, however, not sure how long they last.

Have you checked your insurance? You are usually covered for replacement & all you pay is the excess.

If you can get it changed for £50 excess, do it. If not, try soldering.

Thanks Starensis,

I have considered the insurance policy but it states the replacement of damaged screens & windows so I might not be lucky.

However, all is not lost, I stumbled across a product on the Web from speeding.co.uk

It's called Permatex electrically conductive rear screen heater tab adhesive. I'll try this at the weekend and let you know if it works.

Regards,

Geoff

[EastLondonGuy]

If the connector tag has become detached from the glass, you can have a go at soldering back on as this is what the Glass Manufacturers do, hence it falling off.

I have soldered quite a few, however, not sure how long they last.

Have you checked your insurance? You are usually covered for replacement & all you pay is the excess.

If you can get it changed for £50 excess, do it. If not, try soldering.

Thanks Starensis,

I have considered the insurance policy but it states the replacement of damaged screens & windows so I might not be lucky.

However, all is not lost, I stumbled across a product on the Web from speeding.co.uk

It's called Permatex electrically conductive rear screen heater tab adhesive. I'll try this at the weekend and let you know if it works.

Regards,

Geoff

I have got the same problem, however I noticed yesterday when my car was steamed, that if I switched on the rear demister and left it on for 10 minutes, then around the demister lines a little had cleared (around 1 mm or something) whuch I assume is not good? On my old Honda Civic, within 1 minutes things would begin to clear up. Are the Avantsis slow at clearing up?

[vmax1]

If the connector tag has become detached from the glass, you can have a go at soldering back on as this is what the Glass Manufacturers do, hence it falling off.

I have soldered quite a few, however, not sure how long they last.

Have you checked your insurance? You are usually covered for replacement & all you pay is the excess.

If you can get it changed for £50 excess, do it. If not, try soldering.

Thanks Starensis,

I have considered the insurance policy but it states the replacement of damaged screens & windows so I might not be lucky.

However, all is not lost, I stumbled across a product on the Web from speeding.co.uk

It's called Permatex electrically conductive rear screen heater tab adhesive. I'll try this at the weekend and let you know if it works.

Regards,

Geoff

Got the tab adhesive but I can't use it!

It must be applied in the temperature range of 10 - 24 deg C! :ffs: