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Joylove

2000 Toyota Rav4.2 1Azfe Throttle Body And Icv Idle Control Valve Clea

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Joylove    0

If you have a bad idle on you RAV4, chances are the Idle Control Valve is gummed up. It needs cleaning. DIY should take about 3 hours.

This engine is not drive-by-wire like the 2003+ cars, but you are cleaning in the same area.

You will need

1) Throttle body or carb cleaner - must be teflon safe, brake cleaner will not do.

2) 10, 12 sized sockets and an extension

3) WD40 or bolt loosener spray to loosen some welded in screws

4) Large + headed screwdrivers (not Pozidrive)

5) big grips and regular pliers

6) Rag or toothbrush

7) I needed to replace gasket 22215-28041 (see pictures - the one with the metal mesh) and screws 90467-07194*3

8) Since I had access and they are cheap I replaced TB gasket 22271-28020 and battery cover clips 90467-07195*5 90467-07194*1

9) A number 12 spanner for the accelerator cable.

Start

Disconnect the battery using the number 10 ratchet.

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Use the big grips to release the jubilee clip on the bottom of the hose that routes fresh air into the TB. It has a plastic covered lock. My plastic covered clip was slightly damaged (bent) and needed a bit of straightening with pliers. I may have unplugged a couple of other plugs or hoses too, I forget.

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Locked

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Remove the top jubilee clip on the same hose and move the hose out of the way so you can work.

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The TB butterfly is now exposed.

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Use the number 12 ratchet and extension to undo the three bolts holding the TB in place.

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Unplug the two plugs at the back to allow you to swing the TB round to access the ICV screws.

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If you can unscrew them there then that's fine. Mine were welded in, and the TB needed removing from the car (accelerator cable, 3 clipped-on hoses) and a hefty amount of WD40 applying. The screws are super soft, so make sure your + screwdriver bit is exactly right or you'll round out the screws and be in big trouble.

I unclipped the three hoses, used the number 12 spanner and pliers to remove the accelerator cable and removed the TB and ICV assembly.

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Got the last screw out and disassembled the ICV from the TB.

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Grimy.

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Clean the TB with the cleaner, make sure you open the butterfly and clean the edges and the hinges. TB cleaner leaves a mess on the drive, try to do it over a drain.

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After cleaning the ICV with TB cleaner. Make sure to move the rotating part back and forth with the tip of your finger and clean it all. Let it soak in TB cleaner, shake it. Be generous with the cleaner. (Do the TB first in case you run out)

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This gasket was shot and needed replacing, as did the three knackered screws holding the TB.

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To reassemble simply read this post from bottom to top :)

EDIT: Sorry about the cropped title :)

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crofter    85

Thanks for sharing that bob,hope you get the parts you need OK

Del

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Big Kev    513

Much as it's maybe not relevant to wife's 2004, Bob, much complimentarianisms on posting/thoroughness thereof. Pictorial guide excellent, but to coin the English rantings of an aging mechanic on here....WEAR BLOODY GLOVES !!!! (Ah know...me too...ah hate them with a vengeance...)

Big Kev :thumbsup:

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Joylove    0

Much as it's maybe not relevant to wife's 2004, Bob, much complimentarianisms on posting/thoroughness thereof. Pictorial guide excellent, but to coin the English rantings of an aging mechanic on here....WEAR !Removed! GLOVES !!!! (Ah know...me too...ah hate them with a vengeance...)

Big Kev :thumbsup:

I've run out of gloves, but I do wear them most times when dealing with muck and greases. I've recently converted after a skin irritation from LNS grease left me with dry peeling skin :censor:

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anchorman    258

Nice work.

I will pin it when I get chance but I'm limping with a duff graphic card. New one should be here later in the week and I'll send you your file :thumbsup:

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Joylove    0

OK so ICV and TB are now back together and the car still won't idle. Here's the symptoms.

This is absolutely repeatable, and feels like a software adjustment routine.

1) Engine running and off choke.

2) Raise revs on accelerator to ~2000PRM for say 10s to simulate driving revs.

3) Release accelerator

4) Engine revs drop to ~800RPM

5) Car lowers revs to ~400RPM and almost stalls

6) Car blips throttle to say 1100RPM

7) Repeat steps 4, 5, 6 two more times over a few seconds

8) car gives up and settles at ~800RPM for 10s

9) car lowers revs to ~400RPM and almost stalls

10) car sits in a loop 8, 9

It looks like it wants to lower the RPM below a comfortable 800RPM.

Could this be an old sluggish Lambda sensor (pre cat)? faulty MAF? faulty ICV? I'll try and get a generic OBD2 code reader on it for the first time after work if it's not raining, and squirt in some WD40 to check for an air leak.

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Joylove    0

How would I know if my crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve was bad? Do they go bad on the 1AZFE?

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anchorman    258

You should be able to blow through it one way (Out). I did have one somewhere I think?

Remind me to look at weekend.

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Joylove    0

OK So my J2534 adaptor arrived and I have Techstream up and running.

It is giving me codes

P1135 A/F sensor heater cct (bank 1 sensor 1)

P1155 A/F Sensor heater Circuit malfunction (Bank 2 sensor 2)

Which return when I clear them.

I have read all 14 threads on these posts, and from this diagram, I have made the following identifications.

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I understood from another thread that a good sensor should read ~15 Ohms and a faulty one is open circuit.

I know how to fly my Fluke perfectly, and have tried to measure all four O2 sensors. On all 4 sensors on all 4 pins with the engine off, on all 6 combinations of measurements I read open circuits.

1) Which wires should read ~15 Ohms?

2) Should the O2 sensor be powered up during the measurements?

3) Are my position identifications correct?

Thanks

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Joylove    0

Just to wrap this up, all 4 sensors were faulty, now replaced and the idle is sorted. :yahoo:

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Big Kev    513

Just to wrap this up, all 4 sensors were faulty, now replaced and the idle is sorted. :yahoo:

Cor Stroof, Roberto....all 4 were Jacob's Crumbly Biscuits at the same time....? Stay out of the bookie's mate.....

As a matter of interest, x4.....expensive...?

Big Kev :eek:

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Joylove    0

Well, first the ECU was reporting B1S1 and B2S2 as duff, but all 4 measured Open Circuit on the heater, and running Open Loop. B2S1 and B1S2 were running closed loop, with no reported faults.

Changed B1S1 and B2S2 and they went closed loop.

Then B2S1 went open loop with heater circuit faults :blink: So I thought %$( it, change them all and wipe the slate.

Guessing here that the error checking/reporting is done sequentially, or that the four sensors are compared and with two good ones it detected two bad ones after.

So for all 4 to replace, Genuine Denso from WorldCarParts.co.uk £349.56 including 2 lots of £6.65 shipping. Had to buy a special socket too, about £7 on eBay, and a can of PlusGas. Copper anti-seize is included with the sensors.

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GJM    1

I had the exact same issue, all 4 needed replacing but I still have stalling issues, looks like need to go down the path of throttle bodies etc....or is there an idle adjustment that would help, RAV has around 65k

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Uncle_P    13

I'm just bumping this thread because it's something I might have to do shortly. The Rav doesn't stall, but sometimes the revs seem to drop too low. I'm not a very experienced mechanic, so I think this one will be a garage trip.

I've changed the air filter and it's not made much difference. The plugs were changed by Mr T at the last service. My symptoms aren't as bad as some of those described above. Are there any other simple fixes I should try before taking it to my local garage for an ICV and MAF clean out? What's the cleaning fluid to use? Can I squirt some directly into the air intake?

Any help gratefully received as always!

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