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2.0 D4D 2004 Dies When Hot, Don't Start When Hot


the_dragon_no1
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Hello.

Have pain in the *** problem with my rav4.

at first it was just hard to start when engine was warm, now it is that, AND it will go in "safe mode" - check engine+(the other warning light i cant remember now, XXX/XXX), when it reach regular warm engine temp.
before it just dies on me... than i have to wait hours and hours before it will start again..


example.1:
Today i was going for a ride, started just perfect right away (cold car, cold outside), check engine light still lit after last drive.....
Driving along for 20 minutes or so, go home again, let the car warm up proper, and right about when the temp gauge is at "default warm engine level", it goes in safe mode for a few minutes before it dies...

example.2:
if the car is just a little warm, and i stop the car (ignition off) for a few minutes, it will be hard to start.
if the car is just a little warm, and i stop the car (then turn the ignition ON right away, not start) it will start just fine..

Regarding line two in example.2. in particular, Got a feeling this could be related to the scv valves, what do you think ?

Have ordered a diagnose tool, but not here just yet.


Any ideas where to start without swapping out parts after parts ? (currently unemployed, not not rich i would say.....)


Cheers

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Hi ronni,

This could be an scv problem but could also be many other things as well. I would hang on until you get your code reader and retrieve any stored codes, it will give you a lot better idea as to what's going on.

regards colin

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Had same issues - but did get MIL light on and codes suggested SCV valves.

Replaced and now spot on - no issues starting when hot or going into limp mode.

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Ok thanks. .

Does anyone know just how the scv valves work ?

And a little side question: do these cars have som sort of feed pump in the diesel tank or not ?

Thanks

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Ok, got my code reader today..

first of, yesterday my airbag light came on in the dash, and still there :? hmm

anyways, just did a reading, and got an p0093 (Large fuel leak detected).
can't see any leaks from tank all the way to engine, not around filter, egr, and so on...

What do you think ? SVC ? injectors ?

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Hi ronni,

do you have any kind of tuning chip fitted to your rav?, the reason I ask is because I once had a dragontune chip fitted to mine and during the process of setting it up I also had the P0093 code come up which was caused by over pressure in the fuel rail making the over pressure sensor trip, adjusting the setting of the chip cured the problem.

Was P0093 the only code that was present ?.

colin

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Hi

No i have no chip tuning at the moment, i had a "under the dash" tuning box some time ago, but after a year or so using it i suddenly could have around 2 bar turbo pressure if i floored it , so it was removed... And the car was not acting up like it is now btw. only yhe boost thing.

Yeah the p0093 was the only one showing up, i really almost had expected more than just one.. but...

shouldn't the airbag light show up as a code as well ?

Reading like crazy online to get this figured out, an all ends are leading towards the scv valves it looks like, but since they are preatty pricey i wanna do as much research as possible before/if i order them new. (ps. what is the original part number on them ?

If i get them, i have been looking at these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Denso-Diesel-Suction-Control-Valve-Kit-SCV-Toyota-Rav-4-2-0-/190884892239?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c71a04e4f


Thanks!

thanks

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Hi ronni,

those look like the correct scv's in the link but I am still thinking this might be something else, probably not what you want to hear but I think it would be worth taking it to a Toyota dealer and putting it on their diagnostic equipment, it will give a much more detail as to what is happening regarding fuel rail pressure and injector operation / pressure sensor activation etc. it might cost £50 or so but may pinpoint the problem.

Not sure if airbag codes will show up on entry level code readers or not, but you would almost certainly not be able to reset airbag/abs type fault codes with them anyway. (the guy who will probably know is gjnorthall hopefully he will be reading and give some pointers)

colin

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No no. .. don't say stuff like that. lol.

But yeah you might be right. Didn't know that got more detailed codes/errors, but now i know, and will consider that.

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  • 3 weeks later...

well back from a proper diagnostic testing...
cylinder 4 injector was showing low values, meaning the injector gotta be replaced... cylinder 2 was kinda bad, but will maybe last abit more.
Could be scv related as well he said, but he recommend me changing at least the injector on cyl 4 first..

So as i'm kinda running at a Tight budget these days, where could i get cheap as possible injectors ?
Is it stupid buying used one on something like ebay(uk) ? i know there is a somewhat of a risk off course.. But really just cant buy high quality new ones right now :/
And anyone got any number to look for, so im shure it will fit ?

Thanks alot

And happy new year to you :)

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Hi ronni,

Have you tried running a can of BG244 through the system, It cost about £25 a can but it might give things a bit of a clear out and is cheaper than injectors . It made mine run a hell of a lot better.

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Hi ronni,

Have you tried running a can of BG244 through the system, It cost about £25 a can but it might give things a bit of a clear out and is cheaper than injectors . It made mine run a hell of a lot better.

Hi

No i have not. Reading good reviews on it at the moment! But kinda feel it is beyond the time for that kinda stuff, as i can hardly drive the car anymore without it going dead. And i read the BG product could take up to a 100miles of driving for a proper cleaning.. i can hardly run my car for aprox 30 minutes before it dies out.

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Btw, on what side of the engine is cylinder number four ?

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  • 1 month later...

Update::

Replacing injector nr4 (the bad one) cured all my starting problems! No more error codes, starts right up (cold AND hot), and runs like a dream now! Have not done anything to the scv's other then test them with a 12v Battery. The number on the new injector did Not match the old ones but no re-coding had to be done afterwards! (Lucky me.. closest coder place is a 4 hour drive away...)

I also changed to a new Battery and new glow plugs, but no doubt bad injector = Hard to start when warm!

Also running a can of bg244 now to hopefully clean up the other three injectors abit now :)

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Btw regarding injector values/diagnosis.

Toyota told me they have a tolerance from +3 to -3... my bad one had +3.321. And it was enough to couse all these problems..

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