All Activity

Haven't seen anything. As said it' probably just access to view the Vin. Although it looks as though something should be placed in it when you lift the flap. I now also note that there's one on the Yaris as well.

It's doable 🙂 one of the easier mods, just choose decent quality ones

Bought a 2021 Yaris Excel last month. Love everything about it except the lighting in the cabin and boot. The manual lists the bulb type as W5W. Can I swap in some W5W 6000K to get brighter lighting?

It will be just for a viable VIN In theory the more VIN that get marked on a vehicle, it should discourage vehicle ringing as it makes it harder for a thief to change the ID of a stolen vehicle. In practice it's pretty rare anyone checks the VIN when purchasing a used vehicle other then the one visible in the bottom corner viewed through the windscreen.

You don't get something for nothing (unless you're a thief), and that applies to energy as much as anything else. Aircon compressors consume energy in order to run. Period. It doesn't matter whether the compressor is belt-driven, as is usual on non-hybrids (which creates drag on the engine thereby using fuel), or electrically driven as on hybrids. The electricity is either generated by the ICE or comes from regeneration (which is 'free' but, if used by the a/c compressor, it is not available for the electric motor). However the system works, it uses energy and ultimately impacts fuel consumption. Modern car aircon systems are more efficient than they used to be but they still use energy. One way to reduce the energy consumption is to use the recirculation feature on the HVAC system. Particularly if the ambient temperature is high. This because the system doesn't need to work as hard to keep already cooled air cool compared with cooling air from outside the car which is much warmer (so it needs less energy). This advice is actually in the manual (for my Corolla, but same logic applies generally). It is certainly true that the system needs to be used regularly to keep the seals lubricated; I've heard of compressors actually seizing on cars where the system hasn't been used for months over winter. Whether it needs to be on all the time is a matter of opinion. I run mine for a while every week but not all the time when I don't actually need it. Been doing this for years, never had a problem, never had an aircon service or even a gas top up. A tip that is often given, and which I follow, is to turn the aircon off a few minutes before the end of a journey (with recirculation off). The purpose is to allow the condenser and pipework to return to ambient temperature before you switch off (and the fan stops). If you switch off when the system is still cold you typically get condensation inside the condenser and pipework (which is why you sometimes get a puddle of water under the car). This has two potential unwanted consequences. The first is corrosion in the condenser (they aren't cheap). The second is build up of bacteria which is not only unhealthy but also smells. I believe that some cars now have a 'smart' HVAC system that keeps the fan running for a while but I don't remember seeing anything in my manual to suggest that it is fitted to my car. I've been following this tip for years. Never needed sanitiser because it doesn't smell.

Took it ro the guy in Warwick. Couldn't find anything wrong with it. Took it to another place in Coventry who again confirmed no fault codes but said it had improved since fully charging the battery and speculating the battery may have a fault which is drawing current away from the EPS motor. The afternoon I dropped off the car it was quite warm and the steering was worse than ever. Picking up the car this morning it felt initially better, maybe 50% but not right. However later in the day in warmer temperatures it was back to awful again. I'm going to put in a new quality battery and if its the same I'll have to get rid of it. Thing has cost me nearly 400 pounds so far and I'm no nearer curing it.

Two years for AC regas it’s not necessary. Any sanitising on ac system is actually worse than if you don’t sanitised at all. Very important is to change the cabin filter every 10k miles or 12 months and not as recommended longer intervals. Also for those who doesn’t like ac in car its not necessary to run it just to keep everything working. This is simply a myth. Best practices is to keep the hvac system in auto mode with ac ON all the time if you are ok with in car air conditioning. Set and forget works great. For Toyota hybrids it is crucial to use heating in winter and ac cooling in summer to maintain properly hybrid battery temperature. Fuel additives also no need on two years old car, unless you drove crazy high miles and do use supermarket fuels which aren’t a good thing. To sum up the dealer in question simply tried to up sell extras.

Hi Collin, welcome to our forum

Hi, this sounds like exhaust brackets broken. You need to look all along the exhaust pipes , find the broken bracket and fix it , either welding or with clips. Here an example. Other possible rattling noises may come from exhaust heat shielding, again all along the pipes.

Hi Alan, does it not show anything in your owners manual.

Hi Kiran,while it might not be the most powerful car for mountainous terrain, it should be absolutely fine for a trip through Germany, Austria and Switzerland, especially considering you only have 2 people and basic luggage. The Aygo Sports likely has a 1.0L or 1.3L engine. These are known for being fuel efficient but not the most powerful. You might find steeper inclines a bit challenging, requiring lower gears and more throttle control.The Aygo isn't an SUV, so ground clearance might be lower than some other vehicles. Be cautious about very rough roads or unpaved areas. Stick to well maintained roads.Plan your route, avoid routes known for very steep inclines if possible. Look for major highways and scenic routes that cater to all types of vehicles.The lighter the car, the easier it will handle inclines.Gear down and maintain revs, On steeper inclines, anticipate needing to shift down to a lower gear to maintain momentum. Keep the revs a little higher than usual to give the engine enough power.Take it slow and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Mountain regions often have lower speed limits anyway, so you will have plenty of time to appreciate the views. Overall, with a little planning and adjustment, your Aygo Sports should be perfectly fine. Enjoy your trip. Hope this helps.

Ernie B this is useful and appreciated , thank you. I will check with my local Toyota dealer ASAP. My PHEV RAV 4 only had done just over 9,000 miles in 3 years, an incredibly low mileage when I bought it last week. But all documented and Toyota FSH with it. Any high RAV 4 high mileages out there ? I guess this is another thread 🙂. Anyway thank you so much for that info. Dave

You fitted a lower speed ratings that's the reason, need to be equal or better speed ratings.

No worries my man. I really hope it works for you. Having remote locking is such a luxury taken for granted by many. Good luck, always happy to help when I can Pete😁

Hi Ondřej, @flash22 Is the best Person for this. Hope this helps.

My other claim to fame was polishing ALL the men's toilets for Princess Margaret, the walls and doors were unpainted aluminium. The result was you could see yourself wherever you looked. It never occurred to us to lock off 3 or the 4. Or as they did years later, paint them. We even had a false wall built to hide the urinals. Six years later I had to flush Princess Anne's toilet- the flush failed and there was a panic to get it fixed. In the event she never went.

Hi Dylan,its likely that it may be something simple like loose exhaust components which is a common problem in many cars, including Priuses. Check for loose hangers, damaged pipes, or a failing catalytic converter. However there are a few other issues that may also cause this so I have also included these. Worn engine or transmission mounts,these worn mounts can cause the engine/transmission to move more than usual, creating a rattle.Heat shields,these metal shields protecting parts from engine heat can become loose or damaged and start to rattle. Hybrid battery issues, less common than exhaust problems, but a loose component or internal battery issue could cause rattling especially unlikely if the sound is metallic. Listen carefully and pay attention to where the sound originates and if it changes with speed or engine RPM.Look underneath the car for loose or damaged parts, focusing on the exhaust and engine mounts.Carefully tap components with a rubber mallet if you have one to see if it replicates the rattle.If you are uncomfortable checking these yourself then I would take your Prius to a mechanic, preferably one familiar with hybrids. While the above reasons for rattling apply, a mechanic familiar with Prius systems might be best suited to diagnose and potentially fix the problem, especially for the hybrid-specific possibilities.Hope this helps.

I have been through this several times by scanning the QR code or entering a code (Head unit says use 'My T' App but I am using 'My Toyota' as that is correct for my vehicle). I get no confirmation I have achieved anything and it still asks me to scan a QR or enter code if I enter the 'login to multimedia' menu again! Apart form that everything seems to work and I can use my connected phone for media or Android Auto. Is it just another example of some pretty poor app / software development?

Be sure to check with your insurance company before you change the spec of any tyres you might fit. Many years ago I had a 1999 Corolla and I wanted to fit 'S' rated tyres (max speed 112mph) instead of the OEM 'V' rated (max speed 149mph) tyres. I asked my insurance company and they said it would void my insurance. "OEM spec only" was the mantra.

Thanks brother this is golden! Buying a key with a chip this evening. If it all goes well I'll defo be tipping you through paypal later on, rightfully so as you mentioned this will save me almost hundreds. I'll worry at cutting the blade later. Lame question on my end, re step 9 above, that's done on the new "dumb" remote rather than the working one. Correct? Again thanks a mill. Crossing fingers

Economy yesterday on the run from Loch Ness down to Glenrothes averaged 26.5mpg with worst/best of 25.1/30.2. Given the terrain it’s not too bad. Expect better on Sunday heading back to Huddersfield.

The 73 models are few and far between. The Highlander was withdrawn from the UK about a year ago so only a handful with the upgraded infotainment came to the UK.

I have a Yaris Mark1, 1.3 T3 from 2004. I believe that the Yaris Mk1, shares this layout across multiple Toyota models, including the Avensis as your Sister has but I'm not 100% sure about that. The later models of Yaris use a slightly different shape key. I will do my best to write down and explain how I did it. Given that you already have a working remote, you'll want to add another rather than wipe all and relearn. 1. Unlock the car and open the drivers door. Sit in the car. The other doors and boot must be shut. You can open the window on the driver door if you want before you start. 2. With your working key, put the key into the ignition and pull it back out immediately( don't turn your ignition on) 3. Shut the drivers door, open, shut and open the door 4. Put the working key into the ignition and pull it back out again(again don't turn ignition on) 5. Shut the door, open, shut and open again 6. Put the key in the ignition and then shut the door 7. This part seems to get people in a tangle, you turn the ignition on and off depending on the mode you want. This is the modes(that I know of) *1 time* - Keeps known remotes and adds new *2 times* - Erases all known remotes and adds new *5 times* - Confirms how many remotes are already registered. The lock cycles denote how many remotes are registered (1 cycle =1 remote and so on. 5 times means no remotes are registered) I selected 2 times as I wanted to erase all known fobs from the past and register a new fob. You will want to turn the ignition on and off once as you want to retain remotes already known and add your new one. 8. Once you select your mode you want, pull the key out. The locks should cycle to the mode selected. 9. Press and hold both lock and unlock for a few seconds then quickly press lock. The locks should cycle 1 time if it's done right or twice if you didn't manage it. Keep trying as you have around 10 seconds to do it. If you can't manage to do it, retry from step 1. I found that if you press both lock and unlock buttons quickly one after the other then hold lock for a second, that did it for me. It take a while to get the timing right so you might want to practice. 10. Once registered, open the driver door to finish. Then test. Hopefully this guide is helpful. I might have missed something but I literally wrote this at the top of my head. Happy to help further if needed

I think you have find Italian users.

Definitely yes and the maths says it well, I was hoping that in England the conversion was more common, but I made the mistake of not evaluating the fuel costs of this area maybe only in Italy we have the 'LPG mind conversion', spritmonitor says it all with the cost per 100km but the users have the 1.8, a bunch of people have the 1.5...and we are back to the main question 🙂 not a problem, I have to ask to someone who has/knows the LPG on the 1.5