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Yes, the compressor does not pump liquid... I didn't go into the 'state' of the refrigerant at various arts of the process... what I was really trying to get at is simply 'what is actually leaking'? Once a leak in the pipework occurs the liquid refrigerant will vent and boil off to the atmosphere very quickly indeed without trace and the only clue would be some of the compressor oil that get pulled out with it. As @Cyker says: So am I. I also wondered if the op was seeing the drain tube (pipe) dripping and thinking there was a leak.

Hello Craig, Welcome to our forum

I'm a bit curious about this liquid leak - The air con gas will only turn into a liquid when very cold or pressurized - Under normal atmospheric pressure and temperature it will revert to a gas. I don't know of another source of the AC pipes apart from Toyota, but a good AC specialist can fabricate some, usually using AC-grade rubber pipes rather than the normal aluminium ones though. When you say you can change them yourself, do you have something to remove all the gas first and put it back again afterwards?

Oooo! Glows in the dark, does it? And to think you always thought the ticking was your engine cooling down!!!

But it's as a gas going to the condenser and liquid from there to the evaporator inside the car. So the liquid line would be the latter pipe. Both pipes at the compressor will be gas.

Are you saying you can't charge on *public* chargers? I haven't had any issue with PodPoint, EVCharge (Rolec), BP, Fastned, Ionity or Gridserve (all the ones I have used so far) - the ONLY time I had an issue is when I forgot I had left a schedule set up in the car (the charge port light flashes green when you plug it in rather than going solid) To clarify the Octopus Inteligent Go issue, my understanding is you need EITHER a compatible car (which the BZ4X is NOT) OR a compatible charger (which the Ohme and Zappi are ) If you have a compatible charger, the car isn't part of the compatibility, Octopus communicate with the charger and the charger alone - all the car needs to be able to do is take the charge when the charger provides it (i.e. not have ANY schedules set up).

I bought a design spec but the first of my test drives was in a 23 reg excel as it was just as they were changing over. Next was 24 reg GR sport with only a few miles on the clock. I’m still having problems with neck and arm pain when driving. Didn’t notice anything on the test drives and they were about a hour at least. Never had it in any car I’ve driven. Had a lot of hire cars too. Don’t know whether steering wheel is a bit stiffer than I’m used to or whether my old muscles and joints don’t like changing from my 7year old Nissan Note which was very comfortable. Is there anything different about the Yaris.

I would remove and check the oil control valve's O-ring. Easy and cheap to replace yourself if they're perished. Picture taken a few years ago is from my Mk2 Yaris.

Yup, My new/old car has the old “will not close” issue with the wee box next to the handbrake. Did anybody find a fix or a workaround for this or should I attempt to have the cheek of god and ask Toyota to fix which was a manufactured fault? Thanks

Can't help with which pipe goes where but I've been following this thread with interest. Transported back to a Vauxhall Nova. Similar issue. Almost identical. Changed the MAF with a 3rd part one from eBay, then put the EGR valves in a bucket of petrol overnight and cleaned it with a toothbrush, changed the fuel filter, then swapped out the fuel pump. The latter made a big difference but not quite fixed. Still flat at higher revs. At that point I took the engine apart. Badly worn cam. Friend at a local garage put me a new cam kit on for 75 quid including fitting. This is the 90s though I was still shocked at the low cost. Problem sorted. Let us know how you get on. My bet is on the turbo or related. Pressure loss somewhere.

Starting problems ..success ! Very pleased . I followed the picture’s & instructions on here , re changing the worn ignition switch , as when I turned the key to start … silence / nothing . I replaced the relay & thought I’d cured it , but no. So today i changed the ignition switch ( eBay £17:99)problem solved !! . the only tricky part was the upper retaining screw , as it’s hard to reach & get too .you have to be very careful not to drop & lose the screw . One trick is to insert the key and jiggle it about to properly locate the switch , before !Removed! it in tight .. the post on here is great & helped loads & saved a big garsge bill

Yeah. My '19 still only has 35k miles on it so I'm thinking I'll hang on to it for as long as petrol is still available at the pumps.

That is just bags full of custard. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-Newtonian_fluid

At the risk of sounding daft, can you tell us exactly what pipe you are referring to? The aircon system has two obvious 'pipes' both of which connect to the compressor and both of which carry the same refrigerant as it circulates around. Is it like an oily leak you see? or do you mean something else.

Totally get that, but I'm sure the horn in the RAV4 and the Land cruisers also meet those legal requirements, so I'll have the horn that the Land cruiser has 😂

Not to annoy you 😉. The pip squeak horn meets legal requirements and the additional sounder meets the requirements for the alarm/immobiliser as long as it can utilise the pip squeak. I would think Thatcham are behind that.

what is the make, model and date on the side of the tyre ? when you say new tyres - as in brand new just fitted? if it is on its originals they may have just gone hard with age - the compound after 4-5 years starts to degrade if the car is driven 20-30 mph only locally, the tyres have never got hot and may have squared off, a motorway run and get some heat in them tyres it will also do the car some good to get it hot and the fluids flowing

Better than that. Our junction markings had been reset about 5 years ago but in the process the old markings remained. They returned in January and refreshed the old markings, the new and the old. The white line ran through a pot hole. Two weeks later the whole junction was resurfaced. At least the new markings are correct. They will also repair a reported pothole but not the one next to it.

So someone at Toyota went out of their way to split these two horn (sounder !!), marvellous. Thanks for that info 👍

No you can’t get at the horn without taking the bumper off because the air intake blocks your path. The alarm is much louder because it uses a second sounder. I’ll find you a photo. Stand by….. This is the feeble single vibrating disc; and this is the second one down under the passenger headlight;

It all depends on what app you are using on your phone and the way you have it setup tbh

Hi Thanks for that, il definitely keep an eye on it. It's never been serviced as it's only done under 300 miles. Thanks for your help.

Engine oil usually smells like fuel and this can trick you, definitely not a fuel as fuel is far away from the solenoid. Down the intake manifold and can’t reach further up. 👍

the Mk4 Yaris, as well as the E210 Corolla both, use LN type batteries which are calcium-flooded cells - technology marches on https://www.gs-yuasa.com/en/newsrelease/article.php?ucode=gs160315422530_238 the sos/fully connected services (DCM) didn't come in till late 18/19 in the rolla and 2020 on (mk4 Yaris) touch2 gen1 and 2, connected services was data over a phone connection which have all been but abandoned

That’s not fuel for sure but oil spill from service. Just clean with quality brake cleaner spray safe to use on plastics like wynns or holts and wipe any excess. Check after some time and you will see no more oily marks. If it’s oil from poor seals it will be vvti solenoid, but these does not leak at all. 👍