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That’s great I will take a look

CAT status is when the insurer writes off the car as uneconomical to repair. The car now becomes the property of the insurance company. The owner ( see below ) can always make an offer to the insurer to buy the car back and repair it themselves, but obviously it's now a CAT car. I don't know the answer to this. In the above example, when the insurer writes off a car, do they become the new owner? Example - you buy a brand new car for £20,000. It's written off next day buy a 3rd party as the repair cost is estimated £15,000. Your insurer pays out the full £20,000. You then make an offer of £10,000 to buy the car from the insurer, and you fix the car yourself... When the car was new, obviously you were the 1st registered owner and keeper. What's the status now - are you still the 1st owner/keeper or are you the 3rd? I haven't a clue how it works. Actually thinking on it - does the car become the property of your insurer or the 3rd party insurer when it's written off? I'd have guessed at it being the latter but again I haven't a scoobie.

Please post your impressions of the X after purchase. I have been considering whether to opt for one myself, but there are mixed opinions on them. At the moment the cons seem to outweigh the pros.😎

I've checked, and surprisingly, my car has an Efficient Ventilation Mode. There's a button, on the door, I push and down goes a window - amazing!

The place where my car is serviced always have to be told that 0W20 is Toyota's recommendation for the engine and is in the handbook. Apparently their supplier tells them it should 5W30 which they, I'm sure, ignore after I confirm 0W20. I've written before that most of those oil checkers are incorrect, in my experience.

Hello folks, I recently bought a Toyota Auris 2008 1.6 VVT-i TR model (manual), and I noticed that when the car reaches 40 miles per hour, it runs smoothly in 5th gear (2000 RPM). I just wanted to know whether this is normal. Additionally, my car runs perfectly fine up to a speed of 50 miles per hour with an engine RPM of around 2000. However, when I accelerate above 50 miles per hour, the engine RPM keeps rising and is about 3000 when the car reaches around 60 miles per hour. Is this a normal scenario, or do I need to have it checked by a mechanic? Please help.

The installation guide for that dashcam states: - i.e. it requests / requires to be connected to a permanent live. This, in turn, makes it the camera's responsibility to protect the [auxiliary] 12V battery which it has failed to do. So, to your wondering, I doubt that this model of dashcam is compatible with a modern Toyota hybrid ... If you were to install it on a switched live fuse (a fuse that's only live when the ignition is on) you would not be able to make use of the iQ's smart features making the smart dashcam potentially a waste of money.

I had a look last night, still able to inspect the data which gave the order date and paint colour (reassuring as we had changed the choice).

Hi Rich, as @yossarian247 has said above use a mobile dent repairer, you can bet if you leave it the dealer will look over the car when you come trade it in and reduce the trade in price. It isn't expensive and they can make it look as Hope this helps.

Agree with the Yossarain247. If the damage isn't fixed then yes you'd be wise to declare it to the dealer otherwise when you go to tradein, they may well turn around and say it's £400 worth of damage! Local dent magician / paintless dent removal should be able to make it disappear for around £60-£90.

Rich, I had a tiny dent on my passenger door. The best way to describe it was someone tapping the door lightly with a hole muffled punch. Just a very small depress and paint undamaged. You would not notice it until pointed out. It took the dentologist about 20 minutes and that included setting up a lamp to show the damage and repair. He removed a bung in the door, inserted a metal rod and like a water diviner fiddled around for a few minutes. How he could feel the depression I have no idea.

Please edit your profile to include the C-HR.

Think you need to read this thread from @CPN who has gone from a 115 hp Launch to a 130 hp.

I haven't worked out, yet, how far ahead the system detects a vehicle in front. I don't think it is much more than about 100m. Probably depends upon conditions and the size of the 'target' too. I have opted for the single dial setup with the drcc display on the right where it is clear and uncluttered.

Yes just has remote control card, service card, hybrid coaching and warning lights cards

If I go into DRCC in the Settings menu, then the sub-menus, there is an option to change acceleration when using the system (slow, medium or fast); that's how it is on my car anyway. That's what I was referring to. Not the button on the steering wheel that gives a choice of four settings for following distance.

Hi Roks ! After bleeding the cylinder, you can adjust the pedal travel, adjusting it's rod. All that you need is a 8mm spanner and another one 12 or 13mm. Undo the nut and adjust the rod by hand. I did this operation few times in order to adjust my pedal as I like to be.

It's best to hardwired to acc or plug into 12v lighter socket on hybrid. This is my setup so it doesn't use the 12v battery.

Do you have a local 'dent man'? A good one would probably be able to make the damage virtually invisible for not much money. When I used to work for a company who leased a fleet of vans we would get a dent repairer in to give each vehicle a once over before it went back at the end of the lease. He charged a fraction of the price the leasing company would have charged us if we'd sent one of their vehicles back damaged.

I don't think it's a swipe for Brexit at all. More like dire concerns at what can happen with EV and PHEV fires at sea and the inability of containment. Quite a few ferries (and life) has been lost due to fires that's started on the vehicle decks at sea so I would guess they are attempting rightly or wrongly to limit the possibilities by regulation. I do feel these regulations will eventually spread through the EU and may be to the UK

I don't have any particular knowledge of that specific dashcam. Connecting via the OBD port will allow the camera to draw power / operate while the car is switched off - i.e. not in Ready mode. This might be useful if you want to operate in so called "parking mode" but will, potentially, 'kill' the auxiliary battery in our hybrids in no time at all - which appears to be your experience. When a dashcam is fitted by a Toyota dealer it is not powered while the car is 'off'.

Just sent a little feedback to the dealer, couldn't stay quiet. Tried to be as nice as possible, but telling them I am not happy. Let's see what they say😀 Apologies if there are people here who work in this dealership. Won't mention names and the branch. One more time a big thank you to all of you who helped with ideas, comments, etc... Good stuff, guys "Good morning Just thinking and trying to understand what just happened..... This is very concerning and I am very disappointed how this was handled. Luckily there is no damages to the car Concerned, because one of your mechanics have left those harneses disconnected. I do understand mistakes do happen, and that's fine. Good there is no damages to the car Also concerned because the first thing I heard from "X" over the phone yesterday was "We don't know what is it! Would you bring the car over, please?" Really? You don't know your cars well? What does this speak about you as a Toyota dealer? I probably shouldn't trust you servicing my car if you can not recognise the cooling fan harneses from a picture of probably the most common Toyota engine Disappointed, because obviously I've been lied over the phone. "We don't know what is it!" By the time I heard this I already knew what the issue is and had plugged the cooling fans in. I would expect one of your mechanics to talk me through how to connect those harneses before I drive away, to avoid potentially overheating the engine. But no, someone decided to take the risk and not telling me anything... Also disappointed because, I was told those harneses have most likely fallen/disconnected themselves from vibration, because (most likely) the mechanic didn't push them well back in place. Another lie!!!! First - I tried to disconnected them to see how easy it is? Well it is not easy st all Second- there is no way 2 different harneses to disconnect themselves together - impossible! It is clear those have been left unplugged - one more time I do understand mistake do happen, and I am fine with that. The car is running well, never had lights on the dash, never had the temperature gauge rising, never had a reason to look under the hood, unless topping up windscreen liquid and checking the oil level every 5k miles. I wonder why wouldn't someone just say the truth, tell me how to plug the harneses in ( I did it myself before "X" called me anyway ) and simply apologize? Probably say, you will investigate and will make sure this will never happen again. Anyway, thank you for washing my car, and taking it in for a check up the very same day. I do appreciate it Thank you"

In my experience mine is incredibly reliable. I think Toyota must have improved the algorithm on the newer models. I had a 2021 Corolla on which the AHB was erratic to say the least, but the 2023 model is far better, in my experience. It's incredibly rare I ever need to intervene and, in the event of another car approaching, my high beam is usually off well before the other car has reacted and back on again as soon as they've passed. It's literally something I can set-and-forget now.

Toyota makes these preferences following extensive testing - far beyond any mechanic's knowledge or experience. As Toyota's preference is 0W-20, stay with that.

A little bump to keep things moving! 🙂