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Hi. Glad we could help out with your insurance this year. Regards, Dan.

Indeed, although with how much has been dumped on my roof sometimes I do wonder...

It probably frightened the “removed” out of them😂🤣

Not sure what your point is as there are no “wide wheel” options available an on the road cost with metalic paint will take you past 40k once vat is calculated

Dennis when the low fuel warning comes on there’s approximately 6lts left in the tank. Then the car will run until there’s no fuel left in the tank. So don’t run the tank dry, 6lts will take you another 50 miles at least and after that it’s squeaky bum time🤔😂. Never run your car until empty, get fuel into it ASAP after the low fuel warning comes on.

Hi, While workshop Sniffers are typically £200+ there are quiet a few budget air con sniffers around the £20 - £30 mark that get varying online reviews on the usuall selling sites. Wondered if anyone has used a budget one and can recommend it . Know there are UV dyes but they ( online) say a Sniffer is better .

It strikes me that Toyota have most likely cost engineered the latest prius PHEV in order to avoid buyers getting stung £2K by the UK government during the first 6 years of ownership. Who wants to go to work for a couple of months in order to give the government all of their "spending money"? ( spending money being defined as what is left in your pocket after tax, NI , mortgage, food, clothes, council tax , house bills and annual holiday) So the base model is well and truly below £40K. What value does the driver get for this £2K? erm... bragging rights? Silly as it sounds, it is actually better to buy your car and then buy the extras a month later because as far as I can see, the new cost of the car includes the extras? So.. wide wheels, metalic paint and seats which burn your bottom when the sun has been shining on them will end up costing you your weekly pint of beer for six years in addition to the extra cost of the extras themselves.

I’m just grateful cows don’t fly

When the fuel warning came on. I added a small amount that did not register. I tried the workaround but no change. The question is if the car believes it is out of fuel will it stop or will it continue normally?

As title, after picking up my car I was annoyed to find that they don't come with illuminated window switches so I sourced a new set of CHR item that are and that fit into the Ravs OEM, also comes with the illuminated mirror switch also The one on the left in the picture is the CHR one and the right obviously the standard RAV. It takes literally 5 minutes to do and is very simple to do also. Cost me originally well over £100! £50 collected from NG15 area of Nottingham

Here I am selling a full set of genuine Toyota 2019+ Rav4 rubber mats and boot mat, front mats lightly used in the winter and the rears neve really used, boot mat never had anything on it either. Rubber mats £30 Boot mat £20 Collection from NG15 area of Nottingham

Yes, the compressor does not pump liquid... I didn't go into the 'state' of the refrigerant at various arts of the process... what I was really trying to get at is simply 'what is actually leaking'? Once a leak in the pipework occurs the liquid refrigerant will vent and boil off to the atmosphere very quickly indeed without trace and the only clue would be some of the compressor oil that get pulled out with it. As @Cyker says: So am I. I also wondered if the op was seeing the drain tube (pipe) dripping and thinking there was a leak.

Hello Craig, Welcome to our forum

I'm a bit curious about this liquid leak - The air con gas will only turn into a liquid when very cold or pressurized - Under normal atmospheric pressure and temperature it will revert to a gas. I don't know of another source of the AC pipes apart from Toyota, but a good AC specialist can fabricate some, usually using AC-grade rubber pipes rather than the normal aluminium ones though. When you say you can change them yourself, do you have something to remove all the gas first and put it back again afterwards?

Oooo! Glows in the dark, does it? And to think you always thought the ticking was your engine cooling down!!!

But it's as a gas going to the condenser and liquid from there to the evaporator inside the car. So the liquid line would be the latter pipe. Both pipes at the compressor will be gas.

Are you saying you can't charge on *public* chargers? I haven't had any issue with PodPoint, EVCharge (Rolec), BP, Fastned, Ionity or Gridserve (all the ones I have used so far) - the ONLY time I had an issue is when I forgot I had left a schedule set up in the car (the charge port light flashes green when you plug it in rather than going solid) To clarify the Octopus Inteligent Go issue, my understanding is you need EITHER a compatible car (which the BZ4X is NOT) OR a compatible charger (which the Ohme and Zappi are ) If you have a compatible charger, the car isn't part of the compatibility, Octopus communicate with the charger and the charger alone - all the car needs to be able to do is take the charge when the charger provides it (i.e. not have ANY schedules set up).

I bought a design spec but the first of my test drives was in a 23 reg excel as it was just as they were changing over. Next was 24 reg GR sport with only a few miles on the clock. I’m still having problems with neck and arm pain when driving. Didn’t notice anything on the test drives and they were about a hour at least. Never had it in any car I’ve driven. Had a lot of hire cars too. Don’t know whether steering wheel is a bit stiffer than I’m used to or whether my old muscles and joints don’t like changing from my 7year old Nissan Note which was very comfortable. Is there anything different about the Yaris.

I would remove and check the oil control valve's O-ring. Easy and cheap to replace yourself if they're perished. Picture taken a few years ago is from my Mk2 Yaris.

Yup, My new/old car has the old “will not close” issue with the wee box next to the handbrake. Did anybody find a fix or a workaround for this or should I attempt to have the cheek of god and ask Toyota to fix which was a manufactured fault? Thanks

Can't help with which pipe goes where but I've been following this thread with interest. Transported back to a Vauxhall Nova. Similar issue. Almost identical. Changed the MAF with a 3rd part one from eBay, then put the EGR valves in a bucket of petrol overnight and cleaned it with a toothbrush, changed the fuel filter, then swapped out the fuel pump. The latter made a big difference but not quite fixed. Still flat at higher revs. At that point I took the engine apart. Badly worn cam. Friend at a local garage put me a new cam kit on for 75 quid including fitting. This is the 90s though I was still shocked at the low cost. Problem sorted. Let us know how you get on. My bet is on the turbo or related. Pressure loss somewhere.

Starting problems ..success ! Very pleased . I followed the picture’s & instructions on here , re changing the worn ignition switch , as when I turned the key to start … silence / nothing . I replaced the relay & thought I’d cured it , but no. So today i changed the ignition switch ( eBay £17:99)problem solved !! . the only tricky part was the upper retaining screw , as it’s hard to reach & get too .you have to be very careful not to drop & lose the screw . One trick is to insert the key and jiggle it about to properly locate the switch , before !Removed! it in tight .. the post on here is great & helped loads & saved a big garsge bill

Yeah. My '19 still only has 35k miles on it so I'm thinking I'll hang on to it for as long as petrol is still available at the pumps.

That is just bags full of custard. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-Newtonian_fluid

At the risk of sounding daft, can you tell us exactly what pipe you are referring to? The aircon system has two obvious 'pipes' both of which connect to the compressor and both of which carry the same refrigerant as it circulates around. Is it like an oily leak you see? or do you mean something else.