Due For Service?

[CorollaD4D]

Hi there. I have a 2.0D4D on a 54 plate. Recently the car has been pulling with less vigor than before and the local toyota specialist said it needs a service.

I just wanted some advice, I am planning to do oil filter, air filter, fuel filter and oil. Regarding the oil I don't want to put any old crappy oil into it and needed some advice. What good oils would you recommend for the D4D, it has about 82000 on the clock so I'm thinking semi-synthetic Castrol or some other good oil which will protect the engine over the coming winter?

The Castrol website recommended this oil for my car. Any ideas if it is any good?

Any other general advice RE the service is more than welcome!

Thanks in advance.

[nrgizerbunny]

I'd go Mobil 1 UNLESS your engine is actually drinking oil. if it is get Mobil 5w or 10w and not Mobil 1.

I'm not a toyota tech and certainly no expert on d4d engines but here's my 2p worth

1. Air filter, i would buy toyota originals.

2. Pollen Filter, change this as you can sure as hell bet the main dealer will have just hoovered it.

3. Oil Filter, I would buy Toyota originals

4. Gearbox oil, i would change this as a matter of course.

5. Check the glow plugs, make sure they aren't caked in cack.

thats about all i can think of at the moment.

[CorollaD4D]

Yeah all filters will be original, I think more research is needed on the oil front.

When my rolla went for a diagnosis it returned glow plug heater circuit A fault. Anyhow while it was there they said a clutch oil and gearbox oil need replacing too but I've never ever done this on any previous car I have owned. What's the purpose of this?

thanks in advance for any help!

[Conrolla]

i would use an oil that goes from 5W35 instead of this 0W30 just my preference but either should do fine also ask for your brakes too be taken off cleaned re greased and checked too see if there are any warped discs wiper check tyre pressures and tread this is what i carry out as a service aswell as replacing all filters and oils also if you feel there may be an excessive build up of junk in your engine use an engine flush and run some injector cleaner

[Conrolla]

P.s

there is no clutch oil that i am aware of im sure that it is a hydraulic system in the d4d and that it runs off of brake fluid ( correct me if im wrong )

gearbox oil should be changed at regular intervals i tend too do it everytime i change engine oil this just helps your gearbox the same way that engine oil will help your engine e.g will keep it lubricated and help protect your gears from extreme temperatures this is essential that gearbox oil be changed as there are no filters nor pumps in the gearbox to circulate this oil

Hope this helps

[nrgizerbunny]

correct, the corolla well t sport anyway uses a combined hydraulic reservoir for the clutch and brakes.

after a while the fluid absorbs water and its boiling point drops, this causes the pedal to feel spongy and can cause brake fade.

[Cyker]

My Yaris D4D had a tendency to loose 'pull' over time, but several people suggested that it might be the injectors getting clogged due to my low-rpm driving style.

I found giving it a motorway blast occasionally helped, and have also taken to sticking a tankful of V-Power diesel in every few tanks which also seems to help stave off the power loss!

I recently had my Yaris serviced; Major service plus MOT, and also had the clutch/brake and gearbox oil changed to see if it would make the brakes feel better and make the gear change a bit smoother; Didn't feel much difference, although the cold clutch-judder I was having seems to have improved slightly (Now only happens if I do something daft like shooting off the line when the engine's stone cold )

What're you guys paying for your services? Mine would have been about £200 for the major service +MOT at a Jemca Toyota, but they charged me another £160 for the gearbox and clutch/brake oil changes which seemed a bit !Removed! steep!

They also wanted to charge me £170 to change the anti-roll bar bushes, but I think I'll leave that for a while...!

[Conrolla]

Do not put your car in for a service at a dealer unless you are planning to check that all work is actually done and check how many hours they have spent on your var you are going too get seriously ripped off dealers will charge you anywhere between 40-70 pph plus i have lost count of the number of jobs i have walked out of because the garage was working in was total rip off city (all dealers)

160 pounds too change your gearbox oil and brake oil is extortion i would have priced this job at around 50-70 quid plus oil 170 quid for the roll bar bushes also sounds a bit steep

[CorollaD4D]

Hmm, well thanks for the help guys.

Local Toyota garage has a deal on throwing in free oil when you buy all the filters so might go for that (but will get service carried out by local toyota specialist I know quite well). Also thinking about Slick 50 in to protect the engine, any ideas on this?

My car too loses pull and I've also been told it is because I change up at around 2000rpm in my D4D. What would be better rpm to change up whilst maintaining fuel economy?

[nrgizerbunny]

avoid slick 50, duralube or anything like that.

[Cyker]

Hmm, well thanks for the help guys.

Local Toyota garage has a deal on throwing in free oil when you buy all the filters so might go for that (but will get service carried out by local toyota specialist I know quite well). Also thinking about Slick 50 in to protect the engine, any ideas on this?

My car too loses pull and I've also been told it is because I change up at around 2000rpm in my D4D. What would be better rpm to change up whilst maintaining fuel economy?

The problem isn't so much the changing at 2000, but if that means you're ALWAYS cruising around at 800-1100 rpm like I tend to do then that's where the car gets prone to crudding up the injectors. Presumably they aren't squirting enough to blast the crud away and cylinder temp isn't high enough to burn it away?

1800-2000RPM is about where the turbo starts delivering decent boost, and from there to about 3000RPM the engine is delivering max torque. I try and drive in that band when I feel it starting to get a bit sluggish and it does help stave off the power loss, but it also uses noticeably more fuel :( Throttle response is great tho' (And slightly addictive ) due to the high torque and turbo boost :D

If your journey involves a country road or motorway then its a lot easier to mitigate the crud buildup, but TBH it is very hard to do city driving while getting high economy AND stop the engine crudding up.

Another alternative is using a fuel additive for cleaning injectors or using something like V-Power diesel every few tankfuls.

[CorollaD4D]

Hmm, well thanks for the help guys.

Local Toyota garage has a deal on throwing in free oil when you buy all the filters so might go for that (but will get service carried out by local toyota specialist I know quite well). Also thinking about Slick 50 in to protect the engine, any ideas on this?

My car too loses pull and I've also been told it is because I change up at around 2000rpm in my D4D. What would be better rpm to change up whilst maintaining fuel economy?

The problem isn't so much the changing at 2000, but if that means you're ALWAYS cruising around at 800-1100 rpm like I tend to do then that's where the car gets prone to crudding up the injectors. Presumably they aren't squirting enough to blast the crud away and cylinder temp isn't high enough to burn it away?

1800-2000RPM is about where the turbo starts delivering decent boost, and from there to about 3000RPM the engine is delivering max torque. I try and drive in that band when I feel it starting to get a bit sluggish and it does help stave off the power loss, but it also uses noticeably more fuel :( Throttle response is great tho' (And slightly addictive ) due to the high torque and turbo boost :D

If your journey involves a country road or motorway then its a lot easier to mitigate the crud buildup, but TBH it is very hard to do city driving while getting high economy AND stop the engine crudding up.

Another alternative is using a fuel additive for cleaning injectors or using something like V-Power diesel every few tankfuls.

Yeah I am always cruising at upto 1200 rpm...I guess I'll start using the motorway route to uni so that every morning the car gets a little motorway blast to help clear the gunk in the injectors clogging them.

Also I think I'm gonna start using forte diesel system cleaner every 2 or 3 tanks to help stave off the building and start changing up at 2200rpm or so to help a little more. Fuel economy I'm not too fussed about in my experience this engine rarely dips below 40mpg with my driving style and I guess that's decent.

avoid slick 50, duralube or anything like that.

LOL, my dad said the same thing, his exact words were "stop getting so technical with it, it's a toyota - it'll last forever!"

Anyway I got the service today. Went to toyota who gave me fuel, air and oil filters, the little oil gasket, and 6L of oil all for a smudge under £60, was well pleased with that. Local toyota guy I know charged £15 to do the service so all in all a good days work methinks :D