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Multiple Warnings - Very Confused

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My 56 plate XT4 D4D is giving me problems, it started 3 days ago.

On day 1 I started the car first thing in the morning and the car shuddered and hestitantly fired. immediately the engine warning light came on followed by the Check engine system, Check VSC system plus Check 4x4 system in the warning text panel.

The car ran normally, I checked the fault codes and there was only one, P0088 fuel rail system pressure too high. I did a reset and the car was perfect for the rest of the day.

For the last two mornings the car has started normally, no warnings and after 1/2 a mile produces the same warnings and goes into limp mode not revving above 1000. Restarting the engine restores full power.

Again the only fault code is P0088 and a reset cures the car all day.

My diagnostic box says the fuel pressure is a little over 39000 KPA at idle and around 84000 at 2,500 RPM, with the engine warm is this normal?

And why is it upsetting the stability control and 4x4 systems?

Regards

Dave

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Hi Dave, sorry to hear about your problems.

The warnings you are getting are typical of those received when you have a blocked EGR valve. If you do a quick search for "blocked egr valve" you'll see it's a fairly common problem.

There's also threads showing you how to clean it, if you do not want to go to the dealer (I cant remember if Toyota extended the warranty for this fault)

Hope that's some help :)

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Many thanks mate, I'd have been a long time suspecting the EGR.

I'll be having a go this weekend, keep you all informed

Many thanks

Dave

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I would agree with Duncs that you clean the EGR to start as this is common but if it puts it back again with the same code it would appear that the fuel pressure is indeed too high. These are the values and the description of the fault;

Reference: Engine Speed Fuel Pressure

Idling

Approximately 37 to 43 MPa

3,000 rpm (No engine load)

Approximately 60 to 66 MPa

MONITOR DESCRIPTION

P0088 (Internal fuel pressure too high):

The ECM sets this DTC if the fuel pressure inside the common rail is more than 200 MPa (2,039 kgf/cm2, 29,007 psi). This DTC indicates that: 1) the suction control valve may be stuck open or

2) there may be a short in the suction control valve circuit.

If this DTC is set, the ECM enters fail-safe mode and limits the engine power. The fail-safe mode continues until the ignition switch is turned off.

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Thanks Duncs and Anchorman.

Managed to get the EGR cleaned when I got home last night, it was every bit as clogged as the photos I have seen on this forum.

I managed to get the carbon out of the large chamber by scraping and hoovering and cleared the two outermost ports by shoving soaked pieces of cloth as far down as I could and plenty of suction with the Dyson. The valve chamber was a doddle. When I reassembled it and started the engine it was understandably hesitant and the warnings reappeared, I did another reset and all appeared well apart from lumpy idling. A test drive and several restarts were uneventful and the idling settled down.

I set off for work this morning with no warnings and a slightly lumpy run til it warmed up however it was noticably more clattery. It was fine on the motorway and it was left all day.

Tonight on leaving work we have the same warnings and symptoms within a few hundred yards and quite clattery.

I'm leaving it now til morning and I'll look at the running figures again and will now proceed with replacing the suction control valve.

Thanks both of you very much for going to the trouble of replying, your assistance is invaluable.

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Hi david

If you want to take the EGR right out of the equation you can get a thin sheet of aluminium and make a blanking plate if you draw around the steel gasket. It will run fine without the EGR and in fact may well give better fuel economy.

However, all the indications are that the SCV is sticking and in this case you need to talk to Kingo because it was well into production before SCVs were made available for the 4.2s and I haven't heard of them going in a 4.3 yet. So, fingers crossed that an SCV is available because otherwise you are into a HP fuel pump which will be hellish expensive unless you can find a scrapper. On the positive side it is much easier to get at on a 4.3 being on the end of the camshaft rather than through the timing case. There is a little check you can do on the electrical side of the SCV but it may check out OK and still be physically stuck;

SCV 4.3.pdf

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Thanks Anchorman,

I've rechecked the EGR and in the light of day thoroughly cleaned it again, the ports were still quite gummed up, particularly the two outermost. I found that strips of an old Tshirt soaked in petrol pushed down with a flexible rod removed the vast majority of the carbon. I finished with a blast of compressed air to evaporate the petrol and it hasn't gone into fault all day.

The idle is perfect, but power is lacking from about 2,500 upwards and the clatter has gone.

Mine is the 2.3 model and there are two valves on the pump.

The figures I got this morning were 40,000 kPa at idle and 82000 at 3000 rpm and as I say no faults or warnings.

Is it safe to assume that the SCVs are suspect? or as I'm and electronics engineer by trade the fuel rail sensor?

Regards

Dave

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There is no 2.3 engine Dave, only a 2.2.

There is only one suction control valve, the one at the bottom is the fuel temp sender. I wouldn't rule oue the fuel pressure sensor but the MIL is suggecting SCV. Either will be xpensive but I would go for the one the system is telling you - SCV.

hp pump.pdf

fuel rail.pdf

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Thanks a million Anchorman, sorry for the delay I've just got a new dog.

After thoroughly cleaning the EGR again, I've had no warnings or DTC's since Sunday and a steady idle. I now have an intermittent massive flat spot on accelerating above 2500 or so.

The fuel rail sensor looks OK.

By a massive stroke of luck I was looking on ebay for a boot liner for the dog and there was a brand new fuel pump there, I was the only bidder and (sit down) got it for £250!

So as soon as it arrives it'll be on the car in a flash.

Many thanks for your help, I owe you big time and next time i'm walking in your neck of the woods I'll gladly stand you many beers!

Dave

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Lets fix it first and then I'll drink a beer with you!

The pump was an amazing find - well done!

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Hi Anchorman, I'm afraid i'm going to have to mither you again.

Sorry for the protracted silence, i've been in hospital having my appendix out.

The new fuel pump arrived during the week and a couple of pals have swapped it for the old one which included a new SCV. I'm afraid it's made absolutely no difference.

There are no faults stored or pending nor are there any lights on the dash, it is simply gutless accelerating. On the flat it'll hold 70 MPH all day and return 36 ish MPG so we're fairly convinced the fuel side is OK. Ask it to go and not a chance, flat as a board from 2000-2500 RPM.

One of the pals who is a BMW technician is suspecting lack of boost pressure, if you gently squeeze the pipes both sides of the intercooler you can feel them expand quite well when you hit the accelerator. Unfortunately we can't measure it a present. Is it possible (revisiting the EGR) that the inlet manifold is blocked or maybe something on the exhaust side? One of the guys owns a 54 plate 2.0 and the exhaust pressure from his is far greater than mine.

Thanks again

Dave

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Dave.

Sorry for missing this. I would just have a look at the VRV which controls the boost pressure by varying the vacuum acting on the turbo boost unit. If you stand looking at the engine it is on a bracket fixed to the engine at the left hand side near the back (over towards the master cylinder end). There are 2 little units with vac pipes, it is the one nearest the turbo;

VRV 4.3.pdf

Take it off and squirt WD40 inside the holes and shake it until you hear the shuttle move. Then try to drain as mach WD40 as you can and try it again.

I'm right in thinking you have no fault codes now?

Did you get my pm?

Cheers

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Hi Anchorman

Got your pm thanks, see reply

It'll be weekend before it can be tackled again, I can't possibly work on an engine just yet.

I'll let you know the latest in this long saga

regards

Dave

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Surprise

I think I've fixed it!

I changed the fuel filter about 3000 miles ago as I remember it hesitating during acceleration back in January.

The original hadn't been changed in nearly 73000 miles! So I bought an orginal Toyota for around £42 and it cured the problem.

I recall a lot of debris in the filter and in the fuel drained out during the change.

I decided to give it a go and swapped it again for a Delphi filter purchased from Euro Car Parts and the improvement is dramatic to say the least. I've run the car all day with no noticable flat spot or hesitation even when I've floored the acceleator.

I'm giving serious consideration to removing the fuel tank and cleaning the crap out as the filter has blocked again in little over 3000 miles.

I'll give it a longer test including a run with the caravan attatched before I declare it fixed.

Go to www.eurocarparts.com they sell two different filters one a cheap and cheerful at £4.07 and the Delphi at (17.92), I chose the latter. They also list many other parts for the Rav4 so a there's a saving to be had there (And no I don't work for them).

Thanks to Anchorman and Duncs for their invaluable assistance

Regards

Dave

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I'm satisified that the car is now fixed.

The car is running like a dream with full power and normal fuel consumption, with almost 1000 miles on.

Last week I went on holiday towing the caravan and the car performed faultlessly, the fuel consuption 30 - 35 MPG.

I've resisted the temptation to remove the fuel tank as frankly I don't have the time at the moment and I firmly believe in if it aint broke, you don't fix it.

I do however carry a spare fuel filter and enough tools to clean the EGR should it clog again. I've had a quick peek at it since the clean and there's virtually nothing there.

Thanks again to all who have freely given their time and very good advice to helping me with this problem.

Regards

Dave

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