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Dave Dixon

Engine Frozen?

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On saturday I tried to start my 1998 Freesport after 5 days non use in the snow.

The starter motor made a whining sound but the engine wouldn't turn over.

Tried a new Battery, same result.

I kept the key turned and eventually the engine coughed into life,reluctently.

It has been fine since, using it each day.

Could this have been the engine frozen up?

How can I prevent it happening please?

Dave.

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It would freeze up if you have not changed the coolant for sometime and it had become weakened. Remember we have seen temperatures of -20 in some places, add in some wind chill and it's quite possible. The way to stop it freezing up is to change the coolant. The Toyota coolant does not need diluting, you just fill it with new fluid. If you are not confident doing this, take it to your local garage to do it. A frozen engine, could, at worst split the engine block open, end of engine!

Kingo :thumbsup:

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By reading your description ,it may have just been the starter motor not throwing into engage the flywheel ring and turn the engine over - maybe even just the starter mech freezing. If the engine had 'frozen' then you'd know all about it by now (noises, burning drivebelts; steam etc....

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Thanks guys.

It has been normal again since it started and the antifreeze was checked at a very recent service and was fine.

I think, and hope Bothy is spot on. I will possibly find out later next week when the temps are set to plummet again!

Dave.

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I meant to ask, with more snow and cold weather forecast, if it was my starter motor, how can I prevent it happening again, and why is it not happening to other people?

Dave.

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The starter solenoids first action is to push the starter gear to engage with the flywheel ring gear and at the same time close the heavy duty contacts to turn the starter motor.

I would first suspect that maybe clutch plate dust had settled on the slide part,then with the extreme conditions as they were, attracted damp which froze stopping the starter gear to move as it should.

This,however,is pure speculation on my part and I will gladly accept any corrections that anyone may feel necessary.

It also may not happen again as it is now working.

Might be something to look at when the weather picks up.

Del

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The starter solenoids first action is to push the starter gear to engage with the flywheel ring gear and at the same time close the heavy duty contacts to turn the starter motor.

I would first suspect that maybe clutch plate dust had settled on the slide part,then with the extreme conditions as they were, attracted damp which froze stopping the starter gear to move as it should.

This,however,is pure speculation on my part and I will gladly accept any corrections that anyone may feel necessary.

It also may not happen again as it is now working.

Might be something to look at when the weather picks up.

Del

I suspect that you are dead on here Del. When the weather picks up, take the starter motor off and give it a really good clean. I don't know what the Toyota service manual says about lubrication but experience tells me to use dry lube on the sliding gear/shaft interface. Definitely not Oil or grease. Hmmmm! perhaps I should do mine come the summer :unsure:

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Maybe WD40 would repell moisture?

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a heater underneath the car????

We have a Ford transit 04 plate with an annoying problem between the Battery and starter motor.....but then its a diesel !!

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On saturday I tried to start my 1998 Freesport after 5 days non use in the snow.

The starter motor made a whining sound but the engine wouldn't turn over.

Tried a new battery, same result.

I kept the key turned and eventually the engine coughed into life,reluctently.

It has been fine since, using it each day.

Could this have been the engine frozen up?

How can I prevent it happening please?

Dave.

if your engine had been frozen the very least it would have done if you could have turned it over is sheared the impeller blades off on the water pump,which are designed to fail if engine frozen.the worst is a cracked block/head.thats what core plugs were for.i dont know if engines have them now.but i think the core plug holes is were engine heaters are fixed for colder clmates than ours.if your engine had started without the above damage whilst being frozen the coolant would not circulate and would have soon overheated.so it is others say,your starter motor/system.

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When I were a lad (no reminders please,I know!!)I was taught that no lubricant of any kind was to be allowed any where near, which was then usually, a Bendix arrangement as the clutch friction plate dust and said lubricant would mix together and form a paste which would (no pun intended) gum up the works.

This mantra I followed recently after repairing my starter as this seemed,to me,to be the right thing to do even though it threw in the gear by a different method and even though there is no dust in my bell housing being an auto.

If I am wrong in this,being told what a prat (wont be the first time!)I was in doing this will in no way offend.

Del

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When I were a lad (no reminders please,I know!!)I was taught that no lubricant of any kind was to be allowed any where near, which was then usually, a Bendix arrangement as the clutch friction plate dust and said lubricant would mix together and form a paste which would (no pun intended) gum up the works.

This mantra I followed recently after repairing my starter as this seemed,to me,to be the right thing to do even though it threw in the gear by a different method and even though there is no dust in my bell housing being an auto.

If I am wrong in this,being told what a prat (wont be the first time!)I was in doing this will in no way offend.

Del

hi your no prat if you were so am i.

taught the same,just check bendix free to move and no rust.

but saying that you can get a dry lubricants,that is not sticky so maybe ok.

was told not lubricate door locks with normal oils only speciel lubricant.

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When I were a lad (no reminders please,I know!!)I was taught that no lubricant of any kind was to be allowed any where near, which was then usually, a Bendix arrangement as the clutch friction plate dust and said lubricant would mix together and form a paste which would (no pun intended) gum up the works.

This mantra I followed recently after repairing my starter as this seemed,to me,to be the right thing to do even though it threw in the gear by a different method and even though there is no dust in my bell housing being an auto.

If I am wrong in this,being told what a prat (wont be the first time!)I was in doing this will in no way offend.

Del

hi your no prat if you were so am i.

taught the same,just check bendix free to move and no rust.

but saying that you can get a dry lubricants,that is not sticky so maybe ok.

was told not lubricate door locks with normal oils only speciel lubricant.

Aye - its all those hinges on the 5 door models - a complete nightmare !! :eek: :eek: :eek:

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No bendix on one of these starters guys - hasn't been any for a very long time now (70s or 80s)!!!!

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You are as usual quite right Anchs,I only mentioned the bendix type to show how long,long ago I was learning about motor repairs. :wheelchair:

Does this no longer apply?

Thanks

Del

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Your earlier description of a pre-engaged starter was spot on. The bendix was that old inertia device on the end of a simple motor.

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No bendix on one of these starters guys - hasn't been any for a very long time now (70s or 80s)!!!!

i think thare is a little confusion here with the term bendix.they were still using the oid standerd bendix in the mid 1960s.the bendex corporation introduced the old cetrifugal engagement i think used by CHEVROLET in 1914.

in the late 1960 folo-thru bendix appeared using flyweight for operation.the name bendix is used as a general for the engagement/disengagement of the drive to the ring gear etc.

some motor cycles are using these days a AQUA TORQUE BENDIX STARTER.dont suppose the reguire any lubricatine sounds like they maybe water proof.which may be a needed on a motor bike.

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Blimey! I was using the generic term for that lump on a spring loaded helix like nearly all starters had at one time :thumbsup:

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I was with this post most of the way :rolleyes:

Must have fell asleep

Think I'll pass while I'm just confused :wacko::wacko:

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One of our cleaners was having the same problem with his ancient Renault Van. And just a few weeks ago when we had the really cold -20 something weather his car wouldn't start. Turns out he had no coolant what-so-ever in it. -_-

If you can, try and keep the car under cover or in a garage. If you can't do that, try and keep as much wind chill off the bonnet as possible. We sometimes throw a thick, heavy blanket over the bonnet to try and keep most of the ice and snow off. Sometimes it helps and sometimes it doesn't but it's worth a try. Either that if you're really worried about blown cylinder heads or a cracked block, either get a heat lamp in there a short while before you try and start the car or invest in a block heater.

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