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the heater in the RAV is not that good really...it's get warm in the middle vents but blows cold into the footwell..the heater pipes are hot all-round the garage don't seem to have any idea they just say it's an old car..........so any of you owners have any thoughts please

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Hi Read,

Good to hear you got your RAV back!!

Once my car starts to warm up Temp gauge about a third up the temp coming out of any vents is warm.....

Once the car warms fully to half way up the gauge the temp should be toasty hot. If you put the heater on full heat and full fan mine is like a hairdyrer in the face.

Try leaving the fan on low until it warms up on the temp gauge and then see if it is hot. I find it warms up quicker if you do that rather than full power while it warms.

Do you have the switch set to recirculate the interior air? I would say leave the switch off when you test.

In the drivers footwell (Left side) you will see a large white plastic cog mechanism that moves when you turn the heater dial. Check that this opens and closes properly when you turn the knob. All will make sense when you see it.

Cheers,

Lee

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the heater in the RAV is not that good really...it's get warm in the middle vents but blows cold into the footwell..the heater pipes are hot all-round the garage don't seem to have any idea they just say it's an old car..........so any of you owners have any thoughts please

Very strange. Our 02-reg vvti auto's heater & a/c work just as well now as they did when it was new.

Your garage sounds as if it's run by idiots or else they're just not bothered about your business.

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Yep, here too, 2003 vvti cosy heater when required, maybe you have a blockage or something affecting the footwell, or has the diverter maybe jammed in a wrong position.

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Just to confirm that the temp that comes out of either area is definitely the same temp.

I presume the heater is warmed by the engine? Mine was warm heat when I just got home for lunch (Few miles away) and when got back to work it had warmed up nicely. Hot Hot Hot!!

Let car warm up to half way on gauge with the setting on "LO" before checking heat from various outlets. If there is good airflow from each outlet then I would think that it wouldn't be blocked?

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Another thought, but probably not relevant if the temps vary in both areas, but have you checked the thermostat. As I understand it, the coolant liquid for the engine also controls the temperature in the heater. If the coolant level is low, or needs renewing, that could help towards the problem.

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You should be getting the same temperature out of all the vents. There is no facility on your RAV for cool air in the face, and heat on the toes.

If everything is working OK, the temperature gauge should reach half-way after a mile or two on the road, normal driving, and stay there. After 10 minutes on the road, you should be getting good hot air from everywhere.

If the needle is slow to climb on the gauge, or never gets to half-way, or heater output is poor, this definitely suggests the engine thermostat should be renewed.

The job of the 'stat is to restrict the supply of very cold water in the radiator from overcooling the engine, and it does this by shutting of one or more of the water routes, leaving ONLY the engine and cabin heater in circuit. Thus the cabin heater (and the engine) warm up quickly. When the water temperature gets to about 90degC, the 'stat slowly opens, letting additional cool radiator water into the circuit.

When thermostats fail, they usually fail 'open', and the engine/heater are slow to warm up. If they fail 'closed' (very rare), the symptom is usually over-temperature or boiling and water loss.

Petrol engines warm up really quickly; diesel engines can be slow, especially downhill (because they are more efficient, and waste less heat).

I suggest you get a genuine Toyota thermostat fitted . . . they are generally extremely reliable.

Chris

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Mmmm, just ask Big Kev about the heater because you can make toast on his 3 door petrol heater.

Check the coolant is full and if so, keep in mind that poor heater performance is often associated with cylinder head problems. See where I'm going with this?

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Hi Read,

Good to hear you got your RAV back!!

Once my car starts to warm up Temp gauge about a third up the temp coming out of any vents is warm.....

Once the car warms fully to half way up the gauge the temp should be toasty hot. If you put the heater on full heat and full fan mine is like a hairdyrer in the face.

Try leaving the fan on low until it warms up on the temp gauge and then see if it is hot. I find it warms up quicker if you do that rather than full power while it warms.

Do you have the switch set to recirculate the interior air? I would say leave the switch off when you test.

In the drivers footwell (Left side) you will see a large white plastic cog mechanism that moves when you turn the heater dial. Check that this opens and closes properly when you turn the knob. All will make sense when you see it.

Cheers,

Lee

thanx for that I'll look
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Thank you for all the replies..there is no water loss the head has been done, the pipes into the heater and out get nice and hot, so that would indicate the water is circulating normally (I hope)

The temp gauge gets up to half way within a mile or two. Every thing appears to be normal.... :dontgetit:

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the heater in the RAV is not that good really...it's get warm in the middle vents but blows cold into the footwell..the heater pipes are hot all-round the garage don't seem to have any idea they just say it's an old car..........so any of you owners have any thoughts please

Very strange. Our 02-reg vvti auto's heater & a/c work just as well now as they did when it was new.

Your garage sounds as if it's run by idiots or else they're just not bothered about your business.

I reckon it could be :naughty:
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Just to confirm that the temp that comes out of either area is definitely the same temp.

I presume the heater is warmed by the engine? Mine was warm heat when I just got home for lunch (Few miles away) and when got back to work it had warmed up nicely. Hot Hot Hot!!

Let car warm up to half way on gauge with the setting on "LO" before checking heat from various outlets. If there is good airflow from each outlet then I would think that it wouldn't be blocked?

there is an even air flow from all vents,,cheers :)
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You should be getting the same temperature out of all the vents. There is no facility on your RAV for cool air in the face, and heat on the toes.

If everything is working OK, the temperature gauge should reach half-way after a mile or two on the road, normal driving, and stay there. After 10 minutes on the road, you should be getting good hot air from everywhere.

If the needle is slow to climb on the gauge, or never gets to half-way, or heater output is poor, this definitely suggests the engine thermostat should be renewed.

The job of the 'stat is to restrict the supply of very cold water in the radiator from overcooling the engine, and it does this by shutting of one or more of the water routes, leaving ONLY the engine and cabin heater in circuit. Thus the cabin heater (and the engine) warm up quickly. When the water temperature gets to about 90degC, the 'stat slowly opens, letting additional cool radiator water into the circuit.

When thermostats fail, they usually fail 'open', and the engine/heater are slow to warm up. If they fail 'closed' (very rare), the symptom is usually over-temperature or boiling and water loss.

Petrol engines warm up really quickly; diesel engines can be slow, especially downhill (because they are more efficient, and waste less heat).

I suggest you get a genuine Toyota thermostat fitted . . . they are generally extremely reliable.

Chris

cheers it does have a new thermostat fitted :thumbsup:
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Mmmm, just ask Big Kev about the heater because you can make toast on his 3 door petrol heater.

Check the coolant is full and if so, keep in mind that poor heater performance is often associated with cylinder head problems. See where I'm going with this?

cylinder head ooooww I hope not now.. :disgust: it's been fixed
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I hope not. The head has been off that many times they might have just filled the heater core with debris. It might benefit from reverse flushing but leave it too see how it goes and then if needed you can do it in the warmer weather.

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I've read this post twice.... odd that the air is hot on the middle vents. I would tend towards wondering whether the flaps etc that divert air to below are working properly. Had the heater not worked I would be looking at the control valve that turns the heater on and at the heater matrix maybe needing flushed out.

I have no problems with the heating on number 2. I intend to get photos and upload them of number 1 which has its dashboard removed just now. Whether it will help to understand how the heater works I doubt though as most of the heater air tubes have been removed too.

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Mmmm, just ask Big Kev about the heater because you can make toast on his 3 door petrol heater.

Check the coolant is full and if so, keep in mind that poor heater performance is often associated with cylinder head problems. See where I'm going with this?

cylinder head ooooww I hope not now.. :disgust: it's been fixed

Must confirm, Read min.....wife's 3 door now rented out to chav types as a sunlamp. mate.....good luck.

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Mmmm, just ask Big Kev about the heater because you can make toast on his 3 door petrol heater.

Check the coolant is full and if so, keep in mind that poor heater performance is often associated with cylinder head problems. See where I'm going with this?

cylinder head ooooww I hope not now.. :disgust: it's been fixed

Must confirm, Read min.....wife's 3 door now rented out to chav types as a sunlamp. mate.....good luck.

lol
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