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kencat

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Just had a service on my rav at Toyota ! Brakes and discs 50-40 worn 24000 miles , check next service !

happy !

same garage same day put a Advisory on the mot front brakes and discs worn bad ! Not happy

I checked them there 5 mm of pad left and about 1 mm wear on the discs lol

Spose thay got 2 Mown about something lol

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Ken,matie,I do not do that many miles per annum now and try not to drive using harsh,late braking and I think something like that was put down on an MOT and it was after about 2 tests later that my local indie advised me that the brakes were now needing attention.

I sometimes wonder if this is an automated entry on the ticket.

It all depends,of course, on how much you use the brakes

It always amuses me when I am following a car that has to brake for every bend,however slight it may be!

But each to his/her own I suppose.

Del

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Ken,

Serves you right for having an MOT done at any coloured Main Dealer!

Take to your local friendly MOT testing garage and get the real truth..................................

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take mine to council depot, no axe to grind, not like the stealers

B-A

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Had mine MOT'd yesterday . At last service , the tyres were an advisory -no mention as advisory on the MOT report (to be fair the criteria may be different) . However front brake pads were replaced for the first time at about 65K-now 20k on they are supposed to be 60% worn -is the material getting softer or am I starting to brake at every bend?

Also had an advisory on rear bump stops deteriorating-anyone ever replaced them?

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take mine to council depot, no axe to grind, not like the stealers

B-A

They also don't seem to have this retest fee if taken away for repairs and then retested later - Council failed my Renault Master van on the handbrake being 1% below required efficiency and when I went back a few days later with it adjusted, got a free retest. I'm sure garages would have charged at least 50% of the MOT fee?

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take mine to council depot, no axe to grind, not like the stealers

B-A

They also don't seem to have this retest fee if taken away for repairs and then retested later - Council failed my Renault Master van on the handbrake being 1% below required efficiency and when I went back a few days later with it adjusted, got a free retest. I'm sure garages would have charged at least 50% of the MOT fee?

If taken away I believe at many places it has to be retested by the end of the next working day for a free retest.

David

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take mine to council depot, no axe to grind, not like the stealers

B-A

They also don't seem to have this retest fee if taken away for repairs and then retested later - Council failed my Renault Master van on the handbrake being 1% below required efficiency and when I went back a few days later with it adjusted, got a free retest. I'm sure garages would have charged at least 50% of the MOT fee?
If taken away I believe it has to be retested by the end of the next working day for a free retest.

David

That's what I thought too and asked them how much when I took it back and they said nothing!
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take mine to council depot, no axe to grind, not like the stealers

B-A

They also don't seem to have this retest fee if taken away for repairs and then retested later - Council failed my Renault Master van on the handbrake being 1% below required efficiency and when I went back a few days later with it adjusted, got a free retest. I'm sure garages would have charged at least 50% of the MOT fee?

I've used my local Council Testers for several years. They are always very helpful. I just hope that they are not axed as a cost saving measure.

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Rightly or wrongly I always use Mr T for my MOT as you can knacker the 4WD system if not done correctly.

This year I got an advisory on my breaks, turns out they are fine. When challenged the guy said that if they are showing signs of wear they must highlight it to protect themselves. Ie if they didn't and the car crashed with the reason being down to diminished breaking capability cos they were worn, they could be liable. Mad eh!!

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Rightly or wrongly I always use Mr T for my MOT as you can knacker the 4WD system if not done correctly.

This year I got an advisory on my breaks, turns out they are fine. When challenged the guy said that if they are showing signs of wear they must highlight it to protect themselves. Ie if they didn't and the car crashed with the reason being down to diminished breaking capability cos they were worn, they could be liable. Mad eh!!

Hi Dave,

you are spot on about using the right testing equipment for the brakes. When the tester logs onto the website to start the test and enters the registration number it warns him not to use a conventional brake tester. Mine are done with a portable decelerometer which records the braking effort. I can't remember what the device is called but I do remember Anchorman mentioning them some time ago.

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Yea mad thats wot I Thort ! Thay said the same 2 me thay sould last till next service 10000 miles ? That's y I had them 2 do mine coz the 4x4 set up think but it looked 2 me thay just put it on the rolling road like any car ?

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Rightly or wrongly I always use Mr T for my MOT as you can knacker the 4WD system if not done correctly.

This year I got an advisory on my breaks, turns out they are fine. When challenged the guy said that if they are showing signs of wear they must highlight it to protect themselves. Ie if they didn't and the car crashed with the reason being down to diminished breaking capability cos they were worn, they could be liable. Mad eh!!

Hi Dave,

you are spot on about using the right testing equipment for the brakes. When the tester logs onto the website to start the test and enters the registration number it warns him not to use a conventional brake tester. Mine are done with a portable decelerometer which records the braking effort. I can't remember what the device is called but I do remember Anchorman mentioning them some time ago.

Tapley Meter is the popular one but there is one for the window called a Bowmonk and a few others that do a similar thing. They all use a pendulum to measure inertia.

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Tapley Meter is the popular one but there is one for the window called a Bowmonk and a few others that do a similar thing. They all use a pendulum to measure inertia.

Oh what it is to have a memory that works Don :thumbsup:

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Not always Chris.....

.....where's my flippin' keys??!!!

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In yer pocket, redundant......push button start.....

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once your car has left the test station that's the end of their input as to your safety of your car, so really the test is a lot of bull in some ways, my coulncil use the metre on the floor, but if you really think they are taking you for a ride you can go to your local traffic commissioner to complain, but it will cost you.

B-A

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I've had the "Duty of Care" crap from a reception 'erk at a Main Dealer and told him wear to stick his opinion!

It was claimed that my rear brakes were 70% gone and the fronts 95%! Also the discs were in imminent danger of collapse.

I hadn't asked for any such check, the car was only in their workshop to set up a new key (at an extortionate price!)

Of course, he didn't know, nor did he bother to ask my view, simply shouted his mouth off in the Reception. Had he done so, I would have told him that I had new discs and pads already to do the job myself at the following weekend!

I was aware they needed attention, though nowhere near his figures. The discs had some corrosion, having been stood for while and the pads were maybe 50% down only, so much for their measurements.

Main Dealers, don't you love 'em!

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Tapley Meter

I first used one of those in 1976........they are still in use......the exact same meter!!!

Kingo :thumbsup:

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I'm starting to think they don't always even look at the discs or pads; My most recent MOT on this Yaris said the pads had 6mm left (About half-worn) and the discs had a yellow warning saying they were slightly scored.

I'm not sure what the MOT test for the brakes is but if it involved an emergency stop I don't understand how my car could possibly have passed because when I had to do an emergency stop a few months later, well, the car didn't want to! It turned out there was some potentially fatal issue with the brakes as the pads were obviously not touching the full face of the disc.

This should have been blindingly obvious to any half-experienced mechanic performing a visual inspection as the discs were only worn in the middle and had a 1cm band of untouched rust on the inner and outer edges of the disc. Given that the disc face is only about 4cm wide, the loss of braking force is pretty easy to imagine! 'Slightly scored' does not begin to describe that!!

When my travelling mech swapped the discs and pads (Lovely EBC greenstuff pads; Now stops on a sixpence, but generates 500% more dust than the blue Toyota OEM brake pads. Low dust my foot EBC! :lol:), we could see that the pads had deep curved grooves running through them which were obviously not touching the disc under braking, and the inner and outer faces of the discs had the same rusted bands on the inner and outer edges.

Jemca really dropped the ball on that one and I barely avoided rear-ending someone because of it!

It's a shame they took the dealer rating section off this site as it was a godsend for weeding out the good dealers from the bad! (I'm sure Kingo was especially sad since his place was pretty much at the top all the time :lol:)

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It's a shame they took the dealer rating section off this site as it was a godsend for weeding out the good dealers from the bad! (I'm sure Kingo was especially sad since his place was pretty much at the top all the time :lol:)

What do you mean "pretty much at the top"???? I WAS the top ALL the time :D: :D:

Joking apart, it was a good system...........where is the admonishtration team when you need em eh? :lol:

Kingo :thumbsup:

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