qettyz

2014 and DRL's failed

Recommended Posts

So, this morning i was cleaning my windows from ice and noticed that my DLR's are not working. Went and checked fuse, that was ok. Cleaned all light connectors with WD40 and still no help. Then i opened my tech docs what i have got from Toyota Tech and found that there is main DLR relay and dimmer relay. Removed DLR relay and also cleaned it legs and connector with WD40 and reseated it and still not working. Last thing what i thought is maybe relay itself is broken and tapped relay little bit and yeah got DLR's flashing by tapping and sometimes they stay on and gone again. 

Tomorrow i go and buy new relay from dealer, hopefully they have those stock. Let see if i really get it fixed so easily. I'll post end result here. Figured to open thread if anyone else is sometime facing with same issue.

But -14 car with only 38k km's on the clock i find it strange that such relay fails. It sure has to been somehow faulty from the start since it already now fails. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

So, got to learn one more thing from my car;)

DRLs wont turn on before you start driving. Tested it this morning, turned lights from auto to 0 before starting the car and yes no lights. DRLs went on when i put gear to R.

Havent have any moment before when there would be bright enought so only DRLs would be on and i would be looking lights before driving. 

Oh well, at least connectors are now cleaned...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have noticed that myself on my partners Yaris. 

Same thing, clear the windows thinking they have packed up and then check them again when returning home and they work. Not sure why they don't simply turn on with the ignition?

Next think for me to look at is the LED high level brake light as I think a few of the LED's have failed as it has dark spots.

Craig.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some DRL's only turn on when the engine is running (my Aygo does) and some only turn on when the car is moving - they're meant to be seen by others when the vehicle is approaching.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the Avensis the DRLs only come on when you first put the car in gear with the engine running (thereafter they stay on) - just starting the car isn't enough. Didn't mention it earlier because when you said that you had managed to get them on by tapping the relay you must have done this, sorry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah kind a wroted that all wrong, yeah got them on but didnt stay;) And better, after messing underhood i moved car and they were on. That point i was wondering whats going on. Didnt even think that they could be acting like they do.

Thanks all replying:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On my auris TS, the LED DRL turns on,  when I release the handbrake. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will continue to this same topic even this is not DLR related, but lighs still.

Week ago i noticed my right low beam missing and suprisely also high beam did not work. I thought first that it has to be then fuse. It was not, then opened back cover of the right light unit and touched the wire connector what is connected to light bulp itself(or some part behind it) and lights started to working right away. I figured out that it was some GND issue...but strange one.

Today then after work i noticed and either of the front low or high beams are not working, only thing working is DLR's and dimmed DLR's to be park lights. Went and took a look front light wiring diagrams what i previously got from toyota-tech.eu. There is master 30A fuse and after that there is smaller 15A fuses to both front lights separatly. Common GND point to all lights. Then went and measured that 30A fuse.. emh it was OK. then measured all of them in engine bay.Everything OK! So it has to be GND point then somehow i thought, but again opened (same right) light back coved and wiggled the connector little bit and here im standing again with working right light unit, did same wiggling to left light unit and it started also working right awat. What the f..?

Both light units seem to be moisture free, connectors are under rubber cover. I could accept one of the connector to have some faulty what needs some cleaning or why ever it does that but come on! both of them.

My plan tomorrow: After work i dive deep to my engine bay and try to clean out both of those connectors and take better look what is going on.

This is the wiring diagram. Both connectors somehow seem to have poor GND pin on the connector maybe or something strange is going on 🤔

EDIT: connectors are not same ones as in the first post on this thread.

image.thumb.png.c039310374e9310c4977245f856332c1.pngimage.thumb.png.94d05fac84b63e77c51c5ea9c0d22a80.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't studied your wiring diagram, but I think you'll find the high beam/low beam is done by just one bulb. A solenoid operated mask cuts off some of the beam for dip operation.  If you listen carefully you can hear it 'clunk' when you operate high beam.

So a designed-in single point of failure. Wow.

Worth keeping a spare in the car!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh my, i thought that there is old school H4, but it seems to be HIR2 halogen. Googled the bulp type and it has 90 degree connector and that was just the thing i was wiggling. I wonder if replacing both bulps would fix this easily, but hard to believe this is because of them, i kind suspect the connector still.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Our (replacement Toyota Optibrite HIR2) bulbs failed nearly together after 15,000 miles use.  I had to go and rescue the car (no lights) when it happened, as the spare bulbs were not in the car.  I was amazed.  I'd go for the bulbs as the failing items!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started thinking same, better buy new bulps. Maybe its not at all the connector what made those working again, it was bulp itself what was wiggled along with the connector.

Tomorrow i go buy new ones and see how weekend will then go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, any time a lamp is out, check the bulb first.

I worked in an electrical specialist garage years ago, this guy dropped off his car with no headlights working and went shopping. Tried to kick off when he was charged half an hour's labour for changing two bulbs! The guys did check the whole circuit, but found both bulbs blown first of all. 

Possibly he learnt from that..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah gotta maybe believe that both bulps would be maybe failing same time. First time for me then in 20y of driving 🙂 Very easy to start diagnosing this too deeply.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...