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lubo
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Got 2005 Yaris Verso 1.3Vvti.

Had a squeaking alternator or belt for about a month. It sqeaked only in low rpm and when moist, sometimes it stopped completely.

Until yesterday i wasnt paying much attention to it until i started it and it started to sound different. Not squeaking like before, but more like something else,also slight smell under bonnet.

Second start the Battery light went on and after checking alternator on + on alternator output and - on Battery terminal (disconnected battery) it puts out only 1.5-3V

I assume something went wrong in alternator.

Wonder if it could be brushes,bearing or regulator and alternator can be fixed rather then replaced?

Pulley spins without rattle,bushings seem to be touching good enough with decent length..possibly regulator?

Car has 180000kms

 

Worth fixing (replacing bushes and regulator) or just get new denso alternator? 180e ?

 

Thanks for tips

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Could it be the belt is just slipping so much it can't turn the alternator?

I've rarely heard of the alternator being a problem in a Mk1 (Unlike certain 2.0 D4D Corollas and Avensis!)

However, the aux/alternator belt getting squeaky is a common problem in the Mk1s, and if it's not changed it will eventually start to slip.

If you really think it's the alternator you can get it tested first, but I'd put my money on the belt - I'd see about getting the belt changed first, but make sure whoever does it gives all the pulleys a good clean as the old belt will have left some guck on all of them that will make the new one slip/squeak earlier than it should.

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pulled alternator out yesterday, cleaned all connectors and surfaces, changed belt and tested, still gives 2-3V only. Cant stop wondering, what was that strange noise and smell and as soon as the Battery light came on,the weird sound was gone.. It works nice and quiet now without squeal and gives 2-3V only

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20 minutes ago, stantheman1 said:

What's the voltage across the battery terminals (pos and neg)when at idle and when revved to 2000rpm?

That is what you need to test. 

I'm confused as to how you are measuring this with the Battery disconnected. NEVER run an alternator up with no load (battery) attached because of the risk of transient high voltage spikes damaging the diode pack and/or regulator. And NEVER disconnect just the Battery from a running engine, the same applies only this time vehicle electronic system are at risk as well as the alternator.

 

 

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We posted together.

So at face value those results suggest a failed alternator. The voltage rises at shut down as the electrical load of the car is removed from the Battery

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You should be getting 14v-ish across the alternator when it's running... 12v is too low! That's what the Battery outputs when the alternator isn't running...

I was suspecting the belt because you mentioned a small, as a slipping belt makes that nasty rubbery smell, but if it's more of a fried electrics smell and you're getting only 12v when running then it may well be the alternator!

Hard to know what else to check as the electrics are normally bulletproof on the Mk1s!

 

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mooly

thanks, im no pro, and wanted to see if the wiring isnt messed up somwhere,so what i did is I disconnected the + output on alternator and measured there and - on Battery ground, so car had a power just from the Battery and in this case ot was showing 1.3V idling and 3V in 2000rpm

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thanks cyker for imput

 

i also think its an alternator and now wonder which part of it is behind the weird noise which stopped as soon as the Battery light came on

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  • 2 weeks later...

any1 can tell me what can go wrong if I use 14V 70amp alternator instead of 12V 80amp?

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They will all be rated to 12V, you need to fit the correct alternator for the car and year

PM me your VIN number so i can look up the correct part for you

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flash22

ive sent u a vin..i think i need a 12v 80Amp, but already orderd 14V 70Amp that why I wonder

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I'm going to say that all other things being equal... a 70A vs an 80A machine will probably make little difference in practice. Where the 70A might struggle would be idling with many electrical consumers on such as headlights, fog lights, heated window, wipers and aircon. That would start to push the limits. The alternator wouldn't be damaged but you could end up with the Battery being pushed into a discharge situation as it supplies the demand over and above what the alternator can supply.

Fwiw, the old Ford Escorts we had as company vehicles had 28A alternators fitted.

 

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Jap built, 04/2005, NCP20L-CHMNKW, Colour - 1D2

As it's a Jap built car it may use different parts compared to the EU built ones, you also need to be aware of the size and type of pulley also the alternators can have different offsets and wiring types

70 and 80 amp alternators are listed for your vin

27060-21011 - 12v 70A

27060-21031 - 12v 80A

 

 

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DAN966 is what I ordered..14V 70A

the alternator rebuild specialist told me that the one I have in car 27060-21011 is 12V-80A

so now I dont know if I use the new one, I can run into problems???

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thanks so much flash22, I think I stick to one which I ordered (DAN966) and the mechanic just wanted to sell me more expensive one.

 

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1 hour ago, lubo said:

thanks so much flash22, I think I stick to one which I ordered (DAN966) and the mechanic just wanted to sell me more expensive one.

 

Denso is the OEM for Toyota, the DAN966 is the correct one for your car !!

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might be that the regulator is faulty.  I would be surprised if anything else has gone - they're pretty robust items.  Bearings can wear (you would hear a whining noise), the exciter wire can break (Battery wont charge properly) and brushes can wear out.  Not much else really.  If you've already bought your replacement no problem, if not it would be worth changing the regulator.

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corradovr6

I think it was a diodes and maybe regulator blew too..as I couldnt get replacement parts anywhere for decent price (what i found was nearly 100e) i just bought new alternator (160e)

Any idea where to get parts for reasonable price?

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