Valvematic Controller (222A0-37022) fault

[avetoy]

I thought it might be useful to start a new topic about that expensive part?

I'm interested to know if anyone has managed to fix it?

I know that there could be electrical and mechanical failures...

I'm dealing with this problem right now and mine seems to be electrical (error code U0110b). I have also opened the device a bit and was able to rotate the "wheel" inside,so it is not stucked.

Rotating it also made the car work better, i.e. the engine revs normally.

There are a lot of russian videos about valvematic on youtube, but the "fixing" is about how to get the wheel stucked ( so that the intake valves are on high lift position all the time), or just replacing the whole unit.

 

[flash22]

if you have freed it off, you need to perform a relearn/test with techstream

[avetoy]

 

Only the black "box" was loose a little for me to rotate the wheel inside. And even the three exposed wires were in place the whole time.  

I had not enough time to dismantle the whole valve cover. I will do that when I get the replacement actuator (IF I get one).

I´m afraid no tests will work since there is an electrical fault?

[Konrad C]

Majority of the Valvematic issues I have read about, seem to happen on cars from 2010/12 model years. I personally think there was a faulty batch of controllers, but not officially confirmed. I have not had any issues with my 2009 ('58 plate) Valvematic.

[avetoy]

My car is also  2009 but it has 355tkm on the clock already...

I consulted local Mr.T workshop boss and he said there has been a few cases where the gears inside has been damaged and caused a stuck. 

[avetoy]

 

One interesting possibility would be to "kill" the entire valvematic. For examble like this:

https://ecutools.eu/chip-tuning/sv-edit/module-valvematic-off-full-denso-toyota-lexus-1/

It is easy to delete mechanically, but the ecu needs to be modified to remove the annoying indicator lights from the dashboard. And of course there should be no dtc (because of the mot).

My skills are not enough to modify the ecu and it also requires special software...

[avetoy]

I finally got time to take the electronic (box) away from the actuator and I opened the plastic cover.

I don´t know much about electronics and only thing I could check was the capacitors; both of them seems to be o.k visually.

I turned the actuator plate 8 turns and locked it. The car works well and there doesn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary. Even idling is fine. 

I was told that it is possible to fool the ecu to ignore the actuator etc, but that will cost quite a lot...

I guess I'll have to wait until I find a suitable (=cheap) engine that I can remove the actuator from and install it in my car. Luckily no hurry.

Of course I would be pleased if someone could give me a tip where to buy (in eu area) used actuator for less than €300.

[avetoy]

Updating: 

I managed to buy a cheap engine from which I got a working valvematic actuator. 

I installed it today and the car is fine again. Before 1st start I deleted all dtc codes and when started MIL was gone. There was only "check epb" left on dashboard which went away too after 2nd start.

The engine I bought has driven less than 60tkm, so I believe the actuator will last as long as the rest of the car.

Then I just wait for the next problem...

[Konrad C]

18 hours ago, avetoy said:

Updating: 

I managed to buy a cheap engine from which I got a working valvematic actuator. 

I installed it today and the car is fine again. Before 1st start I deleted all dtc codes and when started MIL was gone. There was only "check epb" left on dashboard which went away too after 2nd start.

The engine I bought has driven less than 60tkm, so I believe the actuator will last as long as the rest of the car.

Then I just wait for the next problem...

Glad you fixed the problem. Quick question - What grade of engine oil do use? I have firmly stuck with 0w-20 fully synthetic for my Valvematic, and I change the oil myself.
Another thing to note, is the the control was plug and play, unlike other manufacturers where some components need to be coded to the car/engine.    

[avetoy]

When I bought the car, the entire service history was 0W20 and usually done by Mr. T. So I have also used 0W20.

The actuator was plug and play indeed (some pros said it can't be done without Mr. T's equipment). Anyway, a cheap dtc reading device was needed and maybe even disconnecting the Battery cable for a while would have been enough.