Another Valvematic Controller issue - safe to drive?

[BAZ101]

2010 Auris 1.6 Petrol (UK)

Got the EM light on motorway with delayed acceleration but no limp mode/reduced speed. Took car to local mechanic who got the P1049 code relating to the Valvematic assembly controller.

Had the car for over 5 years, serviced it annually with genuine Toyota 0w-20 oil and filter. Don't think incorrect oil or servicing is the main issue for the failure of these controllers - just a bad batch/engineering maybe.

Will have to source a new/used controller eventually, but need the car for work and short trips. Won't be using any dual carriageway/motorway until fixed.

Will there be any further damage to the engine if car is driven for a few weeks until repaired? Mechanic said it will be fine for short journeys, but just wanted opinions from others who had the same issue - did you drive until fixed?

Thanks.

[BAZ101]

Apologies - posted in Avensis Club! Please feel free to move to Auris Club 🙂

[TonyHSD]

Hi, 

I don’t think you will have any further issues if you are continue driving like this except the unpleasant experience. Vvti fault won’t mess completely the timing so pistons can hit the valves therefore no risk of destroying your engine. Perhaps you can do research on that in Google and see if my thoughts are correct or not just to be on the safe side. 

[BAZ101]

@TonyHSD, I had a look in the forum before I posted and understand that the controller will need replacing eventually, but wasn't sure if I was damaging the engine by driving it around. 

The EML is always on yellow, but no misfiring or erratic revving etc. Only thing is acceleration is slower - It's like I'm driving a 1.0 Micra!

Had a good look at the controller under the hood and the faint part number reads 222AO-37017. From searching on google and eBay, the only new replacement part number available is 222A0-37025. I'm hoping this is just a revision and still fits the car?

At over £800+ for a new unit plus £150+ fitting at an independent, I'm not sure if it's worth spending £800+ on new, or risk getting one from the breakers for around £250. Either way, I won't have the funds for a few weeks, so hopefully the engine will be fine until I get it fixed. 

[avetoy]

16 hours ago, BAZ101 said:

Will there be any further damage to the engine if car is driven for a few weeks until repaired?

As far as I know, there will be no further damage. The Valvematic controller is basically just an electric motor that controls the lift height of the intake valve.

When it is broken (electronically*) the lift height is minimum and that is why the acceleration is poor and fuel consumption may also increase.

( *= It can also be mechanically broken (=stucked) but that is quite rare...)

The new replacement parts are revisions (better?) and will fit your car.

By the way, the Valvematic controller is the same for all engines (1.6, 1.8, 2.0). Mine broke down last December and the spare part was from a 1.6 Corolla even though my car is 1.8 Avensis.

I bought the whole engine because I can also get other parts (sensors, etc.) from it as needed. It was relatively cheaper than just a V-M controller. The srcab yard keepers know that new controllers are expensive, so they keep their prices high too...

[TonyHSD]

Buying a used one from another car only worth if it’s cheap, like no more than £150 or so and from a donor car that is newer like 2012-> . Otherwise better buy a new one., imagine you spent £500 used all in and after two months fail again, then will be £950 + those £500 . , things will get even worse. 

[avetoy]

 

I don't know about the price level in the UK, but in January when I was seeking, scrap yard prices here were €400 (£345) or more (that is why I bought the whole engine!) Mr. T asked for almost 1000 euros. The prices were a little cheaper somewhere abroad, but I didn't dare to order...

Some scrab yards didn´t even want to sell the VM actuator separately at all.

As Mr. TonyHSD said, the donation car must be 2012 or newer. Mr. T has probably succeeded in improving the VM actuators by then.

[BAZ101]

Thank you both for the tips. The cost of a new replacement would be about 25% of the car value.

I have enjoyed driving/owning the car, and especially like the rear flat floor which is rarely available on other cars.  I have had no other issues than routine wear and tear.

Options are a cheap fix and part-ex, or new unit and keep car for as long as possible. Looks like I will have a big decision to make soon.  

[BAZ101]

6 minutes ago, avetoy said:

 

I don't know about the price level in the UK

Dealer prices seem to be £1000+ just for the unit. Independent part supplier is £800+ (OEM). I think they import direct from Japan and the latest part number seems to be 222A0-37025. 

[avetoy]

1 hour ago, BAZ101 said:

Options are a cheap fix and part-ex, or new unit and keep car for as long as possible. Looks like I will have a big decision to make soon.  

The used actuator is not a bad option in my opinion. All you have to do is find a suitable motor and disassemble the actuator yourself. It might take some time to find it but scrap guy may not charge so much if you do the job?

The work is quite simple; no special tools needed except a pentagonal socket. Sorry, don´t know the size, I used pliers...

There are some videos on youtube about it!

[BAZ101]

Just thought I would give you all an update.

The required parts include:

Valvematic Lift Controller (222A0-37025) THERE ARE AT LEAST 10 PREVIOUS SUPERSION NUMBERS

222A0-37025, 222A037025, 222A0-37023, 222AO-37024, 222A0-37015, 222A0-37016, 222AO-37017, 222A0-37018, 222A0-37019, 222A0-37020, 222A0-37021, 222A0-37022

O-ring for the controller - Part Number: 90301- 38010 (even a new controller will not come with this attached!) This is very difficult to find in the UK and will most likely have to be imported.

Gaskets for the rocker cover - you won't know the condition of the existing ones until the cover is removed.

I wasn't able to source a new controller from reputable dealers and wasn't willing to risk a Japanese import or eBay. I ordered a used one from a breaker (£249) who assured me it was in good condition. Luckily it arrived with an undamaged O-ring attached, so no need to find a new one!

I saw a video on youtube by R4UL TV "2009 TOYOTA AURIS VALVE MATIC CONTROL UNIT REPLACEMENT" which goes through the most simple way to replace the controller, without having to remove the cams or adjust timing etc. A few of the mechanics I went to said they would have to remove the cams and readjust the timing etc, and said it was a full day job and will be charged accordingly.

Luckily, I found a mechanic who was willing to follow the video and did the job in just over two hours - charged me £100 which I was happy to pay. Straight swap and clear EML codes - no messing with cams, timing, programming.

Car is running fine with no further EML lights, and I felt the difference when driving away from the garage. Total cost was £370 for parts and fitting which I am more than happy with. A new controller/parts plus fitting would have been £1,000+ 😞

Hopefully the car will give me trouble free motoring for a few more years 🙂

I hope this helps anyone unfortunate enough to experience the dreaded valvematic controller failure.

 

[avetoy]

17 minutes ago, BAZ101 said:

A few of the mechanics I went to said they would have to remove the cams and readjust the timing etc

I'm sure they knew there was no need, but...

Anyway, glad to hear the car is fine now!