Auris overheating

[Bubby]

Hello everyone I’ve got an issue bought a Auris 1.2 2016 

drained coolant and turbo coolant well I think that what it was ! 
refilled both up slowly to avoid air started up without heater on 

fort all well and good ! 
went for test drive and it got up to temp half way on gauge 

but when you put foot down and go over 2000 rpm the temp gauge flies up to the red and beeps !!!! 
it comes back down when you take your foot off the gas !!! 
any ideas please before I take it in to dealer fort I would save myself a fer quid by doing it myself !!!!! 

[tsikis007]

Thermostat half open????

Dirty radiator????

[Bper]

Hi Dale,

I would check for any fault codes when the fault happens to see what the ecu has. if the engine isn't overheating then the fault could be with a faulty thermostat or the engine coolant temp sensor perhaps starting to go faulty.

if the ecm detects a voltage condition that seems abnormally low or high then it will set a code for that sensor,as the ecu uses that sensor to monitor the coolant temperature and temp guage readings etc.

The first thing I would do is check that the coolant level is correct as per the level in the expansion tank, if it is low or coolant is being lost then they need to refill and attach a coolant pressure tester to force the leak to appear. 

Did you have any problems prior to changing the coolant etc.?👍

[anchorman]

You’ve got your “ris”s mixed up, this is Ya ris not Au ris but did it do this before you changed the coolant?  Does the heater get hot?  You might have air in the system which will cause the symptoms.   See about bleeding it.  

[Bubby]

Thanks guys had no issues at all before coolant change !

all levels are correct ! 
temp gauge however goes up quicker than it used to ! 
and heater gets hotter quicker too 

could it be thermostat from when I

replaced coolant it didn’t like it and knackered it up there is a plug connected going in to thermostat housing what be that for any ideas 

thanks for your rapid response

cheers Dale …

[bathtub tom]

1 minute ago, Bubby said:

Thanks guys had no issues at all before coolant change !

Then it looks like that's causing it. I'd suggest an air lock and the system needs bleeding.

[Bubby]

Sorry to be a pain  the stop start function doesn’t work ! 
I have a little message saying “battery charging”  now and again coming up 

is it from the Battery being old and

i think ifs the original Varta one

thats what I I saw on utube !!!! 
 

[Bper]

message is for a fault with the charging system. The stop/start system may not operate if the Battery doesn't have sufficient charge. 👍

[APS]

5 hours ago, Bubby said:

but when you put foot down and go over 2000 rpm the temp gauge flies up to the red and beeps !!!! 

If that's a sudden change, it sounds like an electrical fault like a poor connection or short circuit when you accelerate (i.e. the engine moves). I doubt there's anything wrong with the cooling.

[Bubby]

2 hours ago, APS said:

If that's a sudden change, it sounds like an electrical fault like a poor connection or short circuit when you accelerate (i.e. the engine moves). I doubt there's anything wrong with the cooling.

So it’s needs to go in to Toyota for a scan in your opinion, rather than chuck money at it for temp sender unit ! Or thermostat? 

[FROSTYBALLS]

Topic moved to the Auris forum.

[Parts-King]

I suspect you have two faults, air in the coolant system and a faulty Battery. Stop start will stop working for many reasons, including other fault codes and a poor Battery. Try bleeding it properly first and test the battery 

[TonyHSD]

Air locked into the system very likely. 
One tip if you gonna try to replace coolant again, before you drain the coolant start the car and set heating in manual mode with AC off at max temperature and fan speed 1. 
Turn off engine, undo the cap on the expansion reservoir, then go down the radiator and undo the drain valve, wait until you drain the whole system as much as possible. 
After you complete draining, measure the old coolant quantity for reference. 
Start feeling up until reservoir is full and can’t take more, leave it open and start the engine and confirm same settings on the heating as before, max temp, fan speed 1. 
Let the engine idling for around 20-30 min , and be ready to top up coolant as necessary, keep it at max level. After these 20 min or so the thermostat should open, the coolant should start circulating through the radiator and the cooling fans should kick in and spin fast, coolant will be sucked from the reservoir so you need to be ready to top up again. This is most popular way of bleeding car cooling system and works on many cars with some exceptions. 
Good luck 

[Derek.w]

12 hours ago, Bubby said:

Thanks guys had no issues at all before coolant change !

all levels are correct ! 
temp gauge however goes up quicker than it used to ! 
and heater gets hotter quicker too 

could it be thermostat from when I

replaced coolant it didn’t like it and knackered it up there is a plug connected going in to thermostat housing what be that for any ideas 

thanks for your rapid response

cheers Dale …

Bring engine radiator fluid up to temperature with filling cap off max speed 2000rpm then just watch for air bubbles you can squeese rad pipes now and then to assist in removing trapped air.

 

[Bubby]

50 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Air locked into the system very likely. 
One tip if you gonna try to replace coolant again, before you drain the coolant start the car and set heating in manual mode with AC off at max temperature and fan speed 1. 
Turn off engine, undo the cap on the expansion reservoir, then go down the radiator and undo the drain valve, wait until you drain the whole system as much as possible. 
After you complete draining, measure the old coolant quantity for reference. 
Start feeling up until reservoir is full and can’t take more, leave it open and start the engine and confirm same settings on the heating as before, max temp, fan speed 1. 
Let the engine idling for around 20-30 min , and be ready to top up coolant as necessary, keep it at max level. After these 20 min or so the thermostat should open, the coolant should start circulating through the radiator and the cooling fans should kick in and spin fast, coolant will be sucked from the reservoir so you need to be ready to top up again. This is most popular way of bleeding car cooling system and works on many cars with some exceptions. 
Good luck 

Thanks Tony,  I’ll do as you say on Monday and let ew know the outcome manual mode, max heat  and  position 1 on fan motor ? 
 

[TonyHSD]

1 hour ago, Bubby said:

Thanks Tony,  I’ll do as you say on Monday and let ew know the outcome manual mode, max heat  and  position 1 on fan motor ? 
 

That’s right, 

heating to the max, manual mode, ac off and fan speed 1.  These should be set beforehand draining old coolant out and after refill with new coolant prior to start the engine and begin air bleeding. 👍

 

[AndreyR]

On 2/22/2024 at 5:39 AM, Bubby said:

Hello everyone I’ve got an issue bought a Auris 1.2 2016 

drained coolant and turbo coolant well I think that what it was ! 
refilled both up slowly to avoid air started up without heater on 

fort all well and good ! 
went for test drive and it got up to temp half way on gauge 

but when you put foot down and go over 2000 rpm the temp gauge flies up to the red and beeps !!!! 
it comes back down when you take your foot off the gas !!! 
any ideas please before I take it in to dealer fort I would save myself a fer quid by doing it myself !!!!! 

Hi all!
I have Auris 1.2 with a similar problem.
Mileage 112000 km
I haven't driven a car for two weeks. After starting the car began to overheat. Antifreeze did not drain. Changed the thermostat on the cylinder block. I did not change the second thermostat on the water pump. The car still overheats while driving. Tell me if you managed to solve the problem.
Thank you!

[AisinW]

I always check if the heater is hot after draining coolant.  Some car have bleeding procedure, but generally we must assure that the heater is full blast hot and no air trapped in the heater core.  message the upper radiator hose a bit to burp it. There is a special funnel that fits radiator cap tightly and can do bleeding process much safer and faster. 

Gurgling sound when the engine is reved up or fluctuating temperature are typical signs of trapped air in the cooling system. 

[Bubby]

Just an update on the Auris I had a months warranty left on car so they came and picked it up on a flat bed and took it away ! They had it on scanner and let it tick over for a while and took it for a long drive and it was fine to my disbelief ,the only thing I can think of is when it was on the back of the wagon jigging about the air lock burped out !  
they didn’t do nothing at all the pipes at all they said it’s been fine ever since up to half way on gauge and heater great ….. sorry I could not find the problem