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Where Is The Pcv On A Uk 1990 3sge


jimbob1975
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I think it's on the opposite end of one of these two pipes, probably the fatter one? But I doubt that it's causing you to fail an emissions test. A more likely culprit would be the egr system, but I don't think the UK 3s-ge celica has one (could be wrong, but I've never come across it). What is it failing on (HC or CO)?

pcv_pipe.jpg

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I think it's on the opposite end of one of these two pipes, probably the fatter one? But I doubt that it's causing you to fail an emissions test. A more likely culprit would be the egr system, but I don't think the UK 3s-ge celica has one (could be wrong, but I've never come across it). What is it failing on (HC or CO)?

pcv_pipe.jpg

Hi Mick,It is failing on both I will post some pictures up!

The home tune man could not sort it out he was just as stumped as me !

No air leaks anywere,no leaking vaccum pipes the high emissions are right through the rev range!The only way we could get it down to about 2.5% was to pull all the vacuum pipes off to let it pull in as much air as poss but we could no get tick over below 1500 so no good!

He checked all sensors which where ok timeing,plugs ok!

I said it could be pcv but i don't think our cars have one but just a vent on top of the rocker cover!We tried the adjustent on the bulk head but made no difference to readings!

I thimk I may have my pipes all muddled up so if I post pics could I compare them to yours please mike?It would eiminate one problem.Cheers :)

P.S Your right no egr system,no cat,no o2 sensor.

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Have you got any fault codes stored in the ECU?? - might narrow it down a bit.

Failing that - bridge T1+E1(or TE1+E1 depending on year of manafacture) on the check connector and readjust the mixture to 1.50% CO in diagnostic mode.

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All the pipes in your photo's look correct.

Looking at your emissions printout, it is clear that your car is running horrendously rich. I am assuming that you have the engine fully up to temp before taking readings.

One thing that could cause this is a fault with the fuel system. I am thinking of a sticking fuel injector, or faulty fuel pressure regulator. Both of these are fairly unlikely IMO, but it would be worth checking the manifold pressure reference pipe is connected up to the FPR, as you said you have been disconnecting pipes. It's on the other side of the engine, and a short section of tubing connects onto the back of the inlet manifold.

Before you start testing fuel system components, I would check over the following:

1) Cold start injector. It's possible that this is chucking in extra fuel when it shouldn't be. Simply unplug it while you measure the emissions.

2) Engine coolant temperature sensor (THW). If it's always reading cold, then the ECU would be adding fuel (but then I think it you would be seeing fast idle all the time as well).

To test the THW sensor, run the engine up to temp and turn it off. Then unplug the sensor and measure the resistance across it with a multimeter. It should be less than 1k ohms. I think the THW sensor is the one with the green plug:

thw.jpg

Then possibly check the pipe to the MAP sensor is not split/leaking at the joints. It goes to the right place, but it looks like a non standard pipe. Also it should have an inline diaphragm thingy (presumably to stop petrol vapour getting into the MAP sensor), but it seems to be missing on yours. So possibly check you map sensor is behaving.

Also, the throttle position sensor incorporates a switch to indicate when the throttle is closed. If this is not working, it could be tricking the ECU into adding extra fuel. It's easy to test with a multimeter.

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All the pipes in your photo's look correct.

Looking at your emissions printout, it is clear that your car is running horrendously rich. I am assuming that you have the engine fully up to temp before taking readings.

One thing that could cause this is a fault with the fuel system. I am thinking of a sticking fuel injector, or faulty fuel pressure regulator. Both of these are fairly unlikely IMO, but it would be worth checking the manifold pressure reference pipe is connected up to the FPR, as you said you have been disconnecting pipes. It's on the other side of the engine, and a short section of tubing connects onto the back of the inlet manifold.

Before you start testing fuel system components, I would check over the following:

1) Cold start injector. It's possible that this is chucking in extra fuel when it shouldn't be. Simply unplug it while you measure the emissions.

2) Engine coolant temperature sensor (THW). If it's always reading cold, then the ECU would be adding fuel (but then I think it you would be seeing fast idle all the time as well).

To test the THW sensor, run the engine up to temp and turn it off. Then unplug the sensor and measure the resistance across it with a multimeter. It should be less than 1k ohms. I think the THW sensor is the one with the green plug:

thw.jpg

Then possibly check the pipe to the MAP sensor is not split/leaking at the joints. It goes to the right place, but it looks like a non standard pipe. Also it should have an inline diaphragm thingy (presumably to stop petrol vapour getting into the MAP sensor), but it seems to be missing on yours. So possibly check you map sensor is behaving.

Also, the throttle position sensor incorporates a switch to indicate when the throttle is closed. If this is not working, it could be tricking the ECU into adding extra fuel. It's easy to test with a multimeter.

Hi,There are no fault codes and the fuel pressure is correct and I have unplugged the cold start injector and that made no difference to readings,so that is working ok.MAP sensor pipe is not leaking.

How do you adjust the mixture in diagnostics mode?

TPS checked ok.

Coolant temp sensor is ok.

Bit stuck really,when it was connected to the gas analyser I altered the adjuster on the bulk head and it made no difference?Should it have or could it not be working?

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I don't know if the mixture adjuster is 'live' all the time to repsond to your twiddling of it. But to set the mixture properaly I think you need to be in diagnostic mode (the usual - bridge TE1 to E1 with the engine running). This locks timing and fueling, and is the only time you can accurately adjust the mixture pot. If the pot doesn't do anything in diagnostic mode, then it would definitely be a strong suspect.

The thing that concerns me is that you should not never really need to adjust the mixture. In your case it is so far out that I think there is something seriously wrong with your fueling system. Even if you can adjust it out with the mixture pot, the fueling is likely to be wrong everywhere else beyond idle. You could lean out under power and totally wreck your engine. Be careful.

Does your fast idle (when cold) work OK? If the ISCV is sludged up (quite common) the ECU would be forced to richen up to maintain idle speed. I take it you have checked the air filter/induction system is not blocked, choking the engine (unlikely at idle though). Have you done a compression test?

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I don't know if the mixture adjuster is 'live' all the time to repsond to your twiddling of it. But to set the mixture properaly I think you need to be in diagnostic mode (the usual - bridge TE1 to E1 with the engine running). This locks timing and fueling, and is the only time you can accurately adjust the mixture pot. If the pot doesn't do anything in diagnostic mode, then it would definitely be a strong suspect.

The thing that concerns me is that you should not never really need to adjust the mixture. In your case it is so far out that I think there is something seriously wrong with your fueling system. Even if you can adjust it out with the mixture pot, the fueling is likely to be wrong everywhere else beyond idle. You could lean out under power and totally wreck your engine. Be careful.

Does your fast idle (when cold) work OK? If the ISCV is sludged up (quite common) the ECU would be forced to richen up to maintain idle speed. I take it you have checked the air filter/induction system is not blocked, choking the engine (unlikely at idle though). Have you done a compression test?

Hi MikeB,I have jumped the TE1 and E1 and adjusted the mixture pot and the car is now running superb (It has never run as good as this since I bought it!)

Using my dads gunsons gas analyser I have set it to just above one percent!

The car ticks over smoothly, and accelerates like never before, smoothly and cleanly all the way to the red line!

Have got it booked in for a re-test tommorrow so will see if the readings are similar to ours and hopefully it will pass!

P.S The ISCV is clean as I checked it and compression is good.

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