91 Toyota Corolla Doesn't Like To Stay Started

[Diblue]

I have a 91 toyota corolla that when started up the first time of the day, it dies a few times, before it will stay running. After it finally stays running, it is a few minutes later before you can press on the gas pedal, without it trying to stall out. It only seems to do this after sitting for a while, and doesn't seem to do it after the intial start up in a day. If you press on the gas pedal, it acts like it's cutting off the gas, and it spits and shudders, and sometimes backfires, and tries to die. Once it's been warmed up a bit, it doesn't die on me, but it runs rough, and acts like it's got a miss. I have recently replace the plugs and wires, the starter, and the ignition switch. It also has a new alternator, and Battery in it. The check engine light is on at all times except for when I am accelerating at 50+ mph. the second I quit accelerating, the light comes back on. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

[Mick24]

First thing you have to do,is find out what is causing the Engine Management light

to come on.

Go to the link for the Checking procedure -

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

It could be a Vaccum/air leak causing a lean mixture,Faulty Lamba Sensor,

Clogged Fuel Filter,Faulty Ignitor Unit - hard to diagnose without knowing what fault codes you have.

[Diblue]

tyvm for your reply!!

sry, the codes it's putting out according to my haynes manual, is this...

CODE: 12

CIRCUIT OR SYSTEM: RPM signal

DIAGNOSIS: No "Ne" signal to the ECU within 2 seconds after the engine is cranked. no "G" signal tot he ECU two times in succession when engine speed is between 500 rpm, and 4000 rpm.

TROUBLE AREA: Distributor circuit

Distributor

Starter signal circuit

Igniter circuit

Igniter

ECU

CODE: 22

CIRCUIT OR SYSTEM: Coolant temperature

DIAGNOSIS: Open or short in the temperature sensor circuit

TROUBLE AREA: Coolant temperature sensor circuit

Coolant temperature sensor

ECU

I understand that that's a pretty basic DUH check out the listed trouble areas. However, I don't have the proper tools at home to test those. I can probably get ahold of what I need, but I've never worked a whole lot on the electrical end of car work.

[Mick24]

What's the Model code and engine code of your Corolla and the mileage Diblue ??

[Diblue]

What's the  Model code and engine code of your Corolla and the mileage Diblue ??

←

Ummm....ok, those are some fairly new terms for me, sry. I have a 1990 Toyota Corolla 4AFE, not the 4AGE engine. It's just a little 4-banger, with 4 doors. It's not anything fancy, just a plain ole Corolla sedan, automatic.

The mileage....on the car total is 258,000 Miles. However, since I have owned the car (bought about 5 yrs ago) I have rebuilt the transmission (about 2 months ago), and it has a newer but used engine in it. (installed a couple of years back) The ***** that installed the engine for me, didn't bother to get the milleage off the car it came from (had it out with them over that) But he thinks it was around 50,000 miles (doesn't make much sense to me, but okay) This most current problem started out....I would turn the key, and it would click once, but wouldn't turn over. Finally, after much deducing, and a Haynes manual purchase later, we replaced the Starter, the Ignition Switch, it has a new Battery and alternator, and new Battery connections. The shop that did the transmission work for me, told me that the guys who installed my engine put an engine from a manual car, into my automatic, without replaceing the metal piece that the throttle cable runs around, and the tranny shop fixed that for me. Since then, it has had a few minor issues, this being the newest one. My uncle doesn't think it has anything to do with any of the work the tranny shop did (he's the other mechanic in the family, and he's as stumped as I am on this prob.) My dad thinks it may have jumped time, and that's my prob....I'm wondering if they didnt' reset the throttle cable correctly. I have no idea, and have had no luck in locating a timing light just yet, to check the timing on it. That's a little history about my car. I have replaced/rebuilt just about everything on this car, and recently to, so it SHOULD be worth it to fix it, no matter what it is.

[Mick24]

That's pretty high mileage but seeing as it's not the original engine then you can start to look for specific faults instead of " the engines worn out and dead".

Code 12:

1)Check the electrical connecters to the Distributor for Corroded/Loose or worn pins - clean with contact cleaner.

2)Check the electrial connecter to the ECU - can work loose/corrode.

3)It's possible that the Ignitor is faulty and if you have a IIA type distributer,it is built in and not replaceable - go to a wreckers and get a good used one.

Code 22:

1) As above - check the connecter and earth(ground) leads on the engine.

2)Check Coolant level in the radiator and make sure you have no air locks in the system.

3)If you have/borrow/steal a multimeter,you can take the Coolant temp Sensor out and check the resistance across the terminals at different temps - your shop manual should have the readings( approx 0.4 to 0.6 ohms at about 176 degF ).

I dont think the timing would have slipped as it would run like a sack of Sh*t or not at all due to valve damage.

Assuming the Compressions and valve clearances are ok,fuel filter not clogged - it could be something simple like a split vaccum hose causing all your problems.

Hope some of this helps you

[Diblue]

cool, and tyvm for the input on this...I will see what I can do to check those things out, and see what's going on there. I wasn't sure if it would be the timing or not, as all the solutions seem to point towards something electrical. What throws me off is it talking about the rpms, and the check engine light going off as I accelerate. It has started backfiring, but the wires are definately getting good spark through them, so I don't think it's that. My husband and I have crawled all around in the engine compartment looking at and for the lines, checking for splits and brittle lines.

[Diblue]

O.K. Here's something fun....(good but fun) Basically, I have done nothing else to the car here. I have checked the timing and what not, and it's all fine, haven't touched anything else yet, due to lack of tools. The only code the car is flashing and repeating is code 22. Which I know what that is, even if my Haynes manual shows it in a a diff location. That's gonna be $25 to fix. I'm running some injector cleaner through the tank, have allready run one bottle through, and I'm gonna run a few more through it. It seems to be helping, as the car didn't die when first started today, it did spit and sputter some, but stayed running on first try. I'm praying it's not he fuel pump, as that's gonna run me $150 to get, and a lot of mess to get to.

[Diblue]

Well, I got it fixed!! Yay!! It was a couple of things. It was the Coolant Temperature Sensor, and the wires on the plug to the Collant Temperature Sensor. The two wires that plug into that sensor were exposed, and touching, which was part of my problem, also, the sensor that I pulled out of there didn't look good at all. So, I replaced the sensor $25 US, and I got some liquid electrical tape for the wires, and it starts right up no probs now, and runs a lot better!!

[Mick24]

Glad you have sorted the problem