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1995 Corolla Engine Sensors


d3nn1sh
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Hi All,

First of all I want introduce myself as a new member of this Toyota Owners Club. I live in Jakarta Indonesia and drive a 1995 Corolla with 4A-FE engine 1.6 liter twin cam 16 valve; with automatic transmission.

I have a question about the problem I have that I need to have some guidance from this group.

Since last month, the engine of my car doens't seem to have a stable rpm at idle position; and most of the times the rpm needle is moving around 900 to 400 rpm back and forth.

I have brought it to the authorized Toyota service and got the ISCV valve replaced, but after a week the problem occurs again. And using the Toyota Intelligent Tester, it showed that all engine sensors that connected to the ECU are all working normally.

Can anyone please show me some lights on how to detect the problem(s) and possibly solve this engine problem that I'm having.? :help:

Many thanks in advance,

Dennis.

post-4-1058843066.jpg

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Dennis

It sounds as though you have trapped air in your coolant, this is a common symptom where the rpm needle bounces back and forth. The reason it does this is because when the sensor meets the air pockets it confuses it, then the air pocket moves away and the sensor returns to normal until the air pocket comes around again.

To try to resolve this, I suggest you remove the radiator cap from your radiator and run the engine for around 20 mins. During this period keep topping up the water in the radiator as it 'self-bleeds' the air out from the coolant system.

Nad

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Dennis

It sounds as though you have trapped air in your coolant, this is a common symptom where the rpm needle bounces back and forth. The reason it does this is because when the sensor meets the air pockets it confuses it, then the air pocket moves away and the sensor returns to normal until the air pocket comes around again.

To try to resolve this, I suggest you remove the radiator cap from your radiator and run the engine for around 20 mins. During this period keep topping up the water in the radiator as it 'self-bleeds' the air out from the coolant system.

Nad

Hi Nad,

Thanks for your response and suggestions.

Ah...., this sounds like I have waste a lot of radiator coolant in doing so. :o

How much radiator coolant do you think I have to prepare in doing this diagnostic test when running the engine for 2 minutes.? Is it a safe method for doing a test.?

But I will consult your suggestions wiith some of my Corolliants buddies here first.

Thanks,

Dennis.

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Another common problem that can cause this is a leaking vacuum hose. And on these engines (4A-FE, 7A-FE) they have quite a few.

:thumbsup:

Hmmm....., you have a good pint here, since the rpm needle also droped whenever I pushed the brake pedal, especially when doing a hard stopping, the rpm needle would dive to the around 400 to 300 and the engine felt like almost shut-down.

I will also check the vacum hose that connect the intake chamber and the brake booster.

Also, this weekend I'll try to replace the vacuum sensor that has one hose that goes to the intake chamber as well. and see if the idle rpm will be stable then.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Dennis.

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