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sporty
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i was just reading what everyone is saying about bhp figures,

and they keep saying about turning the boost up.

Can you do this yourself if so how,

if not where can i get it done and how much.

if you can how do you know what the boost pressure is

to keep it at a safe pressure.

Thanks :help:

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to turn the boost up you need either a manual or electronic boost controller. Electronic costs about £300 a manual one costs £25.

you'll need a fuel cut defencer to raise the fuel cut, available from places like fensport for £100.

then you need an aftermarket boost gauge (£50) so you know how much boost you're running.

you can do all the work by yourself, the boost controller takes about 15 mins to fit (esp if you've got an induction kit), the fuel cut defencer only takes a few mins as well and the boost gauge is easy to fit just a bit time consuming taking out the centre console etc (where i ran the gauge hose)

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forgot the mechanical boost controller can be had from this bloke grainger valve

boost for a rev 1/2 should be set at 15psi

where the little hose comes out of the turbo to the actuator is where the valve fits. whilst doing that you might as well cut and block off the short little hose that comes out of the actuator and goes towards the back of the car, this goes to the vsv and it's this that limits boost when the outside temp is 4 degrees or less. blocking it off and raising the boost accordingly means that you will no longer experience the sluggish feeling when you can't full boost because it's too cold.

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it's the annoying 'safe mode' that toyota gave it. they used the logic that because cold air is denser you can get more in so don't need to run as much boost so it drops the boost level by 3psi which makes the car a lot slower those !Removed! idiots.

operates at about 4 degrees c, or when using low grade fuel like unleaded or super unleaded.

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block off the vsv hose (the little hose out of the actuator aiming towards the back of the car) and turn the boost back up 3psi as it'll be in permanent safe mode, but once the boost is turned back up those 3 psi no matter what the weather is like you'll run the same boost.

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stupid monkeys !!.....  is there an easy to to stop this "PANTS" feature ?

/me goes into serious mode

This "pants feature" could help stop unvoluntary sideways action...

Think about it, if its cold outside, ground can be slippy, u turn a corner higher boost kicks in more chance of u spinning outa control...

/me outa serious mode

Now that the safety speech is over...

It's PANTS, get rid of it Jimlad!! :thumbsup:

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Here ya go m8:

Boost Questions - Post

For Gen III's.......personally I wouldn't run 18 psi on a CT26.....actually I wouldn't run 15 psi on one either but that just my opinion, 13 psi max AFAIC.

First off buy a decent aftermarket boost gauge. On a Gen II mods wise an Intake is AT LEAST needed, preferably an aftermarket exhaust too. As said above an fcd is needed to up the boost to 15 psi.

Gen III no fcd is needed unless you wanna go above 18 psi, at least exhaust in a Gen III + intake but as the Gen III stock intake is far better than the stock Gen II one 15 psi is fine with just exhaust....again AFAIC :)

Cheers

KiwiMR2

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on a rev 1/2 13psi is a bit low, not really worth it. The ct26 can take 15psi although it starts losing boost at above 6k by this time you'll be changing gear anyway.

rev 3 (ct20b) 18psi is fine

just make sure you fit a boost gauge as i didn't do it straight away and was boosting over 20psi at lower revs. Now running 15psi until i get w.i and ct20b turbo when i'll run 18psi

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never mind I would prob get this from fensport...

CT26

Completely rebuilt using New Steel shaft and 48mm compressor wheel - rebuilt & balanced to racing standards, Choice of uprated actuator - 360 degree Thrust bearing.

Guide:- Our top of the range CT26, The choice for serious power, Ideal up to 1.5 bar boost, on cars with larger fuel injectors and forged pistons. Full boost is available from 3,200 rpm.power up to 360bhp.

The turbo plus forged pistons is about £1180. The I would need larger fuel injectors and an uprated clutch.

So we're looking at about £1680.

The garrett turbo is about £1600.... but I think I would most prob go with the first option.

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Not much point in just fitting a rev 3 turbo to a rev 1, 2 engine - you need the other parts - such as the larger injectors, different ECU, I believe that the head and whole turbo system arrangement and parts are somewhat different (from the pictures of the two engines. I believe the only similarities are the engine block and components - i.e. the cylinders, block, crank etc.

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Not much point in just fitting a rev 3 turbo to a rev 1, 2 engine - you need the other parts - such as the larger injectors, different ECU, I believe that the head and whole turbo system arrangement and parts are somewhat different (from the pictures of the two engines. I believe the only similarities are the engine block and components - i.e. the cylinders, block, crank etc.

Depends on how avalible a CT20b is where you are....if there readly avalible at good prices it's well worth the $$.

It's a straight bolt on, however the ct20b has an extra stud on the downpipe flange. You simply remove that stud, and your existing stock or aftermarket downpipe will bolt on fine. Rusty bolts etc are your worse enemy :(

Rough diy:

# Inspect new turbo for problems.

# Read BGB.

# Remove engine cover.

# Remove trunk lid.

# Jack up car. Place on jack stands.

# Remove muffler.

# Remove B pipe.

# Remove brackets holding primary cat.

# Remove primary cat.

# Remove brackets holding turbo.

# With freind up top and 2- 12 inch extensions and a couple of universals and a 13mm socket remove the Oil line fron the bottom of the turbo.

# Up top. Remove intake elbow going to the intake side of the turbo.

# Remove hoses and pipe between turbo and intercooler.

# Remove line from canister on turbo to driver side of engine.

# Disconnect water line going to the turbo.

# Remove 02 sensor fom exhaust.

# Remove heat sheilds from exhaust and turbo.

# Remove exhaust manifold bolts. Remember 2 hidden ones on the bottom.

# Stand in trunk, place foot on head cover, grab turbo and pull.

# Turbo is out. Beer.

# Take off exaust manifold from old turbo and attach to new turbo.

# Take the turn pipe off the old tubo and attach to new turbo. This is where you may need to remove a stud.

# May have to take the old block off plate off the old turbo and put it on the new one.

# Your turbo heat sheild is gonna have a hole that will not line up. Drill a new one while you have the turbo out.

Cheers

KiwiMR2

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I would have thought that in order to see an appreciable performance difference, the other support parts would need to be fitted - I could be wrong, but I thought this was one of the reasons why larger injectors were fitted to the 2nd generation 3S-GTE?

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In the UK the early turbo's are used for the hybrids .. but the later internals in the earlier housing.

Owens will be recieving a wad of my dollah soon for one.

If you have a rev3+ they will give you and old turbo housing etc but you will have to pay £100 surcharge as they have to buy in the housing and they are not cheap and very hard to get ahold of.

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the reason that i'm changing to ct20b turbo is it'll pull better at high revs as it's more efficient.

fensport turbos are made by owens or at least they were so might be better off seeing if owens are cheaper than fensport.

the turbos are old turbos completely reconditioned with bigger impellars etc.

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