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Compressor Dyno'd - Dissapointing :(


jamie.ross
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Hi Guys,

i bought a K&N Typhoon kit for my compressor a few wees ago and it sound amazing with the supercharger!! Although, i had noticed it was a little lacking in go after fitting it so i had the car dyno'd and the typhoon kit caused an amazing loss in torque and BHP untill nearly 8k RPM!!! Im sorely dissapointed with ths product and will be taking it further with K&N. I have since put the stock air filter back on and had it Dyno'd again and the Torque is back up and so is the BHP. Has anyone else had their Compressor or T-sport Dyno'd for comparison??

I will of course post the results so that you can see for yourselves the difference between them.

The BHP level with the Typhoon kit was 205bhp (Flywheel) and without the kit its 200bhp (but with far better torque). It was done on a DASTEK Dyno and if it is as accurate as im being told, where the <I thought I could get past the swearing filter - what a sad muppet I am eh?> did Toyota get their figures of 215bhp??? Ive got her running on V-power so its not the juice she is running on and the ECU was reset after changing over the filter.

OK rant over any comments or advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

J

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How many miles did you drive after you reset the ECU ? You have to drive 100-200miles to do full ECU reset.

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How many miles did you drive after you reset the ECU ? You have to drive 100-200miles to do full ECU reset.

I had done around 90 miles but the lift was used once or twice as well ;)

So you think i have not alowed the ecu to reset fully?

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How many miles did you drive after you reset the ECU ? You have to drive 100-200miles to do full ECU reset.

I had done around 90 miles but the lift was used once or twice as well ;)

So you think i have not alowed the ecu to reset fully?

mmm hard to tell, but after I installed my typhoon kit i felt some power gain :/ so its wierd that you are loosing power.. Are all the vac cables OK and MAF clean ?

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Disconnect your negative Battery lead if you want to be sure about resetting the ECU. There's also a fuse you can pull but not sure which one it is on the Corolla.

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Disconnect your negative battery lead if you want to be sure about resetting the ECU. There's also a fuse you can pull but not sure which one it is on the Corolla.

if you disconnect the Battery then its done the job, removing the fuse is not necassary. the ecu should sort itself out almost instantly.

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iwith the Typhoon kit was 205bhp (Flywheel) and without the kit its 200bhp (but with far better torque). It was done on a DASTEK Dyno and if it is as accurate as im being told, where the <I thought I could get past the swearing filter - what a sad muppet I am eh?> did Toyota get their figures of 215bhp???

You'll never get past the swearing filter, there's no point trying. The bastard is fool-proof.

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Don't be too annoyed Jamie. All dynos (except ones where you measure the wheel hp) 'guess' the power output and should be taken with a pinch of salt. Just because you didnt hit 215 doesnt mean its not running at 215. If you went to a different dyno you'd get a different result as they use different correction factors to guess the crank HP.

What its good for is measuring the difference in mods you have put on. If you have lost 5bhp from the filter and did it on the same dyno, then you have lost 5bhp. I agree with you on the air filter though. I just put a Blitz Sonic on my Compressor powered Mr2 and I noticed the same when driving it. Very lumpy between 1-2k rpm and it didnt seem as quick on pickup. People get induction kits for the noise not the power. How did it feel when you drove it?

Thing to remember is the Compressor is not intercooled and very receptive to heat. When airs compressed it heats up (Boyles law) and an induction kit although draws more air in, its from the hot engine bay which is compressed and heated further resulting in a greater chance of detonation, so the ECU pulls the ignition timing to accommodate, which looses power. Also dyno runs are done in 4th gear so its not going to be the same air flow on a dyno (even though they have fans) as driving at 110(ish) at 8k on a road.

Dont be too upset by the 'low' top end figure. Its the midrange these babies really shine.

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iwith the Typhoon kit was 205bhp (Flywheel) and without the kit its 200bhp (but with far better torque). It was done on a DASTEK Dyno and if it is as accurate as im being told, where the <I thought I could get past the swearing filter - what a sad muppet I am eh?> did Toyota get their figures of 215bhp???

You'll never get past the swearing filter, there's no point trying. The bastard is fool-proof.

:D

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if you disconnect the battery then its done the job, removing the fuse is not necassary. the ecu should sort itself out almost instantly.

Obviously... I was including the fuse pull in case they didn't want to have to reset the radio etc....

Disconnect your negative battery lead if you want to be sure about resetting the ECU. There's also a fuse you can pull but not sure which one it is on the Corolla.
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iwith the Typhoon kit was 205bhp (Flywheel) and without the kit its 200bhp (but with far better torque). It was done on a DASTEK Dyno and if it is as accurate as im being told, where the <I thought I could get past the swearing filter - what a sad muppet I am eh?> did Toyota get their figures of 215bhp???

You'll never get past the swearing filter, there's no point trying. The bastard is fool-proof.

LOL

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Don't be too annoyed Jamie. All dynos (except ones where you measure the wheel hp) 'guess' the power output and should be taken with a pinch of salt. Just because you didnt hit 215 doesnt mean its not running at 215. If you went to a different dyno you'd get a different result as they use different correction factors to guess the crank HP.

What its good for is measuring the difference in mods you have put on. If you have lost 5bhp from the filter and did it on the same dyno, then you have lost 5bhp. I agree with you on the air filter though. I just put a Blitz Sonic on my Compressor powered Mr2 and I noticed the same when driving it. Very lumpy between 1-2k rpm and it didnt seem as quick on pickup. People get induction kits for the noise not the power. How did it feel when you drove it?

Thing to remember is the Compressor is not intercooled and very receptive to heat. When airs compressed it heats up (Boyles law) and an induction kit although draws more air in, its from the hot engine bay which is compressed and heated further resulting in a greater chance of detonation, so the ECU pulls the ignition timing to accommodate, which looses power. Also dyno runs are done in 4th gear so its not going to be the same air flow on a dyno (even though they have fans) as driving at 110(ish) at 8k on a road.

Dont be too upset by the 'low' top end figure. Its the midrange these babies really shine.

Thanks for the morale boost, i appreciate it. ;)

I will post the figures so that you can see the difference the air filter made when run on the dyno.

Cheers!

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you don't reset the ECU in compressor by disconnecting Battery or pullin fuses out

it's done by-

turn key to Battery

hold down accelerator pedal until ECU light flashes (takes bout 40 secs)

then start up

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disconnecting the battery will have the same effect as thte accelerator trick.

as far as i'm aware the disconnecting the Battery only works on N/A t sport and doesn't work the same on the compressor

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