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Starting Problems On Avensis? Solution.

83 posts in this topic

A most excellent breakdown of my gradually more occurring problem when starting. I found more likely to happen when car interior hot due to a summers day effect. I have an Avensis 1.8 petrol hatchback 1998 with 99300 miles on clock. I bought my switch (refurbished!!) from JAPARTS online for £37 including p&p. No numbers on it but works fine.

My only problem was trying to dismount the 2pin black connector from the switch body. I left this socket mounted whilst removing the switch body, I could then see more clearly how to release the lock on the black socket body.(no damage occurring) to socket.

I found on the old switch it was quite easy to disassemble. The device is very well made and tooled. I believe the only fault was the little springs that hold the contacts in touch with the two sliprings were getting tired. I stretched them all and reassembled switch. Believe I have a fully working unit again. Hindsight is wonderful. I measured the contact resistance on attaining start position and have consistently less than 0.4 ohm.

A good check to test if the switch is weak is to disconnect the starter solenoid trigger connector at back of engine, Remove the 5amp start fuse in the fuse box by your right knee on right-hand drive car, check voltage output at top skt of the fuse seat and observe the voltage. Mine was varying from 0volts up to 12.6volts. (fully charged battery) by multiple operations of key.

I had already had the starter motor unit off and bench checked with old battery (excellent operation) also had checked slave relay in fuse box in engine compartment.(excellent operation).

I have gone belt and braces and fitted a fused normally open button which fitted in the engine compartment fusebox, between live of battery and line tap to black wire underneath the slave relay, (just in case) All starter motor solenoids should still have the good old manual button for the odd emergency.

P.S. your photographic skill is a lot better than my shaky efforts.

Best regards


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Thank you Rvail, I read you article as the symptoms were just as discribed by various contributors, turning the key back to front, one time, then jiggling it about another time, anyhow I ordered the part as you listed, my Toyota is a 1998 2.0 TD Avensis for the record, with just 100K miles on it, & thought that it may have been the whole switch & barrel / lock. but no, after struggling with the 2nd screw on the new switch for about 5 or 10 minutes, put the key in the ignition & hey-presto, first turn & she started perfectly, Just can't thank you enough, Best wishes & regards Nigel

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Hi Everybody , Thank you all for this very informative and interesting forum .

i am a happy owner of a COROLLA (ZZE112L-DLMNKW) , 2000. since three weeks , I am having a probleme with IGNITION KEY STARTER SWITCH 84450-02010 which need to be replaced but unfortuntealt this part is not available in Tunisia.

do you have any sugegstion or advices ( online dealer or direct contact seller )

thank you


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I have had a lot of help from this forums members regarding starting problems with myToyota Corolla V reg 1999 1.3 E11 for parts renewal, in particular one member garethpaul who has indeed gone out of his way to help me, thank you gareth for pointing the way here, however does anyone know, of or have a link to any site that shows dissassembly and assembly of the specific ignition switch/barrel for the said Toyota which has the same malady that the aforementioned Avensis had before the how to and the fix. help very much appreciated.

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I had the same problem with the my Avensis not starting. Looked on the owners club and saw this thread. I bought the part from Ebay for £24.99. Fitted for 45.00 (mobile mechanic), in 45 mins. and working ok. Thanks Rvall. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110743856625?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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In addition to Rvall's excellent workshop I wanted to add my experience with this switch problem. Like all of you I recently started having startup issues with my Toyota Avensis 2.0 CDX. I started noticing that I had to apply a little extra force when turning the key when starting but I thought this just me trying to be overly gentle. Over a few months this symptom became ever more apparent until one glorious sunny day@ 30 degrees I went to start the car. I turned the key and nothing. Looked like flat battery so I tested battery with my multimeter which showed that there was no problem with battery or starter motor. Cutting long story short I was searching on the internet and came to this post and bingo, my problem all explained so clearly.

Fortunately for me when I took out my ignition switch following Rvall's instructions the ignition switch connector was not damaged in any way (the square hole on top of the white cap which accepts the shaft from the barrel).

Note: It would be wise not to exert extra force turning the key when this problem arises as I believe many of you could have avoided the extra cost of new switch.

Anyway, after extracting the switch I carefully pried open the latches which hole the white cap to the black base. Keep the white side facing down and slowly lift the black base off.

Here is the switch opened up:

You will notice that the copper contacts are clean and shiny. Unfortunately I took the picture after I cleaned the components which had a layer of black oxidation.

I carefully cleaned the copper contacts on the base and the loose steel/nickle contacts with Maplins contact cleaner. I then used 1500 grit paper to sand the contacts to remove all the black oxide layer. I also sanded the steel/nickle contacts.

This next part is quite critical for the switches' longevity. Before assembling you have to apply a suitable lubricant and I search good and hard to find the right great to apply. Here is link to what I used: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/oils/3375925/?sra=pmpn

I used Electrolube CG53A synthetic grease. 

A word to the wise, don't use WD40 or silicon grease. Arching always occurs in these switches and Silicon will turn into silicon carbide within the arc. This is sand and will eventually wear down the contacts. Synthetic grease evaporates.

Apply thin layer of grease to all components and reassemble.

That's it.

My switch is working well so far. Only time will tell. Best thing is I spent only £10 on the grease compared to £81 for a new OEM switch from Toyota. 




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here are a few more pictures:




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Fantastic bought the part new on eBay £20 delivered and fitted it myself, new part was different in that the connections on the side didnt go on but works great.

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