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Hi all, Can someone explain the difference between MapCare and Map update? See attached pic.. almost the same cost. Do i need both or it it enough with one or the other? Sorry abut Sek.. Regards // Hans

Update on this: Tried to have the camera inside in the house on a warm location for a few days. No change, probably have to purchase another one. Thanks for all the suggestions. Regards // Hans

Mystified

Hi, I can’t answer your question but there is my checks that I would do if I am about to buy a used car with known oil consumption potential problems. Oil level dipstick check, should be at the max and be clear with no signs of darker or dirty on it. Exhaust pipe end , stick a finger inside and if you get black and oily residue it’s. A sign of an oil burner, usually Toyota engines burn clean and have rusty exhaust ends ., a lots of steam and clear water comes out when cold.

Confused.

@ThomasBZ Check the intake of the air cooled battery. It is on the rear seat area. Toyota sell a clipon screen that you can install a paper filter behind it. You can clean it every year to keep your battery life long.

14 years is amazing. Mine is barely 8 years old. Tony's battery failed from 1 of the cells completely dead and it is typically what happened when battery died. The capacity gets lower and lower and it is fine for most hybrid car. However, if one of the cells dead, it is dead.

Hello i have a toyota Hiace. Happens often when im draggiing on the brakes, then press harder to stop, something makes a screeching noise and feels like it pulls left some. Not pads, not drums, replaced speed sensor, replaced ABS modulator. No lights on dash board. help!

For the vast majority of time drivers are travelling forwards, so the front lights are lit to make other road users aware that they are approaching. For this reason, the rear lights don't need to be illuminated. Aside from the above, most cars nowadays have reversing lights.

Hi all, I'm looking at a Toyota Yaris 1.33 Dual VVTI (1NR-FE) 2012 onward - I have read some posts regarding oil consumption issues in the 2009-2011-ish models. Was ths issue actually fixes in 2012 onward models? I'm looking at used, higher mileage models (90k-ish miles) but I don't want to land myself with an oil burner. The budget can't stretch to a lower mileage example at the mo. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

I recall sorting the brakes on my brother's sit-up-and-beg Ford, shortly before his driving test. Straightened the brake rods and replaced the clevis pins. Examiner stated "the brakes on these aren't normally that good".

For comparison of computer accuracy I did a brim to brim over the first part of the journey and which gave 30mpg, pretty accurate.

Yeah but why only the front and not the back? It doesn't make sense to me. Then again I've never thought DRLs were a good idea in the first place as they make everything that doesn't have DRLs - Motorbikes, cyclists, pedestrians etc. harder to pick out. Given the responsibility has shifted completely to drivers, making us more visible and other road users proportionally less visible seems slightly contradictory when what we need is for vulnerable road users to be made more visible to us!

DRLs are designed to make other road users aware of your approaching vehicle - hence why only front lights are required.

Sorry, can you clarify what you mean? DRLs are only supposed to be on at the front, no rear lights - Doesn't make total sense but that's what the law mandated, nothing to do with Toyota as they're just doing what they were ordered to do, same as all the other manufacturers. The auto lights are only designed to turn on your dipped beams and rear lights when it gets dark enough, but it will do both.

Yes, I’ve had several other cars and the rears were wearing out quicker than the fronts - I believe some cars use the rear brakes for the cruise control braking and also the stability control to tighten up the cornering. my auris wore out the fronts first, I used to have to clean the rear disks on my auris by braking firmly in neutral every few weeks as normal braking wasn’t clearing them. the Corolla hasn’t required this.

50% more miles than mine so maybe it'll happen on mine but it gets swapped in early September in any case. If I'd have bought the car and it happened I'd definitely pursue. Good look with the tour North of the wall.

I find it strange that the lights on auto are only on at the front not the rear.I know there is a position to turn to to active both together but it means having to turn them on and off when turning the engine off .Can the dealer set them so front and back come on and off automatically?

Yep I believe the warranty for any serviceable part would’ve been voided. The 2nd owner only kept the car for around 10 months, covering approx 8000 miles. The listing price was £26k in March last year, now WBAC has valuation of £16.5k, so his loss is almost £10k, which is huge. He part-ex for a Seat Tarraco (which I could confirm due to private plate swaps), which makes me think a change of his circumstances may be a reason for him to bear a £10k loss on a not expensive car. Of course, your points are absolutely valid, hence my hesitant. Thanks for pointing out the problem with insurance, will pay attention when renewing insurance.

"Ready Mode" is just hybrid/EV-speak for "On" i.e. brake pedal+start button

That would have been perfect. Some US owners of the R4P have used the traction battery to power their homes in California when the grid power goes off.

I need to read up on the "Ready Mode" mentioned a lot on the forum, but haven't a clue about it 🥺

The 2nd owner part-ex it at the used car dealership for a Seat Tarraco, after keeping the Corolla for around 10 months.

I'm having a 2020 1.8 Corolla and have always felt light vibrations in the accelerator pedal between 2000 and 3000 RPM only. Tried a demo car and felt pretty similar feeling. Have been told by the dealer that it is "normal" but I can not avoid to focus on that issue. Please let us know if any solution is found by your dealer, i would be very interested.

Thanks, My previous Prius (2009) had a maintenance free (sealed) battery, AGM type branded Toyota (made by Yuasa). So not sure why Toyota went backwards in terms of progress by fitting in 2016 batteries that could be topped up. There seem to be very few new car batteries of this type in 2024, so maintenace free seems to be easier option which is fine. I found the same Yuasa 012 battery that Halfords offer on sale cheaper here including postage: https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx5012/ Regards, John