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I guessed from your name that you might explain better in Spanish 😄 Two repair manuals: Engine - 3S-GE Chassis & Body You didn't say which engine you have. Maybe the 7A-FE, 3S-FE, 5S-FE. Wiki - Toyota Celica

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/6a66c23c-e2f5-4a38-ab34-112f825b9ed3/Yaris-Cross_Side_Step_PW388_0D000_AIM_006_461_0.pdf

No.

Can't see anything in settings regarding climate control. Mine is MK3, are you talking mk4?

Needed it after all

Si por favor ! Muchisimas gracias. Me falta Algo de UN alambre creo. El starter esta bueno y Nueva pila. No arranque el carro. Voy a tomar photos . Maybe Solenoid

Will be helpful someone with same engine to have a look and take a picture. Imagine those are indeed for the radiator fans, are you using AC in the car, te radiator fans should be on and off many times while ac is ON.

From another recent thread, i can confirm that disconnecting the bonnet sensor attached to bonnet latch does indeed disable the alarm. The alarm usually arms itself after 30 seconds when using remote to lock the car. Not aware of there being any sound or ultrasonic sensors on the car. That sensor in the interior light is for the handsfree mic for phone audio. As far as im aware the alarm sensors are triggered by simple door switches. As Tony suggests, check your tyre pressure, as i cant complain about ride comfort on my auris 2016 hatchback with 16" alloys.

Hi, you can disable the interior sensor and the bug eventually will die or find its way out. For poor comfort you may have over inflated tyres, something to check on cold first thing in the morning before the sun sees the car and before you drive off. Car suspension is sensitive about tyres pressure and if these are way out ot will become harsh and crushing, if too low it will become very squishy and wobbly. My Auris was not great with 17” wheels but o have replaced these with smaller 16” and the car has a nice rubbery feel, tyres are also best in business and these helps actually a lot.

Hello to all of you I've read all of your comments about this "thing" with the 12V batery I don't have my Yaris cross yet ( end of June probably ) but I want to be aware of what to do. So, my car will ride 2-3 times a week, 10 minutes or less, twice a day on work days. Longer rides at the weekends, sometimes. Sometimes not A big ride, twice a year. I think when I have the car it will be different, but now is more or less this way with my 10 Year old 2008. So with this use, it is probably that I will have troubles with my 12V batery, slowly lowering it's capacity, right? Or don't even think about that, because it is enough? Things to get Voltage meter to connect to the cigarette lighter. Once I detect that being lower than 12.1V, need recharge Ways of doing it Turn on the car to ready, and leave it for an hour, maybe once every two weeks, if I didn't take it to a walk at the weekend. Get a noco or a cetek charger to charge the batery. A problem to me is that this chargers are to be connected to a electric source, and my car will be parked in the streets, no power supply. Is there a battery charger with battery's itself? Is Noco booster a solution? That way I'll have a device that can help other people too, if needed to start their cars, hybrid or not. So many times that it would have been useful, without the need to park side by side and connect the two battery's. But it's expensive. Thanks in advance

I have a new 24MY with the same 1.8 engine. I don't think that it is exactly the same but there were some changes in the 23MY facelift. All I can see in that area is what I suspect is the wiring loom for the two electric radiator fans; and there are no disconnected plugs. It would seem logical that those plugs should be connected, otherwise why are they there? If they are for the rad fans, with summer around the corner, it might be wise to get the dealer to look at it.

I didn’t know the reason why it was there but I didn't really think that it was anything to do with the dealer. My car came from a fleet sales operation, not retail (without going into the details... it is mine, not a company car, and owned rather than leased). The standard of prep was low, as is the norm for such cars; it is the price you pay for the price you pay, so to speak. So I wasn't expecting any freebies!

The 130HP is on the Yaris Premiere and GR Sport specs; Not sure about which Yaris Cross specs get it. Possibly the same, but may be more as its extra bulk would benefit from that extra oomph! To my knowledge, all the Mk4s with the old '2-knob' headunit didn't get Satnav, which I believe is 2022 and older (My '21 definitely is satnav-less!) but I think the 2023 ones did get the new headunit that came with Satnav? Others I'm sure will chime in to clarify!

Oil should be included - They all use automated machines to do it so as long as they press the right buttons (Not a given!) It should evacuate the system then measure out the correct amount of whatever is supposed to go in,

Yes. The short answer is don't put the car into N! You might find the long answer in the manual - if it is better than the Corolla manual. If the traction battery gets low the engine will start to charge it; but only if the car is in D (or B or even in P). The traction battery doesn't get charged in N, hence the warning you saw. If you are stopped at a traffic light and you want to take the car out of D, put it into P; but you don’t need to do that. It is perfectly OK to leave it in D. You won't do any harm at all. It is what the manual recommends. There are no clutches to wear. You could still hold it with the EPB but that is electromechanical and works only on the rear wheels. Better to use the Brake Hold function. Button next to EPB. A firm push on the brake pedal, after you have stopped, activates it. It releases automatically when you press the throttle. It allows you to take your foot off the footbrake because it holds the hydraulic pressure in the brake system. So it works on all 4 wheels.

Hi guys, today I had my headunit start flickering all off a sudden. The screen keeps switching off and on. Does anyone know what’s wrong with it? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. IMG_9987.mov

It is now standard issue on all 2024 model year Toyotas to satisfy Euro NCAP standards. (not a dealer "gimme")

Agreed, the Toyota statement is old news. The article suggests or infers a recent spate of thefts in the Sussex/ Hastings region, if anyone here is from that neck of the woods. Hence flagging more for this reason.

In the main vehicle manual... and... ...in the NAV manual.

One of the fundamental problems with TA in cars is that it is reliant on an FM sub-carrier on the Capitol FM frequency and since DAB & DAB+ came on stream in cars, I don't know of any Head Unit that can successfully switch from DAB to FM and back again after a TA has finished. If you're listening to an FM station, it works just fine but I, for one, haven't listened to an FM station for over 5 years now as DAB is so much better.

I think (the law?) probably requires that a trusted agent decides if it's CAT something before it gets sold off to anybody else. Otherwise any cowboy repairer could make fast money doing cheap fixes. Like any supply chain - the more links the less control.

This is old new news, I think - it merely restates information from the Toyota magazine article in March as discussed in: Back then the security enhancements would be available "in a matter of weeks" / end of April ... it's May now!

Yes, putting the car in N is a big no-no. When you do that it won't charge the traction battery, which charges the 12V battery so the engine will be running for nothing if it's on. The Toyota manual makes this clear, presumably you just missed it in the Suzuki version. Unless you're going to tow your car there's probably no reason for you to use Neutral. There is also nothing wrong with holding the brakes on (or letting the car do it) whilst you're waiting. It won't hurt them and they'll release quicker than the parking brake. If you disagree, just use the Park setting.

Perhaps that explains the difference. This was single carriageway, the car in front of me hadn't changed lane (where it might still have been visible to the camera or radar), it had turned off into a side road; and fairly smartly too as it went through a gap in the oncoming traffic. So it would no longer have been visible to my car. I have found that it typically only reaches about 1mph above the set speed when going downhill. However, I live in Cambs. On the edge of the Fens. Gentle undulations are the order of the day. I've not really driven it down anything steep so far.

What message?