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I'm just doing research prior to possibly purchasing a 2021 Toyota Yaris Cross Premiere Edition and I've came across the possible dead battery issue not only on this Forum, but other online sources. To be honest this would be my first hybrid and does worry me. I do use the car every week and always have a Ring Jump Starter pack (in ALL my cars). Should I "REALLY" be concerned about this?

Heads up for anyone looking ot buy door mirrors to avaid resellers who say they hold stock, but they don't, they take payment and then order a cheap part from abroad. I posted an update - it doesn't look like I'm goinf to get the goods I payed for. I only clocked it when I saw the e-mail domain name "BuyItOnline" for the website "wingmirrorman".

For Sure. I will do it through my credit card. Speaking with them on Thursday they said that they'd received the wing mirror, and that it would be despatched that day and he confirmed I would receive it on Saturday. I also received an e-mail from them telling me " "Guest, Your order #xxxxxxxxx has been updated with a status of Ready for Dispatch (Royal Mail). If you have questions about your order, you can email us at customersupport@buyitonline.ltd." The e-mail domain "buyitonline.ltd" tells me it's not the supplier of wing mirrors but an associate seller, similar to those on e-bay who take orders and payment for parts shipped from China. You are correct, I did read on Trustpilot that someone said the OEM power adjust mirror they purchased from this seller had a limited range of movement compared to the original.

My mistake. Of course it remains connected in P.

Welcome to TOC Mick.

Hi Bper, thanks so much for the tips. I do think that the low oil has caused me some trouble :(. For the powersteering fluid, I topped it up and it has not been leaking since :). I am making an appointment at the amsterdam autofirst garage after this because it it closeby and has indeed very good reviews. Thanks again I will let you know how it all unfolds... Kind regards😁

If 12V is disconnected from HV charging circuitry, why Toyota suggests to leave the car in P position to charge the battery ?

Sorry but no comparison between the C-HR and Yaris Cross 🤦‍♂️ Only you can decide what suits you and your lifestyle but the 2 models are chalk and cheese 🤷‍♂️

During lockdown the 12v battery on my Lexus IS300h failed, it just wouldn't hold a charge. I managed to get a genuine Toyota battery to replace it. It was 6yrs old, which was about right I'm told. When changing one of these batteries don't forget to disconnect the battery vent tube.

Legendary, thanks for the information and good to know. I'll pass it on to my mum!

That's simple. When you shift to N or P, the 12v battery is immediately disconnected from the HV charging circuitry; hence the voltage drop...

The only thing that is not clear to me is why the charging voltage drops of about a Volt moving gear from a drive position ( D, B, R ) to a stationary one ( N or P ) to regain a V when returning in a drive position.

I thought I'd sussed out all of the problems with my Nextbase. I went out today for a 30 minute journey and when I got home, checked the video. The journey to my destination recorded fine, but the journey back home wasn't recorded at all. It was the same when I went out in the evening, it was only my outbound journey that was videoed............Ideas anyone ?

How much of it are posts written by the people who actually have a problem? 😉

Thanks for help. Clutch been replaced , run adaptation via official online techstream with (official) tactrix open port 2 dongle. (8 with something euro a day, or 18 euro for the week). Wasn't easy though... Dropped connection to car number times, some times software didn't see dongle... But eventually it did worked. As clutch actuator wasn't set for clutch works(didn't know first that have to be done), I've manually set it to "start" point (as per some video in YouTube). Shop gave gearbox oil Valvoline 75w80. Put 1.7 liter of oil. Couldn't verify level, as car was on jack's, so front was higher as normally in operational mode. Seems to be everything working fine. Another victory with great community help. 🤝👏 VID_20240430_160134.mp4

Change it to Display Only? That should stay like that permanently. Did that on mine but it's a 2021 R4P. Stop the annoying beeps. Just means you'll get a red speed symbol on the HUD. I don't notice that. I use Waze which I've set to beep each time I go 10 or 15 percent over the limit I think. Can't recall.

I absolutely love hearing of people doing this and simply cannot understand why other cash buyers don’t do the same? It works for used as well as new (usually to a lesser amount granted on used but still!) I apply the same principle to virtually all my finances: car/home insurance, energy suppliers, banking, savings etc etc. Be a “Martin Lewis” and never pay more/ get ripped off.😉 Well done @Corolly Poly for getting such a big discount👍

100 pages in this thread. Anyone would think there was a problem with Yaris Hybrid 12 volt batteries. 🤔

That's neat... but first the secret lumbar support and now this...! Stop making me want to change my mind about not getting one!!!

Checked the injectors resistance, all the same reading. Checked wiring, every pin on this connector (connector on the left in photo 1) would give 12 volts, except the last one, its 0.02 volts or 0 volts. Dunno what that pin is for. Tried different injector driver module, no difference. Tried different ECU, no difference. Codes erased on ignition - engine starts, runs for about 10-15 seconds, check engine comes up, 2 injectors stops working Photo 1 Photo 2 (the last pin - 8th gives 0 volts)

(in the 2024 Yaris, there is actually an acceleration setting in the settings and you can set low, medium or high)

Well, being a bit of a smart ***se, I downloaded the app before handover and the salesman who was otherwise excellent in every way, must have assumed that I was able to set it up with the car. I have written to him but have yet to receive a reply other than that he will get back to me. Here's hoping.

Yeah I was very disappointed with the Mk3 especially - It lost almost all the stand-out features from the Mk1 and Mk2 that I'd associated with the name 'Yaris', e.g. the digital dash, the sliding rear seats, the ridiculous amount of storage cubbies etc. It's funny as you tend to get a lot of those things in the JDM cars, but I guess they don't think that's in-line with european tastes and omit them. I still miss those things in my Mk4 - The Mk4 is more like a ludicrously efficient Ford Fiesta than a Yaris, but I'm fine with that I was looking at some Kei car reviews earlier and they're mental - Some of them have more internal storage and passenger space than some SUVs despite having the footprint of an Aygo! The looks are a bit marmite though... if you don't think a box looks good you probably won't like them either

I receive the verification code every time. I enter it into the app and then get "internal server error". This happens time and time again. Try the code age and "invalid code" appears. Also, tried to read the QR code on the infotainment blue screen to verify my account with the car but my IPhone, which reads every other QR code I have ever used it for, does not like the one on the blue screen (which asks me to agree terms and conditions every time I press the power button). Irritating - you bet!

How much are they charging for the service .