Need Help

[pdrod]

Hi, i just want to check before i proceed that what i'm doing is correct.

I want to do a diagnostic check on my toyota carina e 2li gli 1993. the info i have found on how to do it, says that in the group of 9 terminals, i jump the bottom right & the center one, then read the flashes on the engine management light to give me the code of the faulty parts, but on inspection of the diagnostic terminals in the engine bay, the ones i'm suppose to use are sealed. So is it ok to still put a probe in the terminals to do the check.

I hope you can help many thx.

[pdrod]

IS there no one that can help me with this, i only want to be sure i'm doin the right terminals instead of causing more damage.

[garethpaul]

Look at the diagram on the inside of the terminal cover. You need to bridge the teminals marked T1 and TE1

[pdrod]

Look at the diagram on the inside of the terminal cover. You need to bridge the teminals marked T1 and TE1

Hi garethpaul. i'll do that, but i changed the oxy sensor & that made a big dif to my prob, now i have a prob starting it from cold or rest untill it warms up, then fine, any ideas.

Thx. Paul

[garethpaul]

it could be clogged injectors or fuel filter, or it could be one of the sensors (e.g coolant temperature sensor) do you have a haynes manual as this explains how to check all these sensors using a multimeter

[pdrod]

it could be clogged injectors or fuel filter, or it could be one of the sensors (e.g coolant temperature sensor) do you have a haynes manual as this explains how to check all these sensors using a multimeter

Hi thx for the reply.

I had the injectors overhauled last year & at that time 2 were found to be dirty.

I have not checked the fuel filter as yet & i do not have a manual, but have all the info on checking most of the sensors with a meter.

Funny it started alot better this morning & the air temp is warmer, so i would imagine that it is a temp sensor that maybe at fault, the coolant temp sensor was new last year, Anyway i disconected the ecu last night for awhile then reconnected it, so that should have rest it & now only the faulty part should be rerading on the blink test when i do it.

Paul

OK just to update. I have just done the diagnosis & it came up with 31 = Air flow meter signal. Now the question is, what is it & where is it located. Der me.

[garethpaul]

i think that error code relates to the MAP sensor. This is normally mounted on the bulkhead/firewall and has a rubber vacuum line going to it, as well as power.

Have a look at the picture, it should be roughly in the same place (circled red). Again, you can test this with a multimeter. What you might find is the the vacuum tube is leaking/blocked with oily gunge (also check the fittings on both ends for gunk). Be careful when taking off the vacuum tubing as the plastic nipple on the MAP that the tubing goes over may have become brittle.

[pdrod]

i think that error code relates to the MAP sensor. This is normally mounted on the bulkhead/firewall and has a rubber vacuum line going to it, as well as power.

Have a look at the picture, it should be roughly in the same place (circled red). Again, you can test this with a multimeter. What you might find is the the vacuum tube is leaking/blocked with oily gunge (also check the fittings on both ends for gunk). Be careful when taking off the vacuum tubing as the plastic nipple on the MAP that the tubing goes over may have become brittle.

Yes great thx, i know the part, it's just by the (potentiometer), It may be this that is at fault also cause this has to do with the air flow also i believe. Just have to get map sensor & take it from there.

thx again

OK update from yesterday. I have put a map sensor on & not much diffo. Still no tickover on first start untill it warms up a bit then it ticks over & the management light goes out also. Also when driving there is a slight hesitation on acceleration. Now i'm stuck.