Spluttering Cynos

[Cynos1.3]

hi,

I bought a cynos 2 months ago (96 1.3 model) and last week it started to lose power,splutter and sometimes die out at idle. I spoke to a toyota mechanic and he told me it ws to do with the injectors. I first tried the injector cleaner in the tank and then replaced them altogether. No problems with spark/distributor/coil pack/leads I've checked them all.

Nobody seems to be able to tell me what's up with it? Help please!

[Cynos1.3]

Brought the car to a friends garage today and did a compression test.no compression in cylinders 2&3 so i think the head gasket has blown between the two cylinders and has been the cause of the problem.

I've now been told that if i change the gasket it's only a matter of time before it will blow again and that i should just fit a new engine. has anyone any suggestions?

[BALIKBAYAN]

Why should the gasket blow again? If the mating surfaces are ok and that you fit a brand new gasket it should be ok, unless you overrev the engine when cold, put too much boost if you use a turbo etc...

It is less job to change the gasket than to change the engine.

[Cynos1.3]

Why should the gasket blow again? If the mating surfaces are ok and that you fit a brand new gasket it should be ok, unless you overrev the engine when cold, put too much boost if you use a turbo etc...

It is less job to change the gasket than to change the engine.

That's exactly what i was thinking.as long as the head isn't warped a new gasket should solve it. the mechanics in the garage said that it'd never stop burning oil if i just replaced the gasket and said it would be less hassle to just go and get a new engine. i have the head almost ready to go now inlet & exhaust manifold as well as water pipes and sensors have all been disconnected. does anyone know the sequence i should remove the headbolts??thanks

[BALIKBAYAN]

The mechanics at the garage are right that the engine will continue burning oil, if it did that before headgasket blow up. If the engine is burning too much oil you need to check the piston, pistonrings and the cylinders too. That is the way the oil normally enter the cylinder. Don't forget to grind the valves when you have the head off.

The normal way to loosen headbolts is to use a criss cross way from outside to the inner. Just turn a half turn on everyone the first times until they all are loose. I am job now and I don't have the correct numbering of the bolts in my head, but I have it at home in my computer somewhere.

[Cynos1.3]

The mechanics at the garage are right that the engine will continue burning oil, if it did that before headgasket blow up. If the engine is burning too much oil you need to check the piston, pistonrings and the cylinders too. That is the way the oil normally enter the cylinder. Don't forget to grind the valves when you have the head off.

The normal way to loosen headbolts is to use a criss cross way from outside to the inner. Just turn a half turn on everyone the first times until they all are loose. I am job now and I don't have the correct numbering of the bolts in my head, but I have it at home in my computer somewhere.

Yeah i managed to find a 5efe manual which should have the same sequence for removal of the head.I went to the auto factors today to buy the tool for loosening the head bolts.they told me it was ok to use a T50 torx screw even though it has 6 splines and the bolt head has 12. is there a danger that i'll destroy the head with it? I'm bringing the head away to be skimmed and have the valves reground if necessary.The car never overheated so i don't think it'll be warped much.

[BALIKBAYAN]

I don't think you would damage the head with that tool. That sounds good that you found a manual for the 5E-FE engine. It is almost the same as the 4E-FE engine, but has a longer stroke.

If you want I could mail you the picture of the sequence of loosening and tightening the headbolts.

When mounting the head again the torque is 45 Nm to all headbolts and then another 90 degrees to all headbolts. Remember to finger tighten the hradbolts first before you start with 45 Nm.

[Cynos1.3]

I don't think you would damage the head with that tool. That sounds good that you found a manual for the 5E-FE engine. It is almost the same as the 4E-FE engine, but has a longer stroke.

If you want I could mail you the picture of the sequence of loosening and tightening the headbolts.

When mounting the head again the torque is 45 Nm to all headbolts and then another 90 degrees to all headbolts. Remember to finger tighten the hradbolts first before you start with 45 Nm.

I think I've got the proper sequence thanks. The head has been dopped in to be looked at. The gasket was at the end of its tether. It was nearly gone or cracked in a couple of places. Thanks for all the help I was getting fairly frustrated trying to figure out what was up with the car.

[Cynos1.3]

Does anyone know where I can get just a rocker cover gasket along with the rubber seals for the bolts on the rocker cover?

[BALIKBAYAN]

If you buy a gasket kit for the head you should get those in that set. Best way to get the correct gasket is to go to Toyota, but it could be expensive. There should be some shop around your place that sell car parts, they should be able to get the gaskets for you.