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Hoovie

Rear Brakes Stuck On..... What To Do?

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Now this is not a RAV4 question, but I have every confidence the solution would be none-make specific and so some of the RAVers who 'do' the mechanics will have the answer :)

Got a Sukuki Swift which was serviced a few months ago (October?) and the handbrake was adjusted and apparently was now quite tight (say apparently as I don't drive this car!)

Now today tried to use the car - first time in maybe 2 weeks and the car was stuck and couldn't shift it. Put it into reverse and released the clutch and it was very much as if the handbrake was left full on.

I am not sure if the fix will be at the rear drums or the handbrake end (cable needs slacking off? The handbrake itself seems to have normal amount of movement though)

Any tricks to freeing up the wheels as it could also be a matter of just stuck on after being left unused in the very cold weather... So maybe jack up the rear wheels and manually turn then to release? Or pull the car with a tow rope to do similar? I am reluctant to try and force things using the cars own engine and clutch and risk burning it out :(

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Hoovie

If the wheels were free when it was originally parked, you may have to be quite rough in getting them off. If the brakes are damp or contaminated with Oil, they can stick quite severely to the drum (I am assuming from your description it has proper drum brakes and not "drum in hat" disc brakes with a little drum brake inside the disc).

If it is stuck from corrosion the handbrake will still have normal travel but feel quite free. You really need to try to start the car like you mean it in order to break the bond between the lining and the drum. Sometimes you have to try both backwards and forwards. You can appreciate that attempting to get the drum off is a lost cause. I will warn you that occasionally you end up breaking the shoes when this happens.

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Thanks for advice :)

Won't be able to go backwards AND forwards as car is parked just a few inches from house wall so bit risky in case it suddenly frees up !!

I think these are 'proper' drums going on basis of no discs at rear. I'll need to check if the service co. (kwikfit) did any parts replacement on the drums or just a replacement in the service, but I think the parts are generally fairly cheap and straightforward to fit?

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I'm immediately concerned if kf have been near it.

What have they been up to?

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I'm immediately concerned if kf have been near it.

What have they been up to?

They did a basic service and MOT. Not looked at the invoice yet to see what service included. This was back in October so I'd have thought problems directly from service would have shown before now - though admittedly the miles done since that service are pretty minimal.

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Probably just stuck Hoovie. They will come off with a real bang when they go.

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Hoovie, what surface is the car parked on? If it is hard and flat and you have access to two trolley jacks and some help you could possibly and very carefully lift the rear and manouvre the car away from the wall?

That way you could try the forward and back routine to crack the bond between the brake shoes and the drums.

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Tarmac surface. Got trolley jacks but they are 20 miles away in my workshop, so was hoping for some alternative (especially as there is less then a car length between rear of car and hedge at side of drive and wall is on one side of car as well as in front - bit of tight parking which normally is no problem :) )

I'll try forcing it to go back first and if that doesn't do it, go get the jacks and pull the car away into a better position to try and sort!

Cheers for suggestions - I'll let you know the outcome :)

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Maybe jack a wheel up and try rocking the wheel back and forth (possibly with a leverage bar of some sort?)

Have to do that with a trailer of mine when it's sat too long sometimes.

Dave

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Local rugby team and a few pints.............

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If mine has been parked up for a few days with wet brakes, the handbrake shoes sometime stick to the inside of the drums.

No way will it drive forwards, the back end just starts to squat down and it wont budge.

The only way is to reverse it, the shoes break free and it sounds like a gun shot going off, then all is well again.

What I do then is drive a few hundred yards whilst "gently" applying the handbrake, this cleans any remaining rust from the drums.

It has only done it three times in two years, and only after parking it up following a wet drive home.

Phil

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Well, decided to call the RAC out in the end as I have Home Start and also the extra breakdown repair cover that pays for any parts required to fix (so in case a part was needed, wouldn't have to pay :) )

Guy came out, brought out a chisel and lump hammer, put chisel against drum on first wheel and hit with hammer..... Then moved to other wheel, did same and seen as hammer made contact with chisel head the car rocked and was freed up :D

Job's a good 'un :thumbsup:

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Nice one Hoovie.

Personally I do TRY to remember to leave handbrake off when it's been particularly wet and I know the car isn't going to be used for a few days. Trouble is, putting the handbrake on is ingrained............

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I was going to suggest giving the hub a thump with a hammer but thought it was to brutal !!!

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This is not something I have come across before with brakes, have to say (I did have an Austin Ambassador company car that needed a whack on the starter motor to get that going though )

Thanks for advice, chaps :thumbsup:

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Yes i was gonna suggest a thump with an hide mallet but haven't done that for years when i had the breaks seize on my Triumph Herald,so wasn't sure about a modern car??

Just gotta be careful not to hit the drum too hard as they can break.

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Did a Triumph herald have an engine or was it horse drawn ? What on earth is an Austin Ambassador ??

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Did a Triumph herald have an engine or was it horse drawn ? What on earth is an Austin Ambassador ??

That's the job they gave Steve when he retired as The Six Million Dollar Man......he was in bits when he left.......

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All much before my time I fear !............. :clown:

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Hmm well there is no arguing that it worked but for anyone considering taking a cold chisel to their cast iron brake drums just think on you might be stood looking at the brake shoes inside if you do it too hard. I suggest a broad faced drift might be better.

And here Mr Shuttleworth will praise the virtues of the amazing Austin Ambassador;

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That was like a video CV of my own Ambassador (or the Flying Pig as we used to call them) as mine was indeed a 'Y' Reg 1.7L and was actually the most comfortable car I have ever had at the same time as being by far the most unreliable and the worst car I have ever had! Oh well, at least in the 13 months of 'ownership' I got to drive a hire Sierra approx once every 2 weeks while the Austin was in the garage being repaired yet again.

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You could wear an Ambassador out without actually using it. It was quite capable of astonishing decay from the moment it came off the line.

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My Brother had one, seem to remember it needing a new engine as I had to give a hand "lifting the car" as the engine comes out the bottom!

Might be mixing Austins cos he also had the more luxurious "Princess" as well!

Meanwhile I was in a Datsun (not a Nissan, it was a Datsun!!)

Old Dave

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My Brother had one, seem to remember it needing a new engine as I had to give a hand "lifting the car" as the engine comes out the bottom!

Might be mixing Austins cos he also had the more luxurious "Princess" as well!

Meanwhile I was in a Datsun (not a Nissan, it was a Datsun!!)

Old Dave

Is that right, Sunny.....?

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