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kt66

Replacement clutch & service cost....

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I have a dilemma on my 2007 2.0 D4d.  It's due an Mot and service (118,000) in the next few weeks but there's also very little left on the clutch (biting point is right at the very top of the pedal). 

Does anyone have any suggestions/ideas on what a clutch would cost to get done (I'm between. Stafford and Telford).  A big potential bill makes it all a bit marginal... 

 

Help! 

TIA

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Are you sure it's the clutch?

I think these cars have an automatically self-adjusting clutch so you never really should feel that the clutch is thinning out, at least in theory. Is the clutch slipping or any other signs of it going bad?

If this is the only problem then it might be an issue with the hydraulic system, but others might correct me.

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Thanks. It's more that I feel that it's so near the top of the pedal that surely it "must" be on the way out. I've done the "handbrake on, in gear and bring the clutch up" and it does stall. (good). Would the self adjustment mean the bite point is always in the same position? 

My concern is that if I get it serviced and MOTd and had to add a clutch on (now or in the near future) then that sort of bill would potentially make it uneconomic - I'm guessing that a clutch would be £400-500?

 

I really like the car though - it's perfect for my needs... 

 

Any thoughts or pointers are much much appreciated. 

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Yes, the self-adjustment thingy was introduced exactly so that the clutch doesn't need to be manually adjusted every 10k miles or so, and the point of it is that the bite point is always at the same location. The exception is only when the clutch is on it's last legs, think like the last 5% of it's life or something, but then you should get a host of different issues.

What happens if you go on a motorway, drive at 50mph or so at least, put it in 4th or 5th gear and stomp on the gas pedal? As in really stomp it, not gradually push it down to the floor. If the revs jump up for half a second or so but the car doesn't go any faster then it very well might be a slipping clutch.

I would also recommend going over your master and slave cylinders, they can and do go bad at some point. See if there's any brake fluid loss above normal, or maybe the slave cylinder is covered in dirty sludge, as if it has been leaking very slowly. Also check under the dash where the pedal connects to master cylinder, see if there's any fluids there. It should be dry up there.

 

Sorry, I can't really say anything about the prices since I'm not from UK, but I think the clutch disc alone is not that expensive. On the other hand people usually recommends changing everything in there while it's open so you don't have to open it all up again, so that's the clutch disc itself, pressue plate, flywheel, release bearing, fork.. That's probably where the big costs are coming from.

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That's brilliant. Thanks for taking the time to do that. I'll give your suggestions a go later in and come back. Fingers crossed then it's not so big a deal. 

Thanks again 

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You can simply ask for a clutch replacement quote plus the master and slave cylinder to get an idea what they cost.

Sent from my SM-A500F using Tapatalk

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6 hours ago, kt66 said:

My concern is that if I get it serviced and MOTd and had to add a clutch on (now or in the near future) then that sort of bill would potentially make it uneconomic - I'm guessing that a clutch would be £400-500?

Toyota say from £610 depending upon exact model. Being a diesel it probably has a DMF so if you want that replaced too at the same time expect quite a bit more.

Of course a 3rd party will be cheaper than a dealer.

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Thanks for that. Yes I could do with finding an independent near me really as it's just not worth spending that kind of money on it by the time I've added a service and Mot. 

 

 

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If the clutch is not slipping it could be just the pressure plate. But obviously you would replace all. As others have said probably need to do the dmf too economically. 

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Thanks 

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