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Kmac888

Brake bleeder screw seized

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Hi everyone I'm trying to change my brake fluid but can't get the rear (drum) bleed screws off. They are very rusty and the hex is rounded off. When I eventually get them off I want to replace them with new ones. Does anyone know the size I need? It's a 2002 Yaris 1.3 5dr (Jap not French) thanks 

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Just go to the dealer, they'll give you the right ones and two bleed nipples won't break the bank.

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If they are well corroded you will snap them off, very rarely do they come out cleanly, spray them down with your penetrating Oil of choice and leave overnight but be prepared to replace the wheel cylinders (if its really bad brake lines as well)

I have been down this rabbit hole a few times over the years

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I try and avoid the dealership if I can. Hopefully I can get them out but need to know what size to order from ebay or eurocarparts (maybe the dealership will tell me??)

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Are you are using hex, rather than bi-hex sockets on the screws?  The hex will fit better on these 8mm (I think) heads.

Also, from personal experience, it can be worthwhile to try tightening the screw a little bit before you then loosen it.  To say that this needs to be done with great care is an understatement.  Trying to move it in and out repeatedly can work well.  I have done this to successfully loosen bleed screws that the garage were reluctant to go any further with, for fear of them snapping the screws off.

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That's a tip my late father taught me many years ago. Always try and tighten a stubborn screw a little before attempting to loosen it... Good tip. I've nearly always found it to be effective.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

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No I was just using a normal spanner....couldn't move it and didn't want to use too much force. I was thinking of applying heat but it's a confined space....I'm going to take it to my mechanic he will have better tools than I have - my main focus is finding some replacements when he (hopefully) removes them

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Ah it depends if the wheel cylinders have been replaced previously, assumption is the mother of all failures - if it needs new cylinders they come with new nipples

 

Edit. i can only guess at a part number without a vin 47547-20010 but that's only one of 5 numbers

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chassis number is JTDKW123303095754 

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Use a mole wrench - or equivalent...Tighten up as far as possible so you have a strong grip.

Spray with Rust Remover .or vinegar DO NOT USE WD40 - it does not dissolve rust.  Vinegar - or Coca Cola - canned - does dissolve rust...(I am serious  see You Tube - it works - it also rots teeth_ Leave 24 hours and repeat Leave another 24 hours..

 

Tighten a little first. And then use a Very light hammer and tap gently to release -- just a little - and retighten .. and repeat.. .(the shock is better than brute force applied by hand)

 

If you do it slowly and carefully you will eventually remove the nipple.. The working to and fro dislodges the rust ...

 

(Used this technique on glow plugs as well where a snapped one  is an expenive PIA_

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Excellent tip thank you. 

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My 2 go to's at the moment are GT85 and DEB Duck Oil

You may want to get a mod to remove that VIN..............

Build Date. 01/2002 Japan (JPP)

Model code. NCP10R-AHPGKW

Paint code. 8B6

Gearbox. 4FC

 

According to the epc they are 47547-20010 Plug, Bleeder (For drum brake, rear) assuming they have never been changed for aftermarket ones

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That's great thank you for talking the time to look into that much appreciated 

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I've a receipt somewhere that states: "1 bleeding screw". Couldn't bear to throw it away.

 

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All good advice, plusgas would be my preferred release agent. The important thing, as others  have said but woth emphasising is not to be impatient and rush it and snap off the nipple. Lots of applications over several days and be gentle and it will release. Good luck with it and let us know.

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Thanks to everyone for the advice. I have now found replacement valves at the dealership (nowhere near as expensive as I thought) and I'm going to see my Mechanic on Saturday so fingers crossed he can get them out in one piece......

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Quick update....I went to the dealership after work to pick up the new bleeder valves I ordered the previous day. Something went wrong because I was presented with a small bag containing 4 tiny rubber caps that fit over the valves. They were asking £9 +vat!!!!!! The actual valves are £7 each!!. I can't believe how expensive they are. As the car is going into the garage on Saturday I have no choice but to buy the valves from them. A quick look on ebay and I found 20 universal rubber caps for £3.95 inc p&p - crazy!!!!

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I just double checked the part numbers, to make sure - as you can see the part numbers are vastly different

 

Capture2.JPG

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Thanks but I can't make that out

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2 minutes ago, Kmac888 said:

Thanks but I can't make that out

Click to enlarge

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😣😣😣 thanks

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so........picked up the valves today at the dealership but they have a different part number.  The parts man insisted they were the right ones and even double checked the vin number to be sure

20191204_203117.jpg

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Some numbers are interchangeable as is the case with this part

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Update....took the car in on Saturday for a new exhaust and to change the brake fluid. Both the rear bleed screws were seized but with the help of a blow torch they finally came loose and I was able to replace them with new ones. The little rubber dust caps I bought cheaply from ebay fitted just right and didn't cost anywhere near the £10 asking price from the dealership (×4). Thanks to everyone for all your advice much appreciated 

 

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