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Toyota Avensis TR Valvematic 1.8 6 Speed


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Hi Anyone own a Valvematic Avensis, I'm thinking of buying a 2010 for around 3k, do they have a belt or a chain? If its a belt when do they need changing?

the one I'm interested in is at around 90,000 miles anything special i should look for when i check it over?

what about servicing on these, I usually do an Oil and filter swap every 5000-6000 miles any special oils recommended for these?

many thanks in advance 

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A 2010 1.8 Valvematc is a chain engine, there is no replacement interval for the chain and so long as the car correctly maintained you can expect it to last for the vehicles lifetime. Servicing is every 10,000 miles / 12 months and the uses a 0w20 grade engine Oil.

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  • FROSTYBALLS changed the title to Toyota Avensis TR Valvematic 1.8 6 Speed

I own T27 1.8 Valvematic 6 speed manual, tourer. A good car overall, but not without it's minor issues. Read my posts to get everything I have experienced. 

For Oil changes are easy for me. The engines preferred Oil grade is 0W-20, which I use at every change. Also replace the M12 fibre washer for the sump plug. You need Oil filter removal tool. I got mine from Ebay. For spark plug I use Denso are Denso SC20HR11, but these have been replaced by SC16HR11, so get those instead. You need thin walled 14mm spark plug socket, that are now easily available in places like Halfords.
 

 

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Check the door check strap area on the inner front doors for the sign of paint cracking. Some cars may have been fixed in various ways, other may have gone un noticed. I found out because it was mentioned on the forum and a friend. My solution was to use large penny washers. 
Some Valvematic engine 2011-12 have had the Valvematic controller issue. Very rare plus your car is older. I suspect a manufacturing issue, but no proof apart fro m the years. 
The parking brake (EPB) is generally reliable, and any faults can be cause by outside factors. Yes the unit can go wrong, but I have dealt with my own faults and the parking brake is currently working fine. 
As I said, read some of my posts. Don't be worried because the solutions can be simple.


 

 

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What spec are you getting? If you get TR Nav version, or T4, makes sure the navigation SD card is included! Without it, the multimedia unit won't work if the power has been removed and reconnected, like Battery disconnected or changed. The screen will ask for the SD card. Check the wallet containing service and owners manual, that comes with the car. Also like any car make sure you have the locking wheel nut. You should have space saver and tools. 


 

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Great many thanks for all the replies

is this the right filter tool "Laser Tools Oil Filter Wrench - 65mm x 14 Flutes - 5160 £12.51" from tms on ebay?

what are the torque settings for the filter and the sump plug?

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31 minutes ago, Konrad C said:

makes sure the navigation SD card is included!

I have an SD card from my previous Avensis TR 1.8 (2011 model). If anybody requires one, let me know.

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1 hour ago, HS78 said:

I have an SD card from my previous Avensis TR 1.8 (2011 model). If anybody requires one, let me know.

Unless the car was written off or you got an updated card, why didn't you leave the SD card with the original stereo? 

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2 hours ago, toolapcblack said:

Great many thanks for all the replies

is this the right filter tool "Laser Tools Oil Filter Wrench - 65mm x 14 Flutes - 5160 £12.51" from tms on ebay?

what are the torque settings for the filter and the sump plug?

That is correct tool from the Ebay supplier. 
Can't tell you torque settings but I pinch up to a certain tightness. Don't over do it, because it makes it hard to undo next time. 

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ok many thanks

so i am going to order my bits today, shall i go for 0w20 over 5w30? just worried that car has 90k miles on it and 0w20 is very thin...i usually try and always get Millers oils.

What is the capacity of the engine 4.25l im guessing?

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9 minutes ago, toolapcblack said:

ok many thanks

so i am going to order my bits today, shall i go for 0w20 over 5w30? just worried that car has 90k miles on it and 0w20 is very thin...i usually try and always get Millers oils.

What is the capacity of the engine 4.25l im guessing?

My car has passed 95,000 miles and I have used 0W-20 Oil every Oil change since I own the car. I did my first Oil change in summer 2016, because the car had been serviced the previous year. I couldn't say what Oil it had when I bought the car in 2015, but it was clean and seemed thin like 0W-20. My link in my earlier post, documented my Oil service. Capacity with filter change is 4.2L. I also had 5.0L oil cans so had some left over, over over time had enough to do a change with buying another can. But I always buy another can, so have enough for emergencies. Also, I hardly need to top up between Oil changes. I do checks every so often.

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Hi, 

torque settings are 25Nm for the Oil filter, that means very lightly once it’s stop that’s it, don’t try to turn more. Very often these are over tightened and cause problems to undo them, be prepared to use breaker bar with your tool. Very important also to install the rubber seal at correct location as shown in pictures on the box of oem Oil filter from Toyota.  Oil drain plug is 35Nm. Good to change the washer too. 

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ok thanks for all the advice....i did everything by the book so to speak but car has now developed a fault; first as i started the car to check for any Oil leaks i had a parking warning come up, this did not clear after running car up to temp turning it off and replacing cover then dropping it off the ramps.

Now the parking brake has stopped working altogether?

Was fine all day yesterday on the 3.5 hour journey with loads of junctions

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1 hour ago, toolapcblack said:

ok thanks for all the advice....i did everything by the book so to speak but car has now developed a fault; first as i started the car to check for any oil leaks i had a parking warning come up, this did not clear after running car up to temp turning it off and replacing cover then dropping it off the ramps.

Now the parking brake has stopped working altogether?

Was fine all day yesterday on the 3.5 hour journey with loads of junctions

I am gutted for you, but there is a few things you can check. First take a photo of the display showing the warning. Also get pro level diagnostics to get an idea of the fault and get codes. Can you activate it manually? There is an overheating warning that will show if used extensively. 

There are a few things that could cause the issue and one happened to me nearly 4 years ago. I had a failure after the clutch was replaced. The gear position sensor was note securely connected. Once it was found and reconnected with a missing bolt to secure it, all was fine. 
If the rear brake pads were recently changed, if not done properly will cause issues. I have had this problem myself, because the rear pistons were not properly aligned when wound back, this cause the inner brake pads or the pistons them selves to forced at an angle, causing them to jam or pads to wear at an angle like cheese. Basically the piston have cut outs that need to be horizontal, so the nipples on the rear of the inner brake pads sit in the cut outs. Another factor are seized callipers or sliders. Also a weak Battery can stop the EPB from working!

Hopefully it is something I mentioned. Did you buy the car privately or from a dealer? You could have some comeback depending where you bought the car from.

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It was fine all day yesterday and when i drove car onto ramps....my thoughts are it has to be something to do with the Oil change, anyone any ideas?

 

you mention activate it manually not sure how this is done?

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2 hours ago, toolapcblack said:

ok thanks for all the advice....i did everything by the book so to speak but car has now developed a fault; first as i started the car to check for any oil leaks i had a parking warning come up, this did not clear after running car up to temp turning it off and replacing cover then dropping it off the ramps.

Now the parking brake has stopped working altogether?

Was fine all day yesterday on the 3.5 hour journey with loads of junctions

Changing engine Oil should have nothing to do with the brake system, have you checked brake fluid level? Perhaps if low and car been on ramps that could have done it, don’t know anything else that can be related to the Oil service and brakes. , or just coincidence. May want to disconnect the negative terminal of the Battery as last resort and see if that helps. 

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just went out and tried it again everything is now working fine....fingers crossed its not one of these intermittent faults that gives one a right headache!

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