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12v battery maintenance, issues, etc.


FROSTYBALLS
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This is why I wonder if there's a bad batch of batteries out there.  We ordered our cars while Toyota still had their stock of chips so the Yaris came quite quick, gets laid up for weeks at a time but never have issues.

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4 hours ago, AisinW said:

@CPN, Hi Collin, do You have 12.3V in ACC mode (2x press power button without pressing the brake?

This was on first connection this morning after no use for 36 hours... (very cold night, about 4 degrees when I connected - door shut, everything else off)

Screenshot_20230120-131358.thumb.png.4eba222e1493757b7e12ea8e75873c0e.png

This was on one push into acc mode...

Screenshot_20230120-131422.thumb.png.a7c6ba043179e1ecaabb3947802a0e35.png

Pushing it again (without depressing the brake) is pointless because then, Hybrid Assistant thinks that the car is up and running even though it is not "Ready" and so it "loses" the Auxiliary Battery display...

4 hours ago, AisinW said:

  That is very good. How old is the battery?

The car started its build in late July 2020 and was finished in August so it is roughly 2.5 years old...

I have only ever had one time during that 2.5 years (during lockdown) when I neglected to start the car and had to use my pack to start it. Since then it has been fine. I also bought a CTek as "belt and braces" but really, I have not needed to use it in anger so to speak. I also use my Solar Charger (occasionally) since the car is always facing South when it's parked in the driveway.

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Colin, I would guess that is simply a very cold Battery and not a dying one.  My guess anyway.  Probably a good idea to use the tickle charge in very cold conditions. 

I wonder what the HV batteries make of having their ions frozen, after all, in use they are kept warm. 

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20 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

Colin, I would guess that is simply a very cold battery and not a dying one.  My guess anyway.  Probably a good idea to use the tickle charge in very cold conditions. 

I wonder what the HV batteries make of having their ions frozen, after all, in use they are kept warm. 

😂 Tickle charge.  I know, auto correct but it tickled me!

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54 minutes ago, CPN said:

This was on first connection this morning after no use for 36 hours... (very cold night, about 4 degrees when I connected - door shut, everything else off)

Screenshot_20230120-131358.thumb.png.4eba222e1493757b7e12ea8e75873c0e.png

This was on one push into acc mode...

Screenshot_20230120-131422.thumb.png.a7c6ba043179e1ecaabb3947802a0e35.png

Pushing it again (without depressing the brake) is pointless because then, Hybrid Assistant thinks that the car is up and running even though it is not "Ready" and so it "loses" the Auxiliary Battery display...

The car started its build in late July 2020 and was finished in August so it is roughly 2.5 years old...

I have only ever had one time during that 2.5 years (during lockdown) when I neglected to start the car and had to use my pack to start it. Since then it has been fine. I also bought a CTek as "belt and braces" but really, I have not needed to use it in anger so to speak. I also use my Solar Charger (occasionally) since the car is always facing South when it's parked in the driveway.

Your gizmo is nice Colin.  I like the colours and it’s simple enough for me to follow it 👍

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1 hour ago, Yugguy1970 said:

This is why I wonder if there's a bad batch of batteries out there.  We ordered our cars while Toyota still had their stock of chips so the Yaris came quite quick, gets laid up for weeks at a time but never have issues.

Some posts here claim that the global pandemic, parts shortages extended delivery times etc have no bearing at all on the issues suffered by some. I am amazed that anyone can reach such a conclusion but they must be better informed than me or at least think they are.

Your Yaris like our CHR seem to be immune to the problem and that CHR has only done 3900 miles in 10 months.

I think the reasons are unclear but multiple & complex.

Think I may have won the Battery lottery

 

 

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Maybe they just put in some other brand of car batteries during the manufacturing process, if the supplier has problems. It's cheaper for facilities to put here and there some first or second alternative component(with similar quality) just to fix the supplier chain problems, an alternative is to stop the factory fully or partly, which is tremendously expensive.

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3 hours ago, Hibird said:

My rose tinted glasses are in for a refurb but did it always start and if so how many hours a day on an overpriced charger were needed.

Yes, it always started, after the manager of the local garage cleaned the Stromberg carburettor from black paint from the fuel tank.  Charger? 

The main expense was front tyres, 5,500 miles from a good pair of cross ply 😁

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John and Robert, my Corolla was ordered in Jan 2020 and I took delivery 6 weeks later.  There were clearly no supply issues or extended parking at the docks as it was made in Derby.

I got the standard OEM Battery. I went flat during the Covid lockdown and twice after that before it was changed. 

The new, larger capacity might have been the only replacement available but I wasn't complaining. 

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20 hours ago, CPN said:

This was on first connection this morning after no use for 36 hours... (very cold night, about 4 degrees when I connected - door shut, everything else off)

Screenshot_20230120-131358.thumb.png.4eba222e1493757b7e12ea8e75873c0e.png

This was on one push into acc mode...

Screenshot_20230120-131422.thumb.png.a7c6ba043179e1ecaabb3947802a0e35.png

0.6V-0.7V loss in 36 hours (I estimate 12.5V-12.6V after turning off the car).

This would explain why my security alarm is set to 10.5V - warning - low Battery voltage.

Is 10.5V enough to start the hybrid? Probably yes.

I prefer not to risk it.

Before unlocking the car, I try to ensure that the car Battery voltage does not drop below 12.0V.

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1 hour ago, Dala said:

0.6V-0.7V loss in 36 hours (I estimate 12.5V-12.6V after turning off the car).

This would explain why my security alarm is set to 10.5V - warning - low battery voltage.

You could hit 10.5v in 3 days or less!

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22 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

You could hit 10.5v in 3 days or less!

not for me
I reacted to the reduced voltage of 0.6V at Colin
mine was a note for the 10.5v setting on my car alarm
for me, after the car has been standing for a week, the voltage is about 11.9V before unlocking

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I said I’d show my remote charging arrangement.  Just a Hive plug which these days shows the wattage draw.  The highest I’ve seen it is 45W and it eventually drops to 1W.   

9D3DE00B-552E-4889-9103-E8E0878B985C.jpeg

0BDE9099-FF1E-4071-9A3B-5CDC32D4AF1D.jpeg

8CF9AE50-B06A-48BD-AC7E-18E091316972.jpeg

A8EF8A9A-1553-42A1-A563-4D772F41CBB2.jpeg

7D01C1FA-90FF-41C0-9E4D-1CF3CEDAA08F.jpeg

C9ECBD4A-02E7-4E26-8FCC-0D4263227556.jpeg

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Our Yaris is 2 years old & has had this exact same issue 4 times. Only now has the dealer agreed to change the Battery. Unlike the OP, it’s used at least 3 times a week & according to the AA mechanic, he sees this problem on the Yaris more than any other vehicle. 
we’ve had enough & are giving the car back. Up until this model we loved the Yaris but we’ll never go with Toyota again. The dealer even tried to suggest they were changing the Battery as a gesture of goodwill until we pointed out that it was still under warranty. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/21/2022 at 6:55 PM, Joby1 said:

Hello

I’ve have a 2020 new model yaris hybrid. In the last 10 days I’ve had to get roadside assistance twice as the 12v battery was dead. First time the car had been stationary for 3 days, the second time 2 days. Dealership today checked if there was a electrical fault (no) but said it needed a full charge up, which they did. Issue is - apparently flat 12v battery is a hybrid issue (due to of engine running from hybrid battery mainly it doesn’t fully charge the 12v.) Apparently there have been cases of people going on holiday for 2 weeks, coming back to a dead battery. I’m concerned as over the next few months due to work I will be leaving my car a few times for a week or two at the airport.

Seems a serious design fault of Toyota when they have a strong reputation for reliability!  
Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone have a solution? Am thinking I may well be better to sell the car and start afresh. 
Thank you for any advice. 

Same thing keeps happening to my 2021 Yaris Dynamic. 6 jump starts in a year and a half. This is after 3 days of not being used. I know the 12V Battery is not used to crank the engine but is is used to power up other components. As soon as I press the start button I get a dash message saying 'Low Brake Pressure - take to Toyota dealer'. This is impossible if the car won't start. Also the brake pedal vibrates and there is a grating sound. So I jump start the car with a power pack and all ready to go. This is all too common  - not good Toyota - fix it!!!!!.

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4 hours ago, TruBlu said:

This is all too common  - not good Toyota - fix it!!!!!.

As we have no connection with Toyota, Toyota won't see this comment.

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3 hours ago, TruBlu said:

Same thing keeps happening to my 2021 Yaris Dynamic. 6 jump starts in a year and a half. This is after 3 days of not being used. I know the 12V battery is not used to crank the engine but is is used to power up other components. As soon as I press the start button I get a dash message saying 'Low Brake Pressure - take to Toyota dealer'. This is impossible if the car won't start. Also the brake pedal vibrates and there is a grating sound. So I jump start the car with a power pack and all ready to go. This is all too common  - not good Toyota - fix it!!!!!.

What did you do before the three days standing?

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I had the back seat out today and while it was out I took a photo of the Battery area.  Might help anyone who wants to add a CTEK connector although personally I wouldn’t bother and do it at the front.  

5976CDC5-196B-4618-9F59-3ABD638F071E.jpeg

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15 hours ago, anchorman said:

I had the back seat out today and while it was out I took a photo of the battery area.  Might help anyone who wants to add a CTEK connector although personally I wouldn’t bother and do it at the front.  

5976CDC5-196B-4618-9F59-3ABD638F071E.jpeg

How easy it it to remove the rear seat, do you have any details?

I have the CTEK comfort indicator ready to fit, but not sure how the seat comes out.

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Never had a problem with our lightly used Yaris hybrid. But I did have an Auris hybrid which I bought at one year old and the Battery failed immediately. The dealer replaced it under warranty.

Sounds like you need a new Battery.

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It seems that the 12v Battery is not fit for purpose. Twice in the space of a few weeks my car has failed to start although it sits in my garage and is not exposed to extreme cold. I have had to call on Toyota Assist to get me going.

I now discover that this is not just my problem but quite widespread. I understand that by putting the car in ready mode and leaving it for 60 minutes regularly will cure the problem, even if the petrol engine is not running. The 12 v Battery will be charged. I am able to do this in a locked garage, (with appropriate ventilation), but cannot turn off my lights since there is no off position on the new model, unlike my previous Yaris. This I guess will reduce the effectiveness of the charge.

Another way to keep the Battery charged is to use a trickle charger. I have had conflicting advise about this. Both AA men tell me that I can charge the battery using the position connection under the bonnet with the negative attached appropiately to another part of the engine, whereas my Toyota garage says that this is not the case and the battery can only be charged when directly connected. This is difficult due to the position of the battery under the rear seat. Does anyone have a definative answer to this question?

 

 

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There are many threads on the subject, some light reading here.............

 

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