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P1346 DTC


ShiftedReality1990
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Good afternoon everyone,

New member so please bear with me.

So I bought my car in November 2021 with a fresh 12 month MOT and the car has been ever so reliable and very solid. I've always performed services myself using quality recommended parts at the recommended interval. No problems. I have however been fighting an engine light that is being a persistent !Removed! So after I checked the code with my OBD reader, It shows P1346 stored and also pending. The VVT-I/Camshaft position sensor range or performance. Car runs absolutely fine. No issues or unwanted noises, car runs and drives fine. I did some investigating using these forums and online and people are saying it's a sensor issue, stretched chain or jumped tooth.

So, after I changed the oil as it was mega black (looks like previous owner didn't bother doing it) and a full service, the light disappeared and all was well. Skip to last November 2022, for the MOT, I took my car in and guess what? the same !Removed! code came back. The garage said it seemed like the chain has stretched. I told them to change it for the MOT so it would be dealt with. They did the work and the code vanished. Interestingly the emissions passed with flying colours.

 

Car has been for 7 months, but guess..... P1346 again!!!! I changed the oil a few days ago as it was due and the code won't go. Surely the chain hasn't stretched again. I drive smoothly and again, seems to be no problem with the car. I might go ahead and change the camshaft position sensor as forum members say that could be the cause. Just find it odd the code keeps coming back with no symptoms. 

 

Any help would be appreciated

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The problem with a worn timing chain, is it will wear the sprockets, so replacing the chain (tensioners and guides?) will mean the new one could still be a bit loose, however.

I had this code on a Nissan and finding the cam sensor was the same part number as the crank sensor, I swapped them over, the code moved from the cam sensor to the crank sensor. One new sensor later, all was resolved.

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11 hours ago, bathtub tom said:

The problem with a worn timing chain, is it will wear the sprockets, so replacing the chain (tensioners and guides?) will mean the new one could still be a bit loose, however.

I had this code on a Nissan and finding the cam sensor was the same part number as the crank sensor, I swapped them over, the code moved from the cam sensor to the crank sensor. One new sensor later, all was resolved.

Hi bathtub tom, 

I understand what you say. When the garage changed the chain, they changed the tensioner and guides as it was all in the kit. They showed me the old chain and honestly, it did not look worn or stretched at all to me but I've never seen a stretched chain before so I really can't say. 

 

Interesting about the Nissan. If the Yaris uses the same sensor for crank and cam, I could try that. 

 

If that fails or it doesn't use the same sensor, I don't mind paying out for a new cam sensor but I really don't fancy paying over £500 again for another chain especially if it's not the problem. A garage would be quick to take my money and just blame the chain so I'm trying to figure it out myself. I don't have the skills to strip the engine down myself. I do most work myself but when it comes to chains, clutches and so on, I unfortunately rely on garages who I really don't trust. 

 

Pete

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Do you have a multimeter ? check the resistance of the oil control valve, I would also remove and clean/replace the OCV filter - P1346 is OCV related (vvti solenoid)

1.0 or 1.3 ??

do you suffer with bad idle ? If you do WOT snap, does the revs fall on there face as the rpm comes back down ?

 

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2 hours ago, flash22 said:

Do you have a multimeter ? check the resistance of the oil control valve, I would also remove and clean/replace the OCV filter - P1346 is OCV related (vvti solenoid)

1.0 or 1.3 ??

do you suffer with bad idle ? If you do WOT snap, does the revs fall on there face as the rpm comes back down ?

 

Hi Flash22, thanks for the reply. 

 

I do have a multimeter yes. I will check the resistance of the OCV and clean it and the filter and/or replace both I haven't tried that yet. Do you happen to know the ideal resistance should be? If it's just a matter of a new OCV then happy days.

It's a 1.3L I should have put that in my 1st post. Sorry. 

Idle is absolutely fine both cold and warmed up. The car never stumbles or anything and if I rev high and let go, the RPM drops as normal and stays stable. I have noticed that occasionally at high speed on the motorway the engine sort of... hesitates? very slightly for a moment then it accelerates as normal if I put my foot down. Seems to do it around 60mph. It never did that before the garage changed the chain but only afterwards. It doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. I don't get any misfiring codes though. I did a full service including spark plugs and all filters including cabin filter when I got the car as I didn't know when it was last done. I like to keep a document of the service history just for my own records. 

 

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Hi again, 

So I did a resistance test. 

The OCV measured 0.78 ohms @20degrees

 

I cleaned the OCV, removed and cleaned the filter. All looks good. No junk or sludge or anything. 

 

Pete

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That OCV is near dead (short), it should be 6.9 to 7.9 ohms @ 20ºc

Part number 15330-23010

you should notice a power gain after replacing it for sure, don't buy the cheapest OCV you can find either, there is a lot of Chinese junk on the market

 

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Thank you for the brilliant information, Flash22. 

My multimeter has a manual adjustment setting and I set it to 200ohms, that's the reading I got. 

 

I set it to 2000ohms and got a reading of 010 (if that all makes sense) 

 

So the sensor is definitely on it's way out? If so, I'll go about getting a quality part replacement. 

 

Once again, thank you so much for your help.

 

Pete

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ohm out you leads half that reading could be just the leads, it's more or less a dead OCV <1 ohm is a short

OEM is around £140, cheap Chinese junk from about £30

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Hi, again

So update with the saga. I have purchased a new quality OCV, not a cheap Chinese crap one. I'm waiting for it to be delivered. Should be around Friday or Saturday so I'll update once I have a new one and installed it 

 

Pete

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Hi all, another update.

So the OCV arrived. Fitted it in a few minutes and triple checked everything. Cleared the DTC from the car and started her up. Light has gone off. Took her for a 3 mile blast and can definitely feel more power.

 

I'll update again after my drive later and if that light stays off then happy days 😄

 

Pete

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Hi all, another update.... 

So I took my car out for another drive, got about a mile and.....it's ******* back! P1346 stored and pending again!!!

 

Is it possible that it could be the camshaft sensor? The car still feels alot better and the new power is lovely. Flash22, when I disconnect the camshaft sensor, should the car still run or should it stall? I disconnect the sensor and the car still runs fine. It won't start if I disconnect the sensor while the engine is off but once the engine is running, I disconnect the sensor and nothing changes. Starting to wonder if its that sensor? I appreciate all the help so far

 

Pete

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Was the VVT pulley changed ? Is the oil level ok ?

Do you have the 2 or 3 pin cam sensor ?

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Hi Flash22, 

When the garage changed the timing chain last year, they did the chain, tensioner, guides, this little gear (lower gear?) and oil seal. It all was a part of a kit. They also changed the oil and filter after the work was done. I can't say if/when the VVT pulley has been changed. No mention of it from the previous owner but he apparently looked after the car and spent money on it when it needed. 

The oil is full as I regularly check the fluids and do routine checks. No leaks anywhere. I love my car and look after it

The cam sensor has 2 pins. It's a Denso sensor so not a cheap crap one but I am unsure how old it is

 

Thank you for the continued help, 

 

Pete

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Hi again, update to the saga, 

So I checked everything that I could check, oil level, wiring ect and all looks good. I reset the dtc codes and went for a 7 mile drive down the M1 motorway while it is quite. The car absolutely flies like a little rocket! Especially at high RPM as Flash22 said. Car feels so smooth and no hesitation at 60mph like she did before. Absolutely a joy to drive again. I really can feel the power output and the engine sounds so good! The engine light has not yet returned after 7 miles so I'm really, really hoping it was a glitch in the ECU or something. I'll be taking her out in the morning so I'll see what happens then. 

 

I'll update the outcome. 

 

Pete

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More than likely everything settling in, the valve is new, so it will take a bit to bed in, a good run, up in the revs will get the oil flowing through the OCV 👍

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Another update a bit later than planned...

So after a few more miles the light has yet to return so I really hope this is the end of the saga. 😁😁😁 I'll update if it returns.

 Flash22 and the rest of the forum members, I truly appreciate the help and support you have provided. I really, really appreciate it. Wouldn't have figured it out without this forum so I appreciate it.

All the best,

Pete

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Hi all, further updates to this saga, 

So I was driving to work not long ago and after a mile, guess what? P1346!! The gremlin is back. Car drives absolutely fine still. Can definitely feel more power at high speed but the sodding light is back. I'm starting to wonder if it's a timing issue and the garage last year didn't fit it properly. Or the camshaft sensor. 

Celebrated too early 😞 any thoughts? 

Pete

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i would inspect the OCV connector, make sure the terminals aren't spread apart too far (pin fitment/pin tension)

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1 hour ago, flash22 said:

i would inspect the OCV connector, make sure the terminals aren't spread apart too far (pin fitment/pin tension)

Hi Flash22, I'll take a few pictures on my break to show. I haven't noticed any issue with the wiring or connectors but I'll inspect them regardless. Any help or advice is deeply appreciated. Really want to get rid of this code! 

 

Pete

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Top picture is the OCV plug socket

The middle picture is the OCV plugged in as normal 

Lower picture is the wiring and the plug from the loom

 

Sorry if the pictures aren't that great

 

Pete

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