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Yaris mk1 reliability


2003YarisT3
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Hi all ,

Just wanted to start this topic to see what everyone’s experience is with reliability with the MK1 Yaris. I’ve had mine for just over a year and all I’ve changed is the washer fluid cap as it crumbled away. It just passed it mot with no advisories which shocked me for a car that’s 20 years old! I’m overall very fond of the little Yaris as it always surprises me with every situation it has to deal with. 
 

What’s everyone else’s experiences with the mk1? 

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Superb reliability and durability, I think the difference is that they were built right in the first place.

There are a lot of folk who have had a lot of expensive trouble with much newer cars of all makes.

The only thing that seems to see them off is underside rust, especially at the rear.

Mine too is 20 years old, and drives like new.

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Bought mine for a whopping £400 about 5 years ago. Apart from consumables it's been the most reliable anything I've ever owned. 50mpg on a long run, seats 4 comfortably, will cruise at 85 all day long and the heater is excellent. Even handles like a go kart. Like yours mine passed her MOT a couple of months ago with no advisories. If someone offered me a brand new car for my one I'd say no thanks.

Alex

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The Mk1 Yaris as well as the Mk9 Corolla and Avensis are probably some of the most reliable and well made cars they ever made.

The Yaris Mk1's main weakness is rust, and many a Mk1 has perished from the subframes and underside rusting out, but the mechanicals are by and large bullet-proof, even the diesel ones!

None of the later models have really matched it for build quality IMHO.

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Thanks for all the replies !

Glad to see everyone’s positive experience with the mk1. 

 

Donkeychomp I agree with the handling , you can throw it into corners and you feel confident and in control , especially in country lanes.  

 

Regarding the robustness I hit a rather larger pot hole the other day and was expecting some damage however everything was straight and tight ( the pot hole was more like a ditch with how sharp and deep it was) 

 

Tbh mine is very low mileage ( brought at 30,000 now at 36,000) and was garage all its life untill 2020 so rust is minimal apart from some on the rear wheel arches which I treated. 

 

The mechanic at the garage said it was immaculate condition which gave me confidence to keep it as long as I can! 

 

Cannot fault the car one bit and it’s always fun to drive and the engine revvs high which make progress to speed feel exciting ; the 1ltr can be slow.  

 

 

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The side light glass fell off mine, the other came off too with little effort. I put some led ones which can fit in the opposite way with a little gap. But staying on. £10 for 2, the originals are £15 for 1.

ABS problem? not really more of the ABS sensors need cleaning but they are impossible to remove, though I have tried, removed fuse, problem gone. Never really used ABS anyway, but for learner drivers it is a must. No experienced driver will slam there brakes.

One wheel bearing.

Leak in cylinders, was bound to happen and rear wheels probably needed new brake pads. Probably the first time they were changed since 2005.

Not really that bad, though sailed through last year's MOT.

I prefer it to the Avensis 2007 for motorway driving. Did 86 without realising a couple of days ago, so easy to do. Though night time on the motorway feels like I am playing a seventies atari game. I guess it will be the same even with an expensive car?

Not bad £900 cost of car with no service history and a rusty oil filter driven for 4 years so far so good.

 

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This vehicle meets the ULEZ emissions standards
You do not need to pay a daily ULEZ charge to drive in the zone, and are helping to improve air quality across London.

However, if you see the Congestion Charge displayed below, you will need to pay that daily charge to drive in central London.

Congestion Charge
£15.00 to £17.50 a day

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No, you are helping to line the coffers of TFL,

Alex

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The rear suspension struts needed replacing on mine, which would have cost almost as much as the car was worth so I reluctantly part exchanged it.

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11 minutes ago, Richard Davies said:

The rear suspension struts needed replacing on mine, which would have cost almost as much as the car was worth so I reluctantly part exchanged it.

If you just talking about the shock absorbers that a easy fix.

Just lift up rear chassy via jack points dont rely just on jacks to hold rear of car up and undo shocks use a jack to control the axel position to ade removing refitting new shocks.

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Rear struts may be a DIY job especially for a Yaris, you may not need spring compressors - though Avensis may be difficult as I remember the garage really struggled to take a spring off last year? Though not sure, but if the nuts can be loosened at the bottom of the suspension struts without them braking i mean breaking. But this should not be a problem as these nuts are away from heat....

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It was mostly the cost of the struts rather than how easy to change them!

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  • 5 months later...

are any of you guys still running with origional radiator hoses?

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