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Connecting a CTEK charger - a different way


Dick_Dastardly
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It took me one door opening attempt to get annoyed at the "under the rear" door method.

Couldn't open the driver's door without first disconnecting the charging cable.  And the 3+ metres of cable draped the length of the car were playing absolute havoc with my OCD as it looks so unprofessional and it's a load of cable to have to tidy away every time I want to go out 

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The other way I've seen suggested is to use crocodile clips to attach to the fuse box and pass the cable under the bonnet.

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Looks a lot neater but it's then added the hassle of having to open/close the bonnet and attach/detach the fuse box cover and crocodile clips every time I want to go out. 😴

Plus there's a 100% chance that I'll regularly forget it's there and just drive off with it attached and sparks a plenty 😲

I thought that there has to be a better way and it turns out there is 🏆

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This is attached directly to the Battery in the rear with a fused connection and all hidden from view. Now I just have to unclip it and it hides away neatly behind the grille with a weather proof cover protecting the cable end

Spot the cable 🔍

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How did you run the cable from the Battery to the front of the car without it being outside at any point?

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17 minutes ago, CPN said:

How did you run the cable from the battery to the front of the car without it being outside at any point?

I ran it through the firewall. I wouldn't say it was difficult to do but it took a while to figure out the best options and needs a special (cheap) tool

I took loads of pics so I will add a "how to" to this thread. It won't be for everyone but if you enjoy working on vehicles then it's do-able.

Hardest bit was lying on my back in the driver's door well trying to route the wires. Whilst trying to extracate myself from this position I suddenly remembered that I'm not 21 anymore 👴

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So this is how to do it. If you have basic skills in working with cars, and are confident connecting cables, then it's actually quite easy.

Parts you need:

1) Ctek CTE-56261 Ctek Direct Connector Adaptor (8mm) https://amzn.eu/d/3dozRyV

2) CTEK 40-134 Start/ Stop CT5 Connect Extension, 2.5 m https://amzn.eu/d/94jCySL

3) Performance Tool W2935 Stainless Steel Wire Insertion Tool - Piercing for 1/4-Inch Wiring Hole https://amzn.eu/d/9JYg29v

4) Wire connectors of your own choice. I used these but there are many other options  

https://amzn.eu/d/1j9cSNb

5) Insulation tape

6) Cable ties

7) Inline fuse

https://amzn.eu/d/9oZfyny

8 ) Twin core automotive cable//amzn.eu/d/atTduLR

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Looking forward to the photos...

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Remove the weather protection bung from the Battery connector cables

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Next cut the positive wire of the Battery connector cable about halfway and attach an inline fuse. As it's a 5 amp system then insert a 7.5 amp fuse if you have one. 10amp will probably be fine if that's the lowest you have

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Attach to Battery terminals and leave the connector hanging out to the left 

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Take the 2.5m cable and cut the male connector off around 10-12 inches from the end.

Double/triple check you are cutting the correct end off. You're cutting off the connector that needs to fit into the female socket now connected to the Battery

Do NOT cut the connector whilst it is attached to the Battery socket or you will enjoy lots of fireworks 🙂

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This is the only tricky bit. You need to feed the loose automotive cable through the firewall grommet.

The grommet is on the driver's side and a little difficult to access but location is shown here 

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This is a close up. You are aiming to push the wires through the bulge on the left, marked with an arrow. It's purpose designed for adding extra wires and it's well away from the main loom so you are perfectly safe in punching through here

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The rubber is unbelievably tough and it's useful to poke a pilot hole through with something small and pointy, e.g. small screwdriver ,before going in with the cable threading tool or you may struggle.

Poke the cable threading tool through the grommet. It needs a really really hard push to get through

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Next go into the driver's door well and remove the power panel in order to gain some access.

There's just one screw on each side and 2 clips in the middle which are easily removed by pushing forward with a small screwdriver 

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Remove the wires from the panel.

The two bulbs just need a press with a screwdriver then the connector will pull out

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The central connector is removed by just squeezing the 2 sides of the clip together

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The OBD port is easily removed by just using a screwdriver to squeeze the sides together

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Looking up just above the pedals you will see where the cable tool has poked through the grommet.

You will notice that it is nowhere near the main loom

 

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Back under the bonnet you need to feed around 2 metres of the automotive cable through the tool

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Then go back into the footwell and you will see all the cable on the floor

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Route the cable neatly down towards the lower right hand side making sure to avoid the steering column and both pedals. If you follow existing wiring looms then the shouldn't go wrong.

Cable tie the new cable to the existing looms

Unscrew the clip holding the lower right hand panel. It's removable by hand 

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Feed the cable behind the footwell panel and continue to feed it underneath the sill panels.

You just need to put your fingers underneath and they lift up easily. The only tricky bit is the panel between the front and rear doors 

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Eventually you'll get to the Battery

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Take the male connector that you previously cut off the extension cable and attach it to the wires.

Double/triple check that you are connecting the correct cable ends together. My automotive cable had one black/red wire and one black wire, so slightly different to the CTEK cables.

I just made sure that the black/red cable on the cable I just fed though was connected to the black/red wire on the male CTEK connector

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Do NOT join the connectors together yet, you don't want the whole cable becoming live whilst you're still working on it

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Back in the engine bay you need to slide the weatherproof connector onto the 2.5m extension cable and and slide it all the way to the female connector on the other end

 

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To the right of the driver's headlight loosen the small panel by pressing the clips with a screwdriver 

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Feed the connector end of the extension cable though the gap and secure to the horn wire loosely with a cable tie

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Finally removed the cable insertion tool from the firewall grommet, sliding it all the way off the cable you fed through the firewall.

Route the the cable now hanging out of the firewall, and the extension cable you just cable tied behind the grill, around the engine bay and join together.

Again double/triple check that the black/red wire of the new firewall cabkenis connected to the black/red wire of the CTEK cable.

Tidy with tape, cable ties and/or a corrugated sleeve

That's it you're all set.

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One advantage of having the removable connector at the front is that if you do accidentally drive off with it attached then the connector just separates.

I've being doing this on my Fords for many years and it's so easy and foolproof.

Although I've never had to go through a firewall before 🫤

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With hindsight it would have been better to make the connection to the Battery the last step in the process.

I make these mistakes so you don't have to 🙂

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Good work *****.  I like a good new car disassemble and photos.  

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Just now, anchorman said:

Good work *****.  I like a good new car disassemble and photos.  

For crying out loud, the luvvie snowflake filter won’t let me address you by the screen name now.  It’s like Sunday school.  

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Why does your Battery loose charge.?

Mine can be charged from the Engine Bay if needed .

Tel

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