Oil change

[Paul Landymore]

I am planning on changing the oil and filter on my Yaris Cross Hybrid. Can anyone tell me what the capacity is and what the torque setting for the sump nut is. Many thanks 

[Bper]

Hi Paul, I am sure other members will give you the information but look in you owners manual it this is the most reliable source for information specific to your car's model and year. The owner's manual should have a section on maintenance that details the oil capacity and torque specifications.Hope this helps.

[Parts-King]

Oil is 0W-8, quantity 3.3 L, not sure on torque sorry

 

[APS]

The user manual states 3.2 litre without filter and 3.5 litre with filter. There is no mention of sump plug torque. Normally it's about 25-35 Nm - not a lot. Not an opportunity to show off the gorilla muscles.

[FROSTYBALLS]

Topic moved to the Yaris forum.

[wildtapholer]

Why would you change the oil yourself and invalidate the warranty, service interval 10,000 or one year which ever comes first.

[anchorman]

42 minutes ago, wildtapholer said:

Why would you change the oil yourself and invalidate the warranty, service interval 10,000 or one year which ever comes first.

It doesn’t invalidate the warranty.  You can change it every week if you want to.  You must have a dealer or VAT registered garage change it at the service period.  

[anchorman]

On 4/18/2024 at 1:22 PM, Paul Landymore said:

I am planning on changing the oil and filter on my Yaris Cross Hybrid. Can anyone tell me what the capacity is and what the torque setting for the sump nut is. Many thanks 

 

[Jimota]

Some people, not just Toyota owners, like to do oil changes in between service intervals.  I don’t know if this improves engine life but it’s not something I would do.

[anchorman]

7 hours ago, Jimota said:

Some people, not just Toyota owners, like to do oil changes in between service intervals.  I don’t know if this improves engine life but it’s not something I would do.

It’s interesting you should say that because I watched something about oil changes on the car care nut channel where the guy reckoned you would see metal particles in the filter at 1000 miles (he’s not always correct and I don’t think it’s as bad as he makes out but low mileage is definitely as bad as high).  I changed the oil in my Lexus at 1800 miles as an experiment and it isn’t cheap using genuine parts - something I do recommend if you’re doing interim oil changes under warranty.  I used a clean transparent tray and I couldn’t see even the tiniest particles glistening.  Keep in mind, I go back to the days where a 500 mile bed in oil change was a normal and necessary thing.   Not a thing, it felt like I’d wasted £70.  However, I recently watched another video where a guy did something more scientific and sent the oil for analysis which revealed that a first oil change was quite heavily contaminated compared to a second.  That was on a Corolla with the same 2.0 litre engine as mine.  So!  If I now ever settle down into a car long term, I will do an interim oil change and in any case, I will not leave oil in for 10,000 miles.  I’ll be using my old standard 6000.   Old dogs and new tricks etc!

 

 

[Eddiefh]

If one car manufacturer brought it back at a 1000 or so miles rest would follow . 
the way I see and read how they try and sell unnecessary items on a service or find faults but then don’t do the basics that people have paid for . 

[anchorman]

1 hour ago, Eddiefh said:

If one car manufacturer brought it back at a 1000 or so miles rest would follow . 
the way I see and read how they try and sell unnecessary items on a service or find faults but then don’t do the basics that people have paid for . 

Well that’s where the second video on the Corolla is incomplete because you’d have to compare the oils again at the end of the second year.   It might be that by that time all the flushing is done and there’s very little difference.  Cars operating in colder climates will generate more condensation which can emulsify the oil to some extent.  The other consideration is that cars with direct injection can suffer with carbon fouling and oil dilution which brings me back to the subject that seems to land me in trouble and that is using low grade fuel (supermarket).   I must admit, I took it that the M15 engine in the Yaris/Cross had D4S direct and indirect injection (my M20 engine does) which keeps the inlet valves free of carbon.  I’ll investigate further when I get chance but if that is true and any of you keep your cars for a long time I would definitely go for interim oil changes and at least branded fuel but better still high grade.  Before anybody bites and says they’ve been using supermarket fuel for 40 years blah blah, no you haven’t, not in a Euro 6 engine and frankly I don’t care what you put in but it may well bite you in the backside if you ignore the advice of a very experienced time served mechanic (me) and many of my peers.  

[Parts-King]

2 hours ago, Eddiefh said:

If one car manufacturer brought it back at a 1000 or so miles rest would follow . 
the way I see and read how they try and sell unnecessary items on a service or find faults but then don’t do the basics that people have paid for . 

They won't, manufacturers under are pressure to reduce their carbon footprint, they use far less oil in an engine these days and a lot of manufacturers have extended service intervals, not less. Modern oils are much better than the old days of 20w-50 that needed changing every 5-6000 miles. Imagine how many millions of litres of old used oil would need recycling if every new car needed a 1000 mile oil change 

[Slartybartfast]

47 minutes ago, Parts-King said:

20w-50 that needed changing every 5-6000 miles

Or even less way back in the Bronze Age, where 3000 miles was recommended. Possibly a lower interval than that early to mid 20th Century and before the advent of multigrades.

This could be totally wrong, so please don't spend all day searching to disprove it, but I did read that 20W 50 was originally made for the E Type Jaguar at the time.

[APS]

5 hours ago, anchorman said:

It’s interesting you should say that because I watched something about oil changes on the car care nut channel where the guy reckoned you would see metal particles in the filter at 1000 miles (he’s not always correct and I don’t think it’s as bad as he makes out but low mileage is definitely as bad as high).

Take what he says with a pinch of salt. This is not the first time he appears to be talking out his behind. Wear particles in an engine are under normal circumstances microscopic. If you can see metal particles in the filter, then you have big (end) problems going on. Gearbox oils is a different matter, there you will have loads of tiny metal pieces. Used gear oil will shimmer when stirred.

2 hours ago, Parts-King said:

They won't, manufacturers under are pressure to reduce their carbon footprint, they use far less oil in an engine these days and a lot of manufacturers have extended service intervals, not less

This ^^

For the above reason, the trend is towards longer service intervals. Several manufacturers now run a 20k mile / 2 year oil service schedule. 

Personally, I only change more frequently in the cars that go on track. Everything else, follows the service schedule. But I do keep a very close eye on the level, the colour of the oil, and any visible staining inside engines. 

 

Oil-threads are such slippery slopes!

[MikeSh]

This extra oil changes idea seems a bit paranoid.

When I started with cars in the 70s it was quite common to replace an engine (and gearboxes, etc, in older cars), usually with a recon one (short block or long block). I did one myself on a MK2 Zephyr.

Is that really the case these days? Do older cars, especially owned from new and treated sensibly, often need a worn engine replacing or rebuilding. If not then it seems doubtful the extra cost and hassle of basically doubling the oil use will be worthwhile.

[MikeSh]

Today's Wizard of Id seems appropriate: 

https://www.gocomics.com/wizardofid/2024/04/23

[TonyHSD]

Absolutely not necessary to do any oil changes in between 10k miles or 12 months scheduled intervals. It’s just waste of oil, time and money and does help nothing to extend life of the engine or reduce oil consumption at later date. 
Oil consumption is something that any car with ice will have at some point of its life even if you change the oil every day. 
Those guys from YouTube does great videos but this doesn’t mean they are always right., even if they show laboratory testing results. 
Stick with your intervals as max time / mileage, can do a bit earlier but don’t do it late and never skip a service and use exact type viscosity engine oil as recommended this is all you need to do as maintenance and you will enjoy long and trouble free drive. 
Here is where the things starts to go wrong on cars that hasn’t been used a lot and owners skip service intervals on regular basis. For example, ooo I don’t drive much, the oil still looks good, I will change it later date, then a year after , ooo I only done 4000 miles for two years , let’s keep going and so on. , or use wrong type viscosity. 
 

[Jimota]

I remember an old neighbour who religiously used, I think it was STP engine flush, to clean the inner working parts of the engine prior to filling up with new oil.  I used it on one occasion but in the absence of any scientific evidence, who knows if it really works.

[APS]

You put it in the engine with the old oil, run it for 10-15 minutes before draining it. Toyota used to include engine flush in every service. I don't think they do anymore. There are (and has been for many years now) enough detergents in the oil to do that work on its own.

[Parts-King]

56 minutes ago, Jimota said:

I remember an old neighbour who religiously used, I think it was STP engine flush, to clean the inner working parts of the engine prior to filling up with new oil.  I used it on one occasion but in the absence of any scientific evidence, who knows if it really works.

That was a "thing" when oil was pants, had very little detergent and would turn to mayonnaise as soon as you looked at it. The same products are still made today, but with oils being far superior they are not often used. I would be more inclined to use a fuel treatment these days, modern ultra high pressure fuel systems do suffer from carbon contamination, it won't do any harm. Toyota actually sell both, engine flush and fuel treatment 

[Jimota]

Ah, I knew you could still get the petrol treatments but wasn’t sure about in vogue engine flushes.

[Parts-King]

14 minutes ago, Jimota said:

Ah, I knew you could still get the petrol treatments but wasn’t sure about in vogue engine flushes.

Yeah we still sell a few oil flushers, mainly to "old school" DIY' ers, we sell a ton of fuel treatments, they are more relevant than ever  

[APS]

11 minutes ago, Parts-King said:

we sell a ton of fuel treatments, they are more relevant than ever

To treat symptoms or as a prophylactic measure?

[TonyHSD]

I use this exact engine flush made by stp every second  oil change and it is a very good one indeed plus it’s very cheap.
Todays oil and fuel additives aren’t the same as they were decades ago , with technology changes, lubricants and fuels and fluids evolved the additives also has changed and they fulfil todays modern engines applications. Oil stabilisers doesn’t affect oil viscosity anymore. Fuel additives does actually work.
My last experience from few days ago here: 

Filled up Tesco momentum 99 E5 on 08/04 and then with almost full tank I left the car unused  for 10 days. Restarted on 18/04 , the car started fine , no Battery problems , however there were long and nasty misfires and engine was knocking badly for over a minute. Then after it was the same situation for the rest of the next few cold starts, I filled up e10 from bp when half tank and it has helped a bit but still these misfires. Then when half tank again I have put 40ml of wynns e10 fuel stabiliser into the tank and filled up with e5 97 premium from bp, no more knocking on cold starts now for two days and the car drives so much better, lighter feel and more agile. 
 Wynn's 38911 Specialist E10 Petrol Fuel Protector Makes E10 Safe For All Petrol Engines https://amzn.eu/d/8xusWYS