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Hi new member with Oil Filter Question


Mickyh7
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As above, I'm getting contradictory information whilst trying to buy an oil filter.

I have a 1.33 vvi Yarris 2014.

Some oil filters have rubber ends, but some seem to be paper only, with no formed ends?

I've bought a 'Removal Tool' so I know it's an internal cartridge type filter.

Can anyone shed any light please?

Thanks.

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These differences are because of the different rands but if within the specs they all fits the cartridge cap correctly. 
When you install the paper cartridge should click in place and then if you push further should be a spring loading feel. That’s all. 
Very important to not over tighten , max torque is 25Nm, or just as it’s stop rotating using the tool. Good quality filters aftermarket are mann. 👍 

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Thanks for that.

It's quite confusing!

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I think the Mk3 can be a bit confusing because it initially inherited the horrible paper-element cartridge filter from the Mk2, but later changed back to the (IMHO better) spin-on can type in later engine revisions, and also the different engines used different styles of filter anyway (IIRC the 1.33/1NR engine used the element cartridge while the 1.0/1KR used a spin-on type)

 

Note that I might have made all this up so don't take as gospel! :laugh: 

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Yes it definitely has the Alloy 2 part Body screwed into the sump.

So I'm guessing the paper filter is the one to go for. Certainly not the 'Normal' screw on type!

Thanks.

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I dont think mine (December 2014) has the old fashioned spin on type filter the older Yaris's would have used. I'm not even bothering with faffing round with trying to change the filter on the next oil change as its not as easy to do on the 1.33 engine. I'm taking mine up to Kwik Fit in a fortnight to have them do a service on it and change the oil. I would have prefered it if it had the old fashioned type filter and would have probably done it myself then, but I dont have the special tool needed to remove the paper pleated filter plastic housing on this car, so someone else can do it. They have to make everything more complicated with each new model they bring out.

Best of luck changing yours - if you have the tools to get that filter housing off thats great.

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You may need a special oil filter socket 64.5mm 14F-6s Draper part number 29130

I hope your replacment comes with a oil dranage relief cone if not just use a mastic tube nozzel.

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46 minutes ago, Stevie J said:

I dont think mine (December 2014) has the old fashioned spin on type filter the older Yaris's would have used. I'm not even bothering with faffing round with trying to change the filter on the next oil change as its not as easy to do on the 1.33 engine. I'm taking mine up to Kwik Fit in a fortnight to have them do a service on it and change the oil. I would have prefered it if it had the old fashioned type filter and would have probably done it myself then, but I dont have the special tool needed to remove the paper pleated filter plastic housing on this car, so someone else can do it. They have to make everything more complicated with each new model they bring out.

Best of luck changing yours - if you have the tools to get that filter housing off thats great.

How much are they charging for the service . 

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I would, and do, buy a Toyota filter element. 04152 - YZZA7 for the 1.33l 1NR FE. The box contains a plastic drain tube and both "o" rings.

I am glad that it's an aluminium cap rather than plastic. The correct tool should have reliefs to engage with the "ears" on the cap.

 

filter element.jpg

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20 hours ago, Mickyh7 said:

So I'm guessing the paper filter is the one to go for. Certainly not the 'Normal' screw on type!

It's definitely the paper filter you need for the 1.33 1NR-FE. It's worth attempting the oil change yourself if you've already bought the removal tool, and it's not a difficult task. Make sure you have a new sump plug gasket before starting the oil change.

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Those filter housings can be wound on very tight, you need a good quality tool for the job! It should look like this

image.thumb.png.759d8ab3b63b2a97edaaabb35457bf4e.png

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4 hours ago, 1.33 said:

It's definitely the paper filter you need for the 1.33 1NR-FE. It's worth attempting the oil change yourself if you've already bought the removal tool, and it's not a difficult task. Make sure you have a new sump plug gasket before starting the oil change.

A lot of Toyota dealers do a service kit which will include the oil, filter and sump plug gasket.

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18 hours ago, Parts-King said:

Those filter housings can be wound on very tight, you need a good quality tool for the job!

Yes, during the last service that was carried out at a main dealer the idiot(apprentice?) who changed the element obviously didn't know what 25Nm of torque is. At the next service it required a 600mm bar to remove the cover. The first socket they used split when used on the hexagon of the tool. Using the square would probably have split the tool. 

I would have really liked to speak to the "tool" at the dealer's! There were other issues, at that dealer's too, which included not carrying out jobs that were included in the servicing schedule.

 

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1 hour ago, Slartybartfast said:

I would have really liked to speak to the "tool" at the dealer's! 

You won't be the first or last to suffer that unfortunately

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Yeah there have been several anecdotes on here about that very thing - The word gorilla was used in one as I recall :laugh: 

It's one reason I didn't like the paper element filter - The plastic housing for the filter cartridge on my Mk2, despite being quite beefy, was still fairly mangled, presumably from repeated slight over-tightening by services under the previous owner, and if the car hadn't had so many other problems I would have probably had to replace it eventually!

With the spin-ons you don't have to care so much :laugh: 

I still don't get why it's such a common problem - I was always told the filter should be hand-tightened and that was general knowledge for mechanics, so who are these people that are presumably air-gunning them on?? :eek: :laugh: 

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