Alarm / Immobiliser

[ultranalog]

Hi there.

I've discovered this forum shortly after buying my 1995 Carina E 1.8 GLI (7A-FE). Many of the topics describe issues I've encountered such as the injectors and the rattling fanbelt. I'm hugely thankful for all the info here.

Now yesterday I found out that the aftermarket radio was budget in fairly clumsily- spades were just wedged into the connector ready to fall out any time. Also, the speaker wiring was faulty and the magnet had come loose of the RH front speaker

Anyway, with my Haynes manual in hand I decided to fix it but couldn't be bothered disconnecting the negative Battery terminal. Sure enough I made a wrong connection whilst tinkering with the radio. Immediately the alarm went of as I didn't have the black key in the 'on' position (oooh, the knowledge of hindsight). I managed to kill the sound by turning the small round key on the alarm unit to the horizontal position but the car remained immobilised.

Frustrated with myself, I read up on all of the alarm/immobiliser topics and found the 'disconnect Battery - black key in 'on' position - reconnect battery' method and decided to wait for daylight before trying it.

Today I opened the car and just for the fun of it tried starting. The starter motor came on without a problem! But the engine did not start. I then checked all the fuses and oh wonder, F33 was blown. That did not surprise me, since that is the radio fuse. Why the engine doesn't start is a mystery. Anyhow I replaced F33 and after 10 reconnecting-the-battery attempts the engine started. Yaaay!

Drove around for about an hour in case the fuse blown and the starting attempts had drained the Battery. After coming back I switched off the engine and tried to lock the car with the fob - alarm went off (silent though, key still in horzontal position) and immobilised again. Turning the key to 'on' twice (and more) doesn't help.

I have tried resyncing my fob but that just spikes the alarm again. If I try and turn on anything (lights, door locks) the alarm spikes. If I move around in the car, the alarm spikes (motion sensor I'm sure). The lights go off after a timeout but of course the car won't start.

I'm now getting desperate - I had planned taking the car in for service tomorrow which is kinda hard with the immobiliser spiked. I just want it to open remotely and not be immobilized, I could care less about the alarm. Should I return the alarm to the vertical setting? Did I miss anything else?

I really hope you can help me out. I bought a Toyota to be trouble free...

[dwayne62]

Hi there.

I've discovered this forum shortly after buying my 1995 Carina E 1.8 GLI (7A-FE). Many of the topics describe issues I've encountered such as the injectors and the rattling fanbelt. I'm hugely thankful for all the info here.

Now yesterday I found out that the aftermarket radio was budget in fairly clumsily- spades were just wedged into the connector ready to fall out any time. Also, the speaker wiring was faulty and the magnet had come loose of the RH front speaker

Anyway, with my Haynes manual in hand I decided to fix it but couldn't be bothered disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Sure enough I made a wrong connection whilst tinkering with the radio. Immediately the alarm went of as I didn't have the black key in the 'on' position (oooh, the knowledge of hindsight). I managed to kill the sound by turning the small round key on the alarm unit to the horizontal position but the car remained immobilised.

Frustrated with myself, I read up on all of the alarm/immobiliser topics and found the 'disconnect battery - black key in 'on' position - reconnect battery' method and decided to wait for daylight before trying it.

Today I opened the car and just for the fun of it tried starting. The starter motor came on without a problem! But the engine did not start. I then checked all the fuses and oh wonder, F33 was blown. That did not surprise me, since that is the radio fuse. Why the engine doesn't start is a mystery. Anyhow I replaced F33 and after 10 reconnecting-the-battery attempts the engine started. Yaaay!

Drove around for about an hour in case the fuse blown and the starting attempts had drained the battery. After coming back I switched off the engine and tried to lock the car with the fob - alarm went off (silent though, key still in horzontal position) and immobilised again. Turning the key to 'on' twice (and more) doesn't help.

I have tried resyncing my fob but that just spikes the alarm again. If I try and turn on anything (lights, door locks) the alarm spikes. If I move around in the car, the alarm spikes (motion sensor I'm sure). The lights go off after a timeout but of course the car won't start.

I'm now getting desperate - I had planned taking the car in for service tomorrow which is kinda hard with the immobiliser spiked. I just want it to open remotely and not be immobilized, I could care less about the alarm. Should I return the alarm to the vertical setting? Did I miss anything else?

I really hope you can help me out. I bought a Toyota to be trouble free...

Hi there.

I've discovered this forum shortly after buying my 1995 Carina E 1.8 GLI (7A-FE). Many of the topics describe issues I've encountered such as the injectors and the rattling fanbelt. I'm hugely thankful for all the info here.

Now yesterday I found out that the aftermarket radio was budget in fairly clumsily- spades were just wedged into the connector ready to fall out any time. Also, the speaker wiring was faulty and the magnet had come loose of the RH front speaker

Anyway, with my Haynes manual in hand I decided to fix it but couldn't be bothered disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Sure enough I made a wrong connection whilst tinkering with the radio. Immediately the alarm went of as I didn't have the black key in the 'on' position (oooh, the knowledge of hindsight). I managed to kill the sound by turning the small round key on the alarm unit to the horizontal position but the car remained immobilised.

Frustrated with myself, I read up on all of the alarm/immobiliser topics and found the 'disconnect battery - black key in 'on' position - reconnect battery' method and decided to wait for daylight before trying it.

Today I opened the car and just for the fun of it tried starting. The starter motor came on without a problem! But the engine did not start. I then checked all the fuses and oh wonder, F33 was blown. That did not surprise me, since that is the radio fuse. Why the engine doesn't start is a mystery. Anyhow I replaced F33 and after 10 reconnecting-the-battery attempts the engine started. Yaaay!

Drove around for about an hour in case the fuse blown and the starting attempts had drained the battery. After coming back I switched off the engine and tried to lock the car with the fob - alarm went off (silent though, key still in horzontal position) and immobilised again. Turning the key to 'on' twice (and more) doesn't help.

I have tried resyncing my fob but that just spikes the alarm again. If I try and turn on anything (lights, door locks) the alarm spikes. If I move around in the car, the alarm spikes (motion sensor I'm sure). The lights go off after a timeout but of course the car won't start.

I'm now getting desperate - I had planned taking the car in for service tomorrow which is kinda hard with the immobiliser spiked. I just want it to open remotely and not be immobilized, I could care less about the alarm. Should I return the alarm to the vertical setting? Did I miss anything else?

I really hope you can help me out. I bought a Toyota to be trouble free...

the alarm system needs resetting.......put the alarm back in its original setting and do the following

 Disconnect Negative battery terminal leaving positive connected.

(Make sure drivers window is down as car may lock)

 Put key in ignition and turn on, Leave on.

 Reconnect battery terminal.

 Switch off ignition and remove key.

 Press black button and hold for ten seconds.

 Alarm should work.

[ultranalog]

Thanks for your reply.

1 Disconnect Negative battery terminal leaving positive connected.

(Make sure drivers window is down as car may lock)

2 Put key in ignition and turn on, Leave on.

3 Reconnect battery terminal.

4 Switch off ignition and remove key.

5 Press black button and hold for ten seconds.

6 Alarm should work.

Steps 1, 2 and 3 work. Sometimes the starter motor turns over and one in every 10 attempts the car starts. But step 4, when turning off the ignition, the alarm spikes again. So I don't even get around to steps 5 and 6...

[dwayne62]

yeah i should have mentioned that all hell breaks loose on step 4 but pressing the black button for 10 seconds resets everything you just have to put up with the noise for a short time

[ultranalog]

Took it to a dealer today and he says the alarm ECU is blown. According to him, before I take the Battery clip off I should have pulled a fuse.

a. Is this possible / likely?

My options according to him are to replace the alarm ECU, or to disable the alarm altogether which takes two hours of labor. I'd have to source my own ECU since it's not stocked anymore

b. Anyone know of a source for alarm ECUs?

c. Can I disable the alarm myself without shelving off 190 quid for labor?

Thanks!

[Blue Biker]

Hi ultranalog, this is a bit off topic but I wonder if you can be of some help to me. I'm having a problem with coughing and sputtering which occurs only when the car (1995 Carina E GLX 1.8) is warm. I note that you had injector probs causing similar symptoms. Did you simply replace the faulty injector(s) to cure the problem?

Thanks

John

[kenbo3667]

Thanks for your reply.

1 Disconnect Negative battery terminal leaving positive connected.

(Make sure drivers window is down as car may lock)

2 Put key in ignition and turn on, Leave on.

3 Reconnect battery terminal.

4 Switch off ignition and remove key.

5 Press black button and hold for ten seconds.

6 Alarm should work.

Steps 1, 2 and 3 work. Sometimes the starter motor turns over and one in every 10 attempts the car starts. But step 4, when turning off the ignition, the alarm spikes again. So I don't even get around to steps 5 and 6...

i know you wrote this a couple years ago; but it just kept me from having a totally stuck car... Thank you for your advice and please never doubt the positive affect that your willingness to help has on those you might never have thought you'd be helping... :-)

[Kane]

hi ,

i kindve have the same problem . . i have a 00 1.6 avensis and i put the ecu back in it today and the engine is turning fine but wont start . . i done the paperclip test and the codee 2299 keeps coming up . . i rang the toyota dealers and the said its the code for the immobiliser . . so i now have an immobiliser problem . . does any1 have any suggestions ??

cheers