Celica Gen7 Style Pack Sub

[Gerberman]

Hi

Just wondered if anybody knows if the sub you get with the Celica gen7 style pack can be used with any other head unit or can the cableing be used with a different sub.

Thanks

Mike

[Gerberman]

Hi

Just wondered if anybody knows if the sub you get with the Celica gen7 style pack can be used with any other head unit or can the cableing be used with a different sub.

Thanks

Mike

MMM this is the quietest audio section I`ve ever seen

[DefiantFrog]

No idea fella! What kind of cabling does it have on it?

If its just RCA (phono stylee), then theoretically, yeah. How does the G7 Toyota Sub get its power? I assume its powered...?

[Gerberman]

No idea fella! What kind of cabling does it have on it?

If its just RCA (phono stylee), then theoretically, yeah. How does the G7 Toyota Sub get its power? I assume its powered...?

Just replaced the head unit and it appears it uses a plug like a normal iso plug to power and send the signal to the sub, so I had to just leave it off because only the toyota head unit has the correct socket, if someone knows the wiring for the plug I suppose its possable to replace it with standard connectors, prob easier to just replace it, I just want a bit more bass kick to the sound not the booming bass the Nova lads have. Any recomendations for a powered sub?

Thanks for the reply by the way I`d given up hope :D

[DefiantFrog]

No probs! I know what you mean - it is a bit quiet in here at times...

Umm, recommendations. I personally love Pioneer gear - good quality at an acceptable and justifyable price. Others love Alpine. Others love JBL... the list goes on, and it all comes down to personal preference. I think the only good rule of thumb is once you've got a speaker brand in your car, stick with the brand and the quality level from that brand's range, make sure you aren't exceeding the wattage that speaker can cope with and you can't go far wrong.

For a small amount of bass, you're probably going to be looking for a 10" single speaker, possibly a 12", and 400W Peak will be more than adequate. I've never looked in to the 'all-in-one' setups, so can't really advise on anything specific.

I run 2x Pioneer 10" in a custom designed and built enclosure (designed and built by me for loooowwww bass frequency response, and no unwanted box vibration), along with a £120 800W Peak Amp (American Legacy), running each speaker at 400W Peak, which is their maximum load. Thats set to half volume on the amp, and at around half volume on the stereo (does that make approx 1/4 full volume?) it shakes the seats / mirrors at times, and I haven't found a bass frequency in a track that it can't belt out when I want it to!

Hope thats enough to get you going, and sorry to be vague on the specifics you want... :(

[Gerberman]

No probs! I know what you mean - it is a bit quiet in here at times...

Umm, recommendations. I personally love Pioneer gear - good quality at an acceptable and justifyable price. Others love Alpine. Others love JBL... the list goes on, and it all comes down to personal preference. I think the only good rule of thumb is once you've got a speaker brand in your car, stick with the brand and the quality level from that brand's range, make sure you aren't exceeding the wattage that speaker can cope with and you can't go far wrong.

For a small amount of bass, you're probably going to be looking for a 10" single speaker, possibly a 12", and 400W Peak will be more than adequate. I've never looked in to the 'all-in-one' setups, so can't really advise on anything specific.

I run 2x Pioneer 10" in a custom designed and built enclosure (designed and built by me for loooowwww bass frequency response, and no unwanted box vibration), along with a £120 800W Peak Amp (American Legacy), running each speaker at 400W Peak, which is their maximum load. Thats set to half volume on the amp, and at around half volume on the stereo (does that make approx 1/4 full volume?) it shakes the seats / mirrors at times, and I haven't found a bass frequency in a track that it can't belt out when I want it to!

Hope thats enough to get you going, and sorry to be vague on the specifics you want... :(

Thanks for that, thinking about changing the stock Speakers while I`m doing the sub (is it worth it ? can you tell much difference?) looked at your install... very nice but I need something small that leaves enough boot space for the weeklyfamily shop, Just a quick question can you link the sub power to the headunit power if its not too powerful or do you have to wire to Battery, can you just wire negative to boot floor.

Thanks

Mike

[DefiantFrog]

If you've got the cash, it is definately worth a full speaker upgrade while you've got the car interior in bits. While initial set up will appear disappointing, the new Speakers take a few weeks (maybe months) to bed in properly. Once they're bedded in, it'll make a huge difference. The annoying thing is, you may not necessarily notice it too much because of the amount of time taken for the bedding in process and you getting used to the sound as it develops, but if you go back to stock you'll realise how truely rubbish they are!

Yeah, my box is excessively big - its the pay off I have for what I wanted from my box. I can get a weekly shop in the boot as well, but thats just for me and the missus. You'll definately be able to find something smaller that fits your requirements.

I'm not aware of a headunit that will provide appropriate power to run a sub at required volumes for you to notice it - the only way to go is either all-in-one, or seperate Amp and Sub(s). You'd run power from the Battery, with at least one in-line fuse, preferably in the engine bay to save on cabin fires with bad electrics! I have another inline fuse in the boot in a distribution board for power to additional items if I want them. You'll also need to wire up the 'remote' cable, which is a very small electrical feed from stereo to amp / sub-amp-combo to turn the sub on when the stereo is on, and off when the stereo is off. It's designed to stop Battery drain by an Amp thats on but not in use.

My -ve goes back to my Battery, to save me having to find a place in the boot to ground it - I figured as I was running one cable, I may as well run 2! This'll only work for subs though, if you try the same trick with an amp going to higher frequency Speakers, you'll hear a wierd noise that coincides with engine revs. Its all to do with grounding...

[Gerberman]

If you've got the cash, it is definately worth a full speaker upgrade while you've got the car interior in bits. While initial set up will appear disappointing, the new speakers take a few weeks (maybe months) to bed in properly. Once they're bedded in, it'll make a huge difference. The annoying thing is, you may not necessarily notice it too much because of the amount of time taken for the bedding in process and you getting used to the sound as it develops, but if you go back to stock you'll realise how truely rubbish they are!

Yeah, my box is excessively big - its the pay off I have for what I wanted from my box. I can get a weekly shop in the boot as well, but thats just for me and the missus. You'll definately be able to find something smaller that fits your requirements.

I'm not aware of a headunit that will provide appropriate power to run a sub at required volumes for you to notice it - the only way to go is either all-in-one, or seperate Amp and Sub(s). You'd run power from the battery, with at least one in-line fuse, preferably in the engine bay to save on cabin fires with bad electrics! I have another inline fuse in the boot in a distribution board for power to additional items if I want them. You'll also need to wire up the 'remote' cable, which is a very small electrical feed from stereo to amp / sub-amp-combo to turn the sub on when the stereo is on, and off when the stereo is off. It's designed to stop battery drain by an Amp thats on but not in use.

My -ve goes back to my battery, to save me having to find a place in the boot to ground it - I figured as I was running one cable, I may as well run 2! This'll only work for subs though, if you try the same trick with an amp going to higher frequency speakers, you'll hear a wierd noise that coincides with engine revs. Its all to do with grounding...

Thanks you`ve been a great help, looks like I better start searching for speaker install tutorials.... need info on how to get door cards off and a bit of info on wireing the sub up.

Cheers M8

Mike

[powdavis]

No probs! I know what you mean - it is a bit quiet in here at times...

Umm, recommendations. I personally love Pioneer gear - good quality at an acceptable and justifyable price. Others love Alpine. Others love JBL... the list goes on, and it all comes down to personal preference. I think the only good rule of thumb is once you've got a speaker brand in your car, stick with the brand and the quality level from that brand's range, make sure you aren't exceeding the wattage that speaker can cope with and you can't go far wrong.

For a small amount of bass, you're probably going to be looking for a 10" single speaker, possibly a 12", and 400W Peak will be more than adequate. I've never looked in to the 'all-in-one' setups, so can't really advise on anything specific.

I run 2x Pioneer 10" in a custom designed and built enclosure Autopartswarehouse (designed and built by me for loooowwww bass frequency response, and no unwanted box vibration), along with a £120 800W Peak Amp (American Legacy), running each speaker at 400W Peak, which is their maximum load. Thats set to half volume on the amp, and at around half volume on the stereo (does that make approx 1/4 full volume?) it shakes the seats / mirrors at times, and I haven't found a bass frequency in a track that it can't belt out when I want it to!

Hope thats enough to get you going, and sorry to be vague on the specifics you want... :(

Pioneer? really? I've had a bit of trouble fitting the system on my car... but probably the set i got wasn't compatible with my car... I prefer Bose' any day.