Brakes And Discs...easy Job?

[jonnyspin]

I've just had the 4th year service done on the car, and apart from being charged for a new polen filter, that I would have thought was part of the service, they say I need new pads and discs all round + fluid. Total #730 ish.

Apart from not being able to aford over a grand (including the service), I decided to shop around.

My local indie will do the same job for #450...

..but it got me thinking...maybe I should do the job myself. Can't be that difficult, can it?

And how much are the parts?

thanks for any advice

[Parts-King]

Anchorman has run a couple of excellent "How to" workshops on this very subject

ANCHORMANS FITTING GUIDE

Kingo

[IanXT4]

Back in June I had my 4 year service only to be informed by the service rep that my front brake pads were 70% worn and required replacing along with a fluid change. I decided to do the fluid myself and at the same time check the pad wear. I know some garages are "very cautious" as they only see the car every year !!

Well I was quite surprised when I found that the front pads had 7mm left (they are 12mm new), to me that's about 45% worn :-)

So assuming you are not getting any brake vibrations or other symptoms indicating brake problems, I would take the wheels off and check the pad (& disk thickness if the pads are very worn). Or get your local independent garage give you a second opinion.

If they are worn, assuming you know one end of a spanner from the other its dead easy to do the pads, disks and brake fluid especially with Anchormans guides.

Regards

Ian

[Teddylicious]

Give it a whirl, with the help of a haynes manual... or something a bit more useful such as the tips above, it'll be a doddle.

Best of luck, let us know how you get on.

[bothwell_buyer]

normally the inside of the disc will give you the minimum thickness of the disc - cast into the inside of the bell of the disc. The pads are simple and just look at any of the posts for the minimum thickness.

Discs cost whatever new - you can go down the track of EBc or whatever and green stuff pads; rotor discs and I could go on. Theres been a strong argument that Toyota discs and pads are the best. My experience is that the pads might be good but the discs are crap and the calipers the worst I've ever come across. Even my Humber hawk has better calipers! And they are 46 years old!!!!!

Whatever

A pair of discs if you really need them will cost £160+

Pads around £80

Whats yer mileage??

I'd certainly change the fluid....but then that won't cost a bomb - just time.

The calipers are easy to swing back to release the disc to allow you to check. I've been stung numerous times in the past over discs and the need to replace them...

If you do need parts, get in touch with Kingo who will give you best price on Toyota gear.

[raverchris]

Anchorman's guide looks excellent - wish I had it when I did mine.

I replaced the front discs and pads - the only problem I had was with the stainless steel pad guides. They got a bit buckled when I removed them and could not get any more quickly. I managed to straighten them. The pads smelt awful for a while on braking - quite worrying, but didn't feel that hot. I took the whole lot apart again to make sure the pads were moving the guides OK and I had put everything in correctly.

I think I had, and eventually everything was OK.

I will try and buy a new set of guides - ready for next time.

PS. I used a plastic syringe to remove some of the brake fluid from the reservoir and that worked OK.

[Parts-King]

Parts come to about £159 plus some labour, about 1.5 hours

I reckon the total would be nearer £225 fitted if you bought the parts from Kingo and had them fitted locally. Add a bit more to have the fluid changed too, but another 25 minuets labour max

Kingo

[anchorman]

Anchorman's guide looks excellent - wish I had it when I did mine.

I replaced the front discs and pads - the only problem I had was with the stainless steel pad guides. They got a bit buckled when I removed them and could not get any more quickly. I managed to straighten them. The pads smelt awful for a while on braking - quite worrying, but didn't feel that hot. I took the whole lot apart again to make sure the pads were moving the guides OK and I had put everything in correctly.

I think I had, and eventually everything was OK.

I will try and buy a new set of guides - ready for next time.

PS. I used a plastic syringe to remove some of the brake fluid from the reservoir and that worked OK.

Chris

Kingo will post you some of those guides if you pm him. They are a bit fiddly and when worn can move inwards and contact the disc. They sound like finger nails on a chalk board when they do so perhaps a new set are a good investment. The top clip on the piston side can be a bit fiddly and is made worse by the fact you can't see it. If you put the pad in the bottom first then use a small screwdriver to ease the clip at the top over the "ear" of the pad it helps. Borrow wifey's make up mirror and you will see what I mean!!!

Cheers

[jonnyspin]

big thanks for all these comments.

Is there a quick any easy way to tell if the discs really are worn? I suspect that they actually have plenty left in them.

I'm tempted just to change the pads. And fluid - but I'd get the local garage to do that.

[anchorman]

The outside of the disc will be corroded and will always give an impression of a lip. You should measure the disc for minimum thickness about 1 inch (25mm) in from the edge. Providing it is within limits i.e. more than 23 mm thick, and the surface is fairly flat you can leave them but just remove the rusty lip with a course file to stop it from squealing on the new pads.

However, don't be put off changing the discs yourself as once you have the pads out it is only a few more minutes to take the caliper off and the disc just taps off.