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RupertRAV4

4.2 D4d Scv Valve Replacement

114 posts in this topic

I think your right there, those little buggers will not want to fail again if they know whats good for them.

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thanks anchorman

my error code is p1228 and i have done the checks to rule out the pump so am left with the valves. i hve got the valves out so i suppose i will have to go for it and buy a new pair. fingers crossed!

Another test i did was to put power to the terminals on the valves, a clicking sound should be heard. one of my valves clicked away nicley the other didnt but after a few trys it started to click. since it was an easy job getting them out i put them back in and went for a test drive, all was good! Untill now, the problem has just started again this time i will put in new ones. the quick fix lasted around six weeks and it takes less than an hour to swap them out so it was worth it.

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There is no bleed bolt on this system. The HP fuel pump is primed by simply pumping that black plunger on top of the filter until it goes stiff.

Hi Guys,

After trying all recommendation there was no success. so i decided to take out SCV valves to have a look. Once SCV valves were out, i tested these by giving 12 V from battery and there was some vibration. then i fitted these valves back and engine was started at first try. it was unbelievable!

However during this operation i manage to blow ALT fuse( 120 V) and most of components are without power. Hope to get it from Toyota.

I thank you all from your support in this forum.

Imran

Ahha just seen the post from ahmad1565

looks like we came up with the same solution, are your valves still working?

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Best to pm him Turps :thumbsup:

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Hi. I'm a new member and ineed some valves for my rav4

Part no is 04221-27011

How do I buy them? Thanks. Dave

SCV Valves can be purchased from Kingo!

PM me for details

Kingo :thumbsup:

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Gimme a call on 01244 821031

Kingo :thumbsup:

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Just to record thanks and appreciation for Rupert's full guidance on the subject of SCVs, posted 6 Oct 2008.

I had experienced an intermittent fault with loss of power when starting from cold, it was like running on 3 cylinders, after about 1 mile the car run as normal. The engine warning light had come on but after numerous starts during the day it stopped coming on.

The diagnostic check brought up code p0627.

A pair of new valves were purchased direct from Toyota for £260 and fitted following Ruperts instructions.

Pleased to report car running well with no further problems over the last 6 months/5000 miles.

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Hi

I've just bought another Rav from Scotland over the weekend it drove back brilliantly.

Anyway this morning when I started it, it was fine then as I got onto the motorway and went into 5th at about 50 mph (it felt like it was running on 3 cylinders like a petrol engine) I changed down to 4th and it felt a little better and then was fine all the way tomanchester and back. Then this evening it felt like it was missing on tick over and then after a few revs it was fine and drove fine since

Is it a possibility it could be the SCV valves on mine too

Looking at the history the DMF has been replaced by Toyota and The car had been really well looked after parts replaced as and when needed. Tbe mileage is 109000

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks in advance

Ash

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It usually causes low power rather than a misfire Ash. Start with the fuel filter as that can definitely cause a miss. You could also try some diesel injector cleaner and stay well away from supermarket weasel pee and use branded, preferably high grade fuel.

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Thanks Anchorman

It is slow up hills but this morning it was fine.

I'll try and explain a bit better on a straight run its fine but if you change into 4th or 5th its like sort of missing change down its fine yet other days it's fine

When you say decent fuel do you mean something like from Shell or BP. I do actually use Tescos and always have done

For the mrs vvti. We only bought the diesel over the weekend so will start fuelling it with non supermarket diesel.

I believe the previous owner was using Morrisons as they're was receipts in glove box from there

I'll keep you updated.

As always really appreciate your input

Ash

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In the meantime you can add a bottle of injector cleaner.

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Any particular injector cleaner as there is a lot of them out there

Thanks again

Ash

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STP , Redex or one of the popular brands are all OK but you want one specifically for diesel engines.

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Filled up with a full tank today and poured a bottle of stp in too. Do I need to take it for a good run or just let it tick over.

Thanks

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In a common rail it will be round in minutes. Perhaps around the block won't harm but no need to go far (unless you are looking for an excuse!! :rolleyes: )

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Taken it for a long drive seems better, however it's still doing it but not as worse.

Checked the service book and it's due a service. Will give kingo a call on Wednesday and get all the filters etc and give it a service and see what happens

I can't see what else it could be see what happens after its service next week

Oh before I forget dropped the other Rav off to a friend and managed to get the bracelet back thank god so it will be a happy Christmas after all

Happy Christmas and all Tbe best for 2012

Ash

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Any particular injector cleaner as there is a lot of them out there

Thanks again

Ash

Forte is another one to look out for. Just avoid anything with PTFE in it. Best I've found is BG244 from powerenhancers :thumbsup:

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Hi all, happy Xmas & new year!

Had a bit of a drama yesterday taking the kids to see grandma in Wales! I was travelling along the A55 doing a constant 70mph when all of a sudden my 54 plate D4D 2.0 Rav4 lost power and went into 'limp home' mode (I think) I pulled onto the chevroned area of a junction and observed that the 'check engine' light was on and very briefly the VSC/TRC! I pulled (slowly) into the service area and switched off the engine, by the time I had dealt with the kids about 25 minutes had passed so I tried to start her up, she started first time no problem but the 'check engine' light remained on! I cracked onto Abergele and after a short stay returned to Warrington with absolute no problem at all even though the light remained on!

I have only had the car about 3+ months and have had no problem at all just the the odd hold back on acceleration now and again! (a slight pause in pick up like the auto kick down effect)

Before I left for Wales I filled up the tank and put a quarter of a bottle of Diesel Redex in (the first time for this car but I've always put it into previous petrol cars)

Reading these threads on this excellent forum I have come to the conclusion that it may be these 'SCV' valves? Could me putting the correct amount of Redex into a full tank have done anything to the engine or was this just co-incidence?

This morning I took a tip mentioned on this forum and disconnected the negative cable off the battery to cancel out the 'check engine' light, this did indeed work!

I have ordered a MS309 code reader but that will take at least a week to come!

Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated!

TIA, Steve

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Out of curiosity is it worth investing in a code reader? We have two Rav's at the moment first is the 2.0 VVTi and Tbe second is a D4D both ate 2002 models. Is there any particular code reader needed or is it one fits all

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Out of curiosity is it worth investing in a code reader? We have two Rav's at the moment first is the 2.0 VVTi and Tbe second is a D4D both ate 2002 models. Is there any particular code reader needed or is it one fits all

Hi, I think someone else could probably answer this better than me but in my case and after research I know that the MS309 which I purchased covers D4D engines from 2004 onwards, I think diesels before this year will need to go into a Toyota dealer for a code read?

To relay what others have written, I am paying £27 for a reader to read a code and diagnose a problem that would cost probably £55 plus for the same info from a dealer!!

I am going to keep this car hopefully for another 4-5 years so in my case it will probably well pay for itself over time plus the fact, and I must be honest I am a bit of a 'gadget man'!!

I will try and add a link to the one I have purchased!

http://www.autoobd2.co.uk/wholesale/maxiscan-ms309-obd2-eobd-scanner-1209.html

Steve

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Use a code reader wherever possible but for early models the code can be retrieved by shorting out the OBD socket but this should only be done if you know what you are doing.

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Hi all, happy Xmas & new year!

Had a bit of a drama yesterday taking the kids to see grandma in Wales! I was travelling along the A55 doing a constant 70mph when all of a sudden my 54 plate D4D 2.0 Rav4 lost power and went into 'limp home' mode (I think) I pulled onto the chevroned area of a junction and observed that the 'check engine' light was on and very briefly the VSC/TRC! I pulled (slowly) into the service area and switched off the engine, by the time I had dealt with the kids about 25 minutes had passed so I tried to start her up, she started first time no problem but the 'check engine' light remained on! I cracked onto Abergele and after a short stay returned to Warrington with absolute no problem at all even though the light remained on!

I have only had the car about 3+ months and have had no problem at all just the the odd hold back on acceleration now and again! (a slight pause in pick up like the auto kick down effect)

Before I left for Wales I filled up the tank and put a quarter of a bottle of Diesel Redex in (the first time for this car but I've always put it into previous petrol cars)

Reading these threads on this excellent forum I have come to the conclusion that it may be these 'SCV' valves? Could me putting the correct amount of Redex into a full tank have done anything to the engine or was this just co-incidence?

This morning I took a tip mentioned on this forum and disconnected the negative cable off the battery to cancel out the 'check engine' light, this did indeed work!

I have ordered a MS309 code reader but that will take at least a week to come!

Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated!

TIA, Steve

Hi all, If I get confirmation that my problem is indeed the 'SCV valves' then in the new year I am going to source a set from either 'Kingo' or 'PF Jones' in Manchester or indeed elsewere if a good deal is offered!

I intend to fit them myself and thanks to 'RupertRAV4' I will follow his excellent photographic guide and other peoples input off this post! Just a couple of immidiate questions jump out:

1/ Those allan type bolts that hold the valves in are they standard Allan key fitting or a specialist size/tool?

2/ Can WD40 be used to aid in unscrewing them and why are there no gaskets between the metal to metal surfaces?

3/ Is there a 'torque' setting when you tighten them back up?

Regards, Steve

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Its an allen key - nothing special. WD 40 won't help but you could use some light oil going back. The valves are sealed by O rings so make sure everything is surgically clean and you can smear some clea oil on the O rings before inserting them. Nip them up tight by hand - they don't need to be super tight, the main thing is to try and get them equally tight.

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Its an allen key - nothing special. WD 40 won't help but you could use some light oil going back. The valves are sealed by O rings so make sure everything is surgically clean and you can smear some clea oil on the O rings before inserting them. Nip them up tight by hand - they don't need to be super tight, the main thing is to try and get them equally tight.

Thanx anchorman for that info! I'm quite excited about giving it a go and fitting them in a couple of weeks but I must admit to feeling a bit apprehensive also! (if that makes any sense?)

At the moment the trouble seems to have gone and the car is running OK? Is it safe to carry on using the car until I do the job? To be honest I'm still not 100% sure it is the SCV valves until I get the MS309 code reader although all the symptoms spoken of on here are pointing that way?

Regards, Steve

PS; I also watched this vid on youtube which looks helpful?

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I thought it was a good video until I saw the hammer. He should save that for verking on the wolwo or even twot the ice cream van. DO NOT hit the SCVs, that is the best way to waste £200 worth of pricision engineered components - sheesh :angry: . Twist them in by hand and gradually tighten the allen screws very evenly to draw them it. Make sure there isn't a spec of dirt in sight.

Did he grunt a bit when verking???

Did he say F**k when he droped the hallern key?????

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